Now this may sound a weird way of doing things so first ask yourself, "do I normally see the front of the speaker, or the rear?".
My suggestion is to make the back of the cabinet removable so that you can insert or remove the drivers from behind the front baffle.
This is what I did on my open baffles but with the above proviso, the principle can be applied to box speakers too.
This brings several advantages. You don't need to screw or bolt the driver in place, it can be secured with wedges of Indian rubber or suchlike.
So you don't see the rim of the driver or the fixings.
The front baffle can actually be cut larger than the rim of the driver to absolutely minimise any effect on the rear wave.
My suggestion is to make the back of the cabinet removable so that you can insert or remove the drivers from behind the front baffle.
This is what I did on my open baffles but with the above proviso, the principle can be applied to box speakers too.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This brings several advantages. You don't need to screw or bolt the driver in place, it can be secured with wedges of Indian rubber or suchlike.
So you don't see the rim of the driver or the fixings.
The front baffle can actually be cut larger than the rim of the driver to absolutely minimise any effect on the rear wave.
Since this is a discussion on mounting drivers...i have a quick question..
i've chosen it this way (see pic) out of sheer necessity..
can any body comment on this..
The clamps, are made of MDF and will be glued to the inner ring in the final version, The inner ring will be press fitted on the pipe.
The fit is very strong. I have to spend huge effort disassembling them than putting it all together. I also plan to provide a gasket around the driver flange for three reasons 1) to preventing airleaks 2)a better fit and 3) isolating and damping any resonances...
Does some one have an experience with this type of mounting..
Please let me know what you think. Drawbacks and how it can be improved..!
see further details here
Thanx
ajju
i've chosen it this way (see pic) out of sheer necessity..
can any body comment on this..
The clamps, are made of MDF and will be glued to the inner ring in the final version, The inner ring will be press fitted on the pipe.
The fit is very strong. I have to spend huge effort disassembling them than putting it all together. I also plan to provide a gasket around the driver flange for three reasons 1) to preventing airleaks 2)a better fit and 3) isolating and damping any resonances...
Does some one have an experience with this type of mounting..
Please let me know what you think. Drawbacks and how it can be improved..!
see further details here
Thanx
ajju
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One thing I also do is put a small bead of silicone around the woofer cutout before I install the speaker. Make sure it's the soft (easy to remove) kind that can be pulled away when needed.
I don't know if it helps with mechanical stabilization, but it definitely acts as a gasket to seal any/all air leaks.
I don't know if it helps with mechanical stabilization, but it definitely acts as a gasket to seal any/all air leaks.
asauer said:One thing I also do is put a small bead of silicone around the woofer cutout before I install the speaker. Make sure it's the soft (easy to remove) kind that can be pulled away when needed.
I don't know if it helps with mechanical stabilization, but it definitely acts as a gasket to seal any/all air leaks.
If you use silicone to seal speaker cabs, it must be fully cured before closing it up. Acetic acid is released as silicone cures. If it is inside the enclosure it will settle on the metal it finds, your drivers. It's a nasty little acid, as you can tell by the smell. If you put thick amounts it takes much more than the 24hrs they say to fully cure.
Don't find this out the hard way like I did.
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