So for this discussion, are you thinking something like three (or 4) RS-180's OB below an ESL panel or something like that? If they are OB, I guess you would need a sub (maybe an 18" in an H-frame) for the bottom. I'm talking through my hat here because I have no idea. One MiniDSP could handle two 3-ways for xo. If the efficiiencies were fairly high, how much power do you think would be required for each driver?
This is a strictly noob question, but what is the advantage of multi-drivers over a large single driver? I see it all the time, especially guitar cabs, but never quite understood why, if the total area is similar.
This is a strictly noob question, but what is the advantage of multi-drivers over a large single driver? I see it all the time, especially guitar cabs, but never quite understood why, if the total area is similar.
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Yes basicaly the 6X6.5' had an xmax of like 6mm and it produced sub frequency's effortlessly.
And the 8's I have ,have an xmax of 12mm and might be enough.
I have 8 of them but I dropped one and bent the frame and the another one I burned it up by mistake.
So I only have six.
You would be as suprised as a was with the 6x6.5's. jer
And the 8's I have ,have an xmax of 12mm and might be enough.
I have 8 of them but I dropped one and bent the frame and the another one I burned it up by mistake.
So I only have six.
You would be as suprised as a was with the 6x6.5's. jer
The only thing that was bad about that configuration was that it did produce some lobing at the higher frequency's but I didn't care as its only function was to be deep, loud and punchy for my bass guitar, and it did that very well.
But it had enough surface area and displacement (Xmax) to do the sub lows without the 18" just fine.
Like said it seemed to out performed the 18" because they had a higher frequency response than the 18".
The 18" had a surface area of 254 square inches and was in ported cabinet.
And the 6X6.5's had a surface area of 199 square inches in an open box.
I don't remember the xmax of the 18" but it wasn't that much and it was very slow and sluggish as it was just a sub. jer
But it had enough surface area and displacement (Xmax) to do the sub lows without the 18" just fine.
Like said it seemed to out performed the 18" because they had a higher frequency response than the 18".
The 18" had a surface area of 254 square inches and was in ported cabinet.
And the 6X6.5's had a surface area of 199 square inches in an open box.
I don't remember the xmax of the 18" but it wasn't that much and it was very slow and sluggish as it was just a sub. jer
If you are going to do an OB sub you need alot of surface area in order to keep the cone travel at a minimum.
The lower the cone travel the lower the THD the sub produces.
This is the main reason the 6X6.5" cabinet sounded better along with a lower group delay from being an OB as compared to a ported system.
I hope this makes a little more sense to you. jer
The lower the cone travel the lower the THD the sub produces.
This is the main reason the 6X6.5" cabinet sounded better along with a lower group delay from being an OB as compared to a ported system.
I hope this makes a little more sense to you. jer
Take a look at this website as they show alot of driver tests of alot of the dayton drivers as well as others with reviews as well.
It is an excellent site with priceless data on all types of drivers from different companys.
Enjoy! jer
P.S. the ZDT 3.5 is one of my favorite designs as it uses the dayton RS-180 as I had planned to do this build at one time but the key thing is the tested data on the woofers I will evnetualy get that driver for my 22" panels.
Zaph|Audio
It is an excellent site with priceless data on all types of drivers from different companys.
Enjoy! jer
P.S. the ZDT 3.5 is one of my favorite designs as it uses the dayton RS-180 as I had planned to do this build at one time but the key thing is the tested data on the woofers I will evnetualy get that driver for my 22" panels.
Zaph|Audio
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Okay. Since I've been planning to build an MJK-style OB over H-frame for the living room anyway, maybe what I'll do is go for an ESL panel (or mag) and see how it works with the 15" Eminence H-frame. If it seems promising, then I can see about making a more true and tight bass unit for the panel. I may even like the panel approach for hifi.
Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Can you steer me to some good references for planar designs to help me figure out what to buy or build? The ESL's sound a bit intimidating for me to build, but that's probably because I don;t know anything about them (at all).
I still think my Ibanez needs a tele mate., so cost is a factor, but I also don't want to build anything that will be disappointing, either.
Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Can you steer me to some good references for planar designs to help me figure out what to buy or build? The ESL's sound a bit intimidating for me to build, but that's probably because I don;t know anything about them (at all).
I still think my Ibanez needs a tele mate., so cost is a factor, but I also don't want to build anything that will be disappointing, either.
Have you seen CharlieM or Mavric's build?
I feel that this probably the most fool proof method.
Or you can use my method as it is a bit more labor intensve.
But it is the cheapest in materials.
Or I do like roger sanders tig wire design as well as it is very straight foward and simple method as well,
It all just depends on your own abililty's and skills.
If you have any experience building models the you shouldn't have any problems at all.
CharlieM helped Mavric as they live in the same area but I also helped them to guide him through the process with any information and questions that he needed.
So I don't see any problems at all as you have been doing alot of reseach your self.
So I will get a list of different builds for you to check out and all you need to do is pick a size.
I'm thinking a smaller one for a first build that way you can get to know the process and not worry about wasted material should someting do go wrong.
The reason I say this is because metal panels are not cheap but wire and window screen is. jer
But we will go over all of the that and I will PM you my number as it would be much easier to go over the finer details. jer
I feel that this probably the most fool proof method.
Or you can use my method as it is a bit more labor intensve.
But it is the cheapest in materials.
Or I do like roger sanders tig wire design as well as it is very straight foward and simple method as well,
It all just depends on your own abililty's and skills.
If you have any experience building models the you shouldn't have any problems at all.
CharlieM helped Mavric as they live in the same area but I also helped them to guide him through the process with any information and questions that he needed.
So I don't see any problems at all as you have been doing alot of reseach your self.
So I will get a list of different builds for you to check out and all you need to do is pick a size.
I'm thinking a smaller one for a first build that way you can get to know the process and not worry about wasted material should someting do go wrong.
The reason I say this is because metal panels are not cheap but wire and window screen is. jer
But we will go over all of the that and I will PM you my number as it would be much easier to go over the finer details. jer
I designed and built my window screen panels without any help from anyone and they worked the first time and still do since 2003.
My very first panels used a preforated metal and the worked the first time I fired them up once I had built a proper bias supply only they did not have the proper open area so their performance was mediocre.
So,I am probably more excited than you. jer
My very first panels used a preforated metal and the worked the first time I fired them up once I had built a proper bias supply only they did not have the proper open area so their performance was mediocre.
So,I am probably more excited than you. jer
That is why I audition speakers with the 3rd Movement of Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata, and with bass drum hits like Afterburner "Woke up with Wood". Those sforzando hits should make your hair move. They do when I play it (the Beethoven). An original piano version of Moussorgski's "Pictures at an Exhibition" should be great for auditioning speakers, too. Those sfz hits in "The Hut of Baba-Yaga" and "The Gnome" make my hands hurt. But then you need the top octave work like the Peter Nero "Secret Love" to test intermodulation distortion at the high frequency extremes.
Let the flames begin!
Those speakers don't seem to available in the US, but may be a good choice elsewhere.
Hey, I'll listen to any ideas.. I should mention that a good diy design would be okay too, but commercial speakers readily available on the used market is probably the best idea for me (at this time anyway).
Just wanted to point that 2 way speakers doesn t
reproduce piano sounds accurately.
Medium range accuracy is instrumental to have
a warm sound and 2 way speakers have their frequency
split inside this critical range...
http://www.toaelectronics.com/disc/manuals/30_38sd_im.pdf
http://www.toaelectronics.com/disc/manuals/380-SE_IM.pdf
http://www.toaelectronics.com/disc/spec_sheets/sb-38s.pdf
FYI the parts in a 38sd would cost more than $1000 new today! (Although I would lose the super tweeters if you want the vintage sound.)
http://www.toaelectronics.com/disc/manuals/380-SE_IM.pdf
http://www.toaelectronics.com/disc/spec_sheets/sb-38s.pdf
FYI the parts in a 38sd would cost more than $1000 new today! (Although I would lose the super tweeters if you want the vintage sound.)
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