Best Caulking for speaker box building?

[Dominick22]

I am building my first DIY speaker. It is a center channel. I am curious about what I should use to ensure that I seal up the box correctly?

What should I use to make sure that the seams where the wood meets is seemless?


Thanks,
Dominick

 

[Dominick22]

This is the speaker that I am building...


http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/cynosure/index.html


Dominick

 

[pinkmouse]

What should I use to make sure that the seams where the wood meets is seemless?

Accurately cut wood?

Seriously, I never use anything but plenty of glue in the joints.

 

[boogs]

"Accurately cut wood?

Seriously, I never use anything but plenty of glue in the joints."

I've noticed a number of people posting about caulking the inside corners of various speaker enclosures. Like pinkmouse, i've never caulked any speakers i've made. I usually smooth over any glue that has beaded up on the inside so it forms a very small fillet - seems to do the trick.

Scott

 

[badman]

Me too, I use a lot of glue and make sure it squeezes out, then wipe it off. Lots of glue and lots of pressure makes a good joint.

 

[Dominick22]

alright--ill try it that way then


thanks guys,
Dominick

 

[sreten]

Hi,

The obvious answer is none at all, if caulking is needed the joints are poor.
After glueing the PVA can be beaded into the corners, but simply for neatness.

/sreten.

 

[Cal Weldon]

The man wants to know what caulk to use not that you guys are so good you don't have to use it.

Dominick,

Many different caulks will work well. Because you can't easily get inside the box once you have it sealed up, I recommend you use either a urethane based (leave for one day before closing box so it can gas off) or butyl (have lots of rags around to chase the strings) otherwise sold as acoustic sealant. Both of those are very durable in this application.

 

[Geek]

Wheather I make a perfect joint (rare) or have a gap "oops", I just use clear GE silicone on the inside. Makes for airtight too.

For the outside, you can use a gap filling past of glue/sawdust (fine stuff from sanding), or autobody spot putty.

 

[Cal Weldon]

Hi Gregg,

I recommend against the use of any silicone based caulk including the paintable version mixed with latex.

Silicones require a good a mount of prep work before application and this is something I've rarely seen on the inside of a box.

Again, I believe the two to consider are urethane based or butyl. Both of these will adhere well and remain pliable for many years.

 

[chainenoble]

Construction Adhesive.

http://www.lepageproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=22&subid=108&plid=284

it not only seals, but bonds.it's strong stuff

 

[Cal Weldon]

Construction Adhesive.

Very strong indeed but not intended as a caulk. Harder to lay the bead than regular urethane, hard to tool, clean-up can be involving. Not really suited to the job.

 

[chainenoble]

i use in inside the box.smear it on liberally.no need to be neat inside the box.you will have a much stronger box.i'm a mason and have used this stuff on retaining walls(resists moisture)and i tell you that breaking the bond takes some work.

 

[Ed LaFontaine]

Caulk is good. Probably the low-cost option of choice. Construction adhesive will work, but has a shorter working life and will not wash off once it is dry. You'll have to use a solvent when it is "wet"....uhhh, like Cal said... There are many options, including high velocity duct sealant. This is used to seal HVAC ductwork. It will form a fillet and contains fibers for reinforcment to bridge across gaps.

 

[chainenoble]

ed, do you have a link to this "duct sealant"...interested.

 

[Ed LaFontaine]

google is your friend

http://www.fosterproducts.com/default.aspx?PageID=product_list&cat_id=167&sub_cat_id=171

http://www.permatite.com/seal2.htm

scroll down here to find a butyl tape...to cure everything but a broken heart and the crack of dawn

http://www.wardind.com/Products/Sealants.htm

 

[Cal Weldon]

Ed,

I am familiar with it. I had not thought of it but I bet it would do quite well. Is it cheap enough?

EDIT: I see that the second link states it is an acrylic latex. That should be good enough for a speaker box.

 

[jcx]

why do you think you want to seal a speaker box? - look up atmospheric pressure variations - room pressure changes from storm fronts, maybe even wind gusts could move a truely "sealed box" driver beyond its Xmax

leakages with seconds time constants are better than hermetic seals

 

[Ed LaFontaine]

Cal, I use it because I have a container left over from a duct install job I did on my home. So, do a diy heat pump install for 3 grand and the goop is free!
Really, I got the material from my hvac source and think the gallon bucket was a little over $10. That's more than I'll need for awhile...I'd bet it could be found at the larger home supply sources.

...and another google hit with more goodies

http://www.designpoly.com/sealants.htm

 

[chainenoble]

does it dry hard or flexable??