http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48152&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
It's probably how the speakers being discussed here got their paint job. I can't see a PVC mfg making yellow pipes just to be hidden inside walls and foundations.
ensen.
It's probably how the speakers being discussed here got their paint job. I can't see a PVC mfg making yellow pipes just to be hidden inside walls and foundations.
ensen.Time to prep.
I agree these suck up alot of primer. Fortunateltly I have foudn a better material to use. That way I can avoid all the countless hours of block sanding, and subtantially limit the necesary amount of wet sanding. Like I said above, I can't give away all the secrets. MDF isn't metal so it's possible that even a good bodyman could screw it up. It's alot easier to feather edge on metal with filler then wood and filler, becasue the wood sand away just as quickly as the filler. It was a real trip for me to learn the hard way. I don't use good primer for speakers becase I would go through 400 in primer alone by the time I'm ready to spray color. I use a 35dooerl/gallon laquer primer from my local auto body supply shop, and I get laughed at every time I buy some. For a reducer I just thin it with home depot laquer thinner and mix well. If you use this stuff you can spray in your garage with a simple cartrige resperator, I would go ahead and spray about 15 coats of primer before going to your body shop. It will make it much easier for them to get started on the tough part, of leveling the surface, and wet sanding the primer. Sealing the wood, is a good idea. I use a cheap turbine gun for primer, simply becasue you need so much of it. I am even experimetning with using a wagner and not reducing the primer, but it dosn't dry as fast so in the end I'm better off to use a turbine or regular sprayer.
I agree these suck up alot of primer. Fortunateltly I have foudn a better material to use. That way I can avoid all the countless hours of block sanding, and subtantially limit the necesary amount of wet sanding. Like I said above, I can't give away all the secrets. MDF isn't metal so it's possible that even a good bodyman could screw it up. It's alot easier to feather edge on metal with filler then wood and filler, becasue the wood sand away just as quickly as the filler. It was a real trip for me to learn the hard way. I don't use good primer for speakers becase I would go through 400 in primer alone by the time I'm ready to spray color. I use a 35dooerl/gallon laquer primer from my local auto body supply shop, and I get laughed at every time I buy some. For a reducer I just thin it with home depot laquer thinner and mix well. If you use this stuff you can spray in your garage with a simple cartrige resperator, I would go ahead and spray about 15 coats of primer before going to your body shop. It will make it much easier for them to get started on the tough part, of leveling the surface, and wet sanding the primer. Sealing the wood, is a good idea. I use a cheap turbine gun for primer, simply becasue you need so much of it. I am even experimetning with using a wagner and not reducing the primer, but it dosn't dry as fast so in the end I'm better off to use a turbine or regular sprayer.
mp006 knos his stuff.
I have been and continue to be a halfa$$ed finisher of almost anything that will catch paint. Boats, cars, and furniture.
Rule 1 It's ALL in the prep.
Rule 2 Prep is all about coated abrasives... sand paper.
Rule 3 Buy the most expensive paper you see... it almost always turns out to be the cheapest. My favorite is 3M's Imperial... purple.
Rule 4 Change paper like somebody else is buying it.
Rule 5 Keep the dust down. Vacuum and tack rag. Then tack rag again.
Here's a two part that I think I like...
http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/index.html
for lacquers, here is a high fill easy application
http://www.mlcampbell.com/pages/starpage.asp?star=MAG
I have been and continue to be a halfa$$ed finisher of almost anything that will catch paint. Boats, cars, and furniture.
Rule 1 It's ALL in the prep.
Rule 2 Prep is all about coated abrasives... sand paper.
Rule 3 Buy the most expensive paper you see... it almost always turns out to be the cheapest. My favorite is 3M's Imperial... purple.
Rule 4 Change paper like somebody else is buying it.
Rule 5 Keep the dust down. Vacuum and tack rag. Then tack rag again.
Here's a two part that I think I like...
http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/index.html
for lacquers, here is a high fill easy application
http://www.mlcampbell.com/pages/starpage.asp?star=MAG
Reply to questions.
I fit uses a hardener then it almost certainly contains a derivitive of isocynates, which can cause severe adverse reactions to your heath in small quantities. I haven't found a primer yet that didn't need to be sanded, but some of the new primer fillers are more productive then the old products. The product I use is actually a much better coating product then I have foudn anywhere in the autobody world. It's kind of a cross between the woodworking world and the composite / boatbuilders trade. I'm guessing that it's what wilson uses in their production process as well. It just took alot of time to find somethign applicable and practical.
I fit uses a hardener then it almost certainly contains a derivitive of isocynates, which can cause severe adverse reactions to your heath in small quantities. I haven't found a primer yet that didn't need to be sanded, but some of the new primer fillers are more productive then the old products. The product I use is actually a much better coating product then I have foudn anywhere in the autobody world. It's kind of a cross between the woodworking world and the composite / boatbuilders trade. I'm guessing that it's what wilson uses in their production process as well. It just took alot of time to find somethign applicable and practical.
I just realized my post probably made no sense since there is no link to the paint i am referring too, sorry. Here it is
primer: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4530203313&category=42611
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4530269916&category=63702
primer: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4530203313&category=42611
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4530269916&category=63702
At $29 the price is OK. At $42 (with shipping) support your local vendors.
No sanding? If that was the case they would be the only game in town! There is no shortcut on the prep. If the surface is prepped correctly almost any hardware store spray bomb will do a decent job.
Sand, sand, sand. ALWAYS with a block, rarely with your fingers. Move up in the grits. Be extravagant on your sandpaper choices.
Just my over-opinionated 2 cents.
No sanding? If that was the case they would be the only game in town! There is no shortcut on the prep. If the surface is prepped correctly almost any hardware store spray bomb will do a decent job.
Sand, sand, sand. ALWAYS with a block, rarely with your fingers. Move up in the grits. Be extravagant on your sandpaper choices.
Just my over-opinionated 2 cents.
does the type of primer used when painting with auto paint matter? It seems that if mdf soaks up so much primer it would get pretty expensive. Lowes has this pva primer for only $29 for 5 gallons will this work? http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=110494-000000086-78200A/05
Best paint
There is this paint that looks like granite when it's dry. You have to use a gun to spray it. One company that makes it is called Zolatone. It's pretty expensive, but it's a nice finish. It covers up any imperfections in the wood and they have a water based one with no fumes. I don't know where to buy it though.
There is this paint that looks like granite when it's dry. You have to use a gun to spray it. One company that makes it is called Zolatone. It's pretty expensive, but it's a nice finish. It covers up any imperfections in the wood and they have a water based one with no fumes. I don't know where to buy it though.
Why does everyone use automotive primers on their MDF?!?!
I use a specialist MDF primer, that locks the surface and prevents further soak-up of coats.
Very easy to do, I apply 5 coats to make absolutely sure that the surface is good. Then wet sand the brush marks out with a palm sander and 380grit pads - very effective and quick.
Then onto the basecoat, a 2-3 good even coats then sand using 800 grit. Afterwards a final coat with no sanding and straight to the laquer. With 1500 grit on that and G3 rubbing compound.
I get great results everytime.
I use a specialist MDF primer, that locks the surface and prevents further soak-up of coats.
Very easy to do, I apply 5 coats to make absolutely sure that the surface is good. Then wet sand the brush marks out with a palm sander and 380grit pads - very effective and quick.
Then onto the basecoat, a 2-3 good even coats then sand using 800 grit. Afterwards a final coat with no sanding and straight to the laquer. With 1500 grit on that and G3 rubbing compound.
I get great results everytime.
Primers
I have switched to a roll on autobody primer from PPG it's about 55 bucks a quart with the hardener, but it's easy to apply sand, and is way better then the old laquer primer I was using. It' also sticks to the surface of the material i now use to glaze and level the cabinets before sanding and painting. But it's also an Isocynate hardener so it's not for consumer use. supposedly since it's applied by roller you can use it outside the booth with a fresh set of organic cartriges on your respirator, but I don't know what the official OSHA rules are here. It';s also quite efficient since it's extremely high solids. Jut be sure to mix it well, The good stuff really cakes to the bottom and may require as much as 20 minutes of solid mixing, if it's set awhile and if you don't have a paint shaker.
I have switched to a roll on autobody primer from PPG it's about 55 bucks a quart with the hardener, but it's easy to apply sand, and is way better then the old laquer primer I was using. It' also sticks to the surface of the material i now use to glaze and level the cabinets before sanding and painting. But it's also an Isocynate hardener so it's not for consumer use. supposedly since it's applied by roller you can use it outside the booth with a fresh set of organic cartriges on your respirator, but I don't know what the official OSHA rules are here. It';s also quite efficient since it's extremely high solids. Jut be sure to mix it well, The good stuff really cakes to the bottom and may require as much as 20 minutes of solid mixing, if it's set awhile and if you don't have a paint shaker.
you get what you pay for
The ppg stuff is really good, you pay for the solids. I also used it on my front bumber and I won't go back. All other primers suck. Since I don't have to spray it, I can do it in my garage. Very nice. No dragging speakers to the spray booth until they're ready for color. it's so high solids that I have done two large speakers and only used about a quarter of a quart. So I figure that the primer here has cost be about 10 bucks since th other 2 went on my front bumper to fix a gouge after I filled it with flexable filler. Not to mention that rolling it on saves alot of time, with not having to clean spray guns, and the shop etc.....
The ppg stuff is really good, you pay for the solids. I also used it on my front bumber and I won't go back. All other primers suck. Since I don't have to spray it, I can do it in my garage. Very nice. No dragging speakers to the spray booth until they're ready for color. it's so high solids that I have done two large speakers and only used about a quarter of a quart. So I figure that the primer here has cost be about 10 bucks since th other 2 went on my front bumper to fix a gouge after I filled it with flexable filler. Not to mention that rolling it on saves alot of time, with not having to clean spray guns, and the shop etc.....
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