Best opamp for I/V conversion? (DAC)

Just about any RF choke will help, I use single layer ones for better high frequency loss. I have also used beads with a few loops of magnet wire thru them. This is all to lower the amount of RF going into the op-amp. I feel it is very important to roll off the input to any op-amp used for I/V, all that high frequency output from the DAC is not needed and makes life harder for any I/V device, so lets lower it. Play around with any RF choke you might have on hand.

Thanks Rick.
What do you actually use to stabilise the CFB Opamp or do you not have any capacitance in your feedback loop?
 
Hi Rick,

The AD811 is a great opamp! It was designed after the AD9610 that was one of my favorite opamps (but much to expensive). In fact I still have over 600 unused AD811's in parts drawers.

I just wanted to point out that we used the AD811 specs for a baseline to make the LME49713 a better CFB opamp for Audio, not video like the AD811 was designed for. Have you tried the LME49713 especially in the HA metal can? Do you need any AD811's?

Best Ex-National Audio Group (now gone) Regards,

audioman54/mark
 
Hi Mark, yes I really like the 811 too, in fact I use one as the line stage of my preamp with a JFET follower feeding it, and it sound great. Thanks for the info on the 49713 I did not know it had roots from the 811. Thanks also for the offer on the 811's, if I need some I know who to call, you have a great stash there. I run my 811's at + & - 12v with a clip on heat sink and they have been very reliable. I have not tried the LME49713 at all, but I bet it would sound good!
 
I also use 811 (after dual differential 1704's) followed by differential to single-end LM6172 stage.

The capacitor around 811 (to ground, or in a feedback loop) may sound ok and it may even work okay, but the only way to make sure the stage does not oscillate is to check for oscillations with a CRO.

Nick
 
Hi Rick,

The AD811 is a great opamp! It was designed after the AD9610 that was one of my favorite opamps (but much to expensive). In fact I still have over 600 unused AD811's in parts drawers.

I just wanted to point out that we used the AD811 specs for a baseline to make the LME49713 a better CFB opamp for Audio, not video like the AD811 was designed for. Have you tried the LME49713 especially in the HA metal can? Do you need any AD811's?

Best Ex-National Audio Group (now gone) Regards,

audioman54/mark

I agree with this sentiment. I have tried both the AD811 and the LME49713 in IV duties as an integrator and the better noise/distortion spec of the LME49713 is clearly audible.
The only issue is that the LME49713 is a lot more difficult to stabilise in this application with capacitance in the feedback path. I use Low Q, high Z ferrite beads in series with Pin 2 as a workaround instead of R and I still only achieve marginal stability with the LME49713 whereas the AD811 is completely stable.
I have not tried the metal can version. Why would the metal can perform any different to the normal SOIC package? I take it that the listed specification is exactly the same?
 
We did a lot of measurements and could find no difference between the cans and the dips on our AP2 Cascade 192's. However in double blind listening tests the cans were chosen to be clearly better by an impressive percentage of the participants. In fact even Bob Pease picked the cans over the dips...IN THE ANALOG POWER SUPPLY REGULATORS I DESIGNED. The signal path for those tests were already all Metal Can (HA) devices.

I do miss Bob! He felt the difference between the cans and the plastic parts (dip and SO) had to do with A) bigger bond wires inside the can B) Better thermals due to the mounting of the die to a larger thermal mass inside the can or C) Better thermals because the die could "breathe" as Bob put it. He said that was because the bare die inside the can was not constrained for thermal transients by the rigid plastic housing for the SO and dip parts. It is possible all three of these items contributed to the sonic improvement. He also felt that the minor shielding effect of the can (which is not a Faraday shield) was not a contributing factor to what we heard in our tests. Having done extensive testing in the past with various types of shields, including actual Faraday shields which include both electro-static and electro-magnetic shielding, I agreed with him.

Best out of work in Silicon Valley for well over a year now (thank you TI for killing the National Audio Group) Regards,

audioman54 / Mark
 
I believe the metal can IC's have much better acoustic resonance isolation, compared to plastic or even ceramic case. The plastic and ceramic IC's are firmly soldered to the PCB and hence -> are part of the PCB plane that resonates a lot. All mechanical vibrations are fully transferred to the plastic/ceramic DIL (or similar) cases, where the metal can is more resilient to these type of resonances.

Even the pins are better mechanically isolated in a metal can IC's (surrounded by rubber/plastic o-ring), compared to plastic / ceramic IC pins that can freely resonate with the PCB.

I also believe and am sure I'll get corrected if I'm wrong, that metal can IC's die is suspended in a jelly-like high viscosity liquid, inside the metal can, which is absolutely perfect way to isolate a die with a gain, i.e. the IC from wide-spread mechanical vibrations / oscillations.

Nick
 
LME49713 is a lot more difficult to stabilise in this application with capacitance in the feedback path. I use Low Q, high Z ferrite beads in series with Pin 2 as a workaround instead of R and I still only achieve marginal stability with the LME49713 whereas the AD811 is completely stable.
I have not tried the metal can version.


I am tempted to replace the 4 X 811 with LME49713's to give it a try, but apart from $15 a pop (!!) (metal can version) + shipment to Australia totaling $100 in cost, what you wrote re issues when trying to stabilise LME's is probably an additional reason to re-think this sudden urge.

Re beads, I don't use them, but can suggest pure silver wire instead of anything else when using the beads. I think Rick mentioned in one of his previous posts that he used steel wire with beads, but a copper or even better - silver, will give much better results. It is not important that the wire has magnetic properties.

Nick