Ideas....
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/253217-ikea-blanda-speaker-driver.html#post4011946
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=i...X&ved=0ahUKEwjx1_P_yKLOAhUmKcAKHbQEBD8QsAQIKQ
...not so much the concept - as the realisation of it. Clues to the construction in many of the articles.
HTH
J.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/253217-ikea-blanda-speaker-driver.html#post4011946
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=i...X&ved=0ahUKEwjx1_P_yKLOAhUmKcAKHbQEBD8QsAQIKQ
...not so much the concept - as the realisation of it. Clues to the construction in many of the articles.
HTH
J.
Well user kingfisher did it with the use of a Jasper jig and user ErikW did it with the use of an oversized template.
If anybody else has any tips/hints, I'm glad to know.
@Jerms: Most of the builds I find online or flush mounted ones, but when I saw the insert I really wanna try it for my project.
If anybody else has any tips/hints, I'm glad to know.
@Jerms: Most of the builds I find online or flush mounted ones, but when I saw the insert I really wanna try it for my project.
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Do I understand your question correctly, in that you wonder how the rebate was cut after the hole? If that's the issue, I'd use a router table, with a template bit. The bit would have the bearing at the 'top', and would be a smaller diameter than the the cutter. It would take a bit of playing with the bearing size, and its height above the table to get the correct rebate, but it's safe and doable.
Well right now I've done a flush mounted one, this is just a test build with an old speaker set from the PC. I just wanted to see if I can make it, cost, design,... and when I saw a recessed one, I knew I will have to try it when I get the new speakers (just wished somebody would sugest me some in my other threat)
(also it gives that extra $$$ look ;-)
(also it gives that extra $$$ look ;-)
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Maybe a better word is recess.
For the second time, the feature you are asking about is called a counterbore. Why not look it up since you don't believe me?
@Andersonix: It's not that I don't want to believe you, because I looked up couterbore. But when you open google you receive these images, counterbore or countersink are things I know and I even used a counterbore on this project for the foot where a screw goes into and a soft padding to hide the screw.
It's just not a term I would use for my project, as english isn't my native language. I don't see a counterbore as that big a hole, because I knew it more as a means to hide screws or go lower into wood,...
I'm looking for tips, hints from people who did it
It's just not a term I would use for my project, as english isn't my native language. I don't see a counterbore as that big a hole, because I knew it more as a means to hide screws or go lower into wood,...
I'm looking for tips, hints from people who did it
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@Andersonix: It's not that I don't want to believe you, because I looked up couterbore. But when you open google you receive these images, counterbore or countersink are things I know and I even used a counterbore on this project for the foot where a screw goes into and a soft padding to hide the screw.
It's just not a term I would use for my project, as english isn't my native language. I don't see a counterbore as that big a hole, because I knew it more as a means to hide screws or go lower into wood,...
I'm looking for tips, hints from people who did it
I think the ones that are going to show, have shown what they will. You have to dig through Ikeahackers and Google images to get further info.
Well I tried a version of it this weekend.
I made a ring to sit inside the bowl, glued it with pu expanding woodglue...then with the use of woodfiller for the small space because of the holedrill.
When I have my new speakers its gonna be a tighter fit, but the process stays the same. So if anybody wants the look, this is another option to go about it.
I made a ring to sit inside the bowl, glued it with pu expanding woodglue...then with the use of woodfiller for the small space because of the holedrill.
When I have my new speakers its gonna be a tighter fit, but the process stays the same. So if anybody wants the look, this is another option to go about it.
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So here is my jig that I used to create the couterbore in the bowls...
Warning: when I was almost full circle in the second bowl, the remaining wood broke from the jig. So I had to touch it up with some paste made from glue and bamboe dust. But a steady hand and patience and then knowing that this could happen was all I needed for the remaining two.
I still had to use my rings after routing the circle because I ended up with round 2mm of wood, so I played it save and added some for the screws.
I made the hole bigger in the rings for these speakers so they can breath more easily, but just enough for the screws to bite into. Didn't chamfer it, because I forgot to do it (posting this and seeing your comment again made me realise that). But I can still do it because I noticed today that my screws for the speakers are not level.
So for anybody that wants to do a similar project, this is another jig
Warning: when I was almost full circle in the second bowl, the remaining wood broke from the jig. So I had to touch it up with some paste made from glue and bamboe dust. But a steady hand and patience and then knowing that this could happen was all I needed for the remaining two.
I still had to use my rings after routing the circle because I ended up with round 2mm of wood, so I played it save and added some for the screws.
I made the hole bigger in the rings for these speakers so they can breath more easily, but just enough for the screws to bite into. Didn't chamfer it, because I forgot to do it (posting this and seeing your comment again made me realise that). But I can still do it because I noticed today that my screws for the speakers are not level.
So for anybody that wants to do a similar project, this is another jig
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