Best electrolytic capacitors

Do caps have the same general sound signature when used on the power rail as they do when used for coupling? Or is it totally different? And is the signature as strong?

For instance, Gentlevoice, you say that polymers sound "up-tilted" and without weight in the bass. I found the opposite to be true when I tried the newer Panny OSCON for headphone coupling. They lacked air up high but had powerful bass. But I did get the same "smeared" transients you mention. These have a warm, buttery, fuzzy sound to me.

I am considering upgrading power smoothing caps on a DAC, and just wondering if any of my many experiments with electrolytics for coupling will also apply here.

What works well for coupling doesn't always work well for decoupling. Film caps of any type often sound too bright (but not always) In coupling position. If you find the upper mids thin or the sound a bit bright Nichicon FW solves that problem. Nichicon Muse sound like film caps to my ears, so good caps technically but don't always sound good. I used to like the old Oscon SP for decoupling In Naim preamps but haven't experimented with them anywhere else. For feedback the best I've used In my Onix OA21 are the Vishay Sprague Tantalex 150D (as used by Avondale audio In their NCC200 power amp module)
 
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Sorry I meant KZ. I didn't mean they are bad capacitors (quite the opposite), just that there's a synergy thing with caps and even the best cap doesn't always sound good In certain equipment. For example, I use film coupling caps In my Quad 306 power amp and they sound excellent. The same film caps In my Onix oa21 sound bright and thin. I guess they are just too revealing of problems elsewhere.

Trust your ears, not the specs.
 
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I'll agree and go further to state that there's no capacitor as good as "no capacitor". I'm designing a device now that uses DC servos instead of coupling caps. It's a heck of a lot more complex, but if you get it right, then the circuit works without coupling caps that can age and decay. DC servos can get a bad name if they're poorly designed, but if you use a pre-filter to roll off audio into the servo integrator, use a low distortion zero drift amplifier, and also use post attenuation to attenuate the servo noise, there's no reason to expect that a DC servo will work poorly. Yes, they might be expensive and slightly challenging to design, but compared to tweakazoid audiophile caps, they're inexpensive and compact, and have no wearout mechanism, unlike a wet Al coupling cap. Servos are not able to be used for every application, but if you can solve DC problems with a quality servo, you'll be much better off than with any sort of coupling cap, film or electrolytic.

Yes, there's no better cap than no cap. But many will argue that on a DC servo you also have two film caps, usually between 220n to 1uF. I've been simulating several power amps that I plan to build, and originally they are "pure DC", with no decoupling cap on the NFB or anything. But it's close to impossible to build a completely stable DIY amp that will not drift in DC output. On the simulation, using a classic LF411 which Erno Borbely (a DC servo fan) considered to be a low distortion zero drift chip, THD increases slightly with the servo compared to using a cap.

What is the DC servo design you are suggesting?
 
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Do caps have the same general sound signature when used on the power rail as they do when used for coupling? Or is it totally different?

For instance, Gentlevoice, you say that polymers sound "up-tilted" and without weight in the bass. I found the opposite to be true when I tried the newer Panny OSCON for headphone coupling. They lacked air up high but had powerful bass. But I did get the same "smeared" transients you mention. These have a warm, buttery, fuzzy sound to me.

I am considering upgrading power smoothing caps on a DAC, and just wondering if any of my many experiments with electrolytics for coupling will also apply here.
Totally different. Black Gate (Std/F) is great for supply decoupling. Tried/tested it once for coupling and never used them since for that purpose. OSCONs, are only good for feedback caps. The voltage loss of this cap is IME very high, not suitable for general supply bypass. But digital circuits (such as part of your DAC) have different requirements than analog circuits.
 
Have you all ever heard about Keltron?
They are indian caps maker . Quality and reliability is really good.
I think the Keltron is similar to Nippon GXE as they are both orange in color :p. The GXE is specified for high temperature applications, but it is measured better than many suspiciously fake caps trying to act like audio caps.
 

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When I think of the Muse parts for coupling, I would always use the bp and not the other, non polarized that are meant for power supplies. With the exception of a bit of treble response, those parts sound really good. Damping a regulator output (with digital circuits in particular) the audio specific parts can make for some odd results I’ve noticed. I use a dac which has a servo, and that uses a 1uf polystyrene, sounds great.

Haven’t heard of Keltron before.
 
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I had been using the solid polymer type caps, not in that position, but for digital decoupling, however have started to use a .1uf cog + an xr7 10uf, preceded by whatever is on the output of the regulator. They tend to be grainy in comparison for circuits that require a low impedance at higher frequencies.
The solid parts seem to work better before the regulation it seems. They have too low esr to use directly on regulator outputs.

They are higher frequency parts but nearly as high as ceramics, a step up from tantalum, and without the risky characteristics of tantalum parts.

I haven’t tried those in the vbe position, have used a higher value Muse bp, with a .01uf film/foil bypass. It would be interesting to see how they work there, since the demand is low, might be surprising.

@Carlmart; those are the ones I’m using, have made custom cradle type brackets from plastic to secure them in the chassis, next to the servo, which is on the edge of the board.
 
They are higher frequency parts but nearly as high as ceramics, a step up from tantalum, and without the risky characteristics of tantalum parts.

I haven’t tried those in the vbe position, have used a higher value Muse bp, with a .01uf film/foil bypass. It would be interesting to see how they work there, since the demand is low, might be surprising.
That's interesting. Nelson Pass used a pretty high value, 100uF I think, in his Class AB amp, but he's chosen a Tantalum type:
AB100 Class AB Power Amplifier

What BP value did you use?
 
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Hi all,
Inspired by Linear Tech. I recently did a series of measurements of various combinations of capacitors for digital circuitries. And - although the "best" solution likely also depends on the actually noise frequencies in a given circuitry - I found that typically 100 nF (e.g. C0G) combined with 10uF makes for a very clean noise spectrum. So apparently similar to what phase has started using ...

@Karl vd Berg:
Here pictured, the Nichicon LV.
Briefly studying the datasheet I would be a bit cautious about the LF performance - as mentioned previously I have found many polymers to have somewhat lacking LF performance, and without knowing, I at this point in time am assuming that it could be related to the high leakage currents.

Cheers,
Jesper
 
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Phase, Fatmarley and Johnego, thanks for the replies to my questions. Seems everyone agrees that an electrolytic sounds totally different in power decoupling duty versus signal coupling.I can't afford BG caps. I'm open to other suggestions for smoothing caps. Silmic II?
 
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I'm afraid there's no eletrolytic type of any kind, whatever the price or prestige, that can be compared to a good quality film type for low level output or input signals, particularly polypropylene.

The Black Gate NP do the job ! just replace Mundorf 10uF S/G/O on Pass B1
output with BG np 10 uF 50v , these BG need hundreds hours burning ,the one I use is at least 1khours minimum.