Thanks for the reply, LineSource!
I think I may need to buy Dayton DATS as well for the impedance measurements, so I'm looking at $200 for measurements but since I have been into this hobby on and off for 20+ years it may be worth it.
From what I've read, REW would be too much hassle to set up and/or not 100% reliable for impedance measurements. Sounds like $100 well spent for some ease of use.
When I built the solid bloodwood (mdf core, double layer cabs, 1.5" thick total) cabs all those years ago, I built the internal 18W 8543 right in without any way to extract it. So I'm stuck with those. No opening panels and the front hole is too small to get it out.
These are isobaric which means as you know, there is a ported chamber in back, a baffle inside with a woofer attached, a sealed chamber, then the front baffle with the visible woofer mounted.
I think I may need to buy Dayton DATS as well for the impedance measurements, so I'm looking at $200 for measurements but since I have been into this hobby on and off for 20+ years it may be worth it.
From what I've read, REW would be too much hassle to set up and/or not 100% reliable for impedance measurements. Sounds like $100 well spent for some ease of use.When I built the solid bloodwood (mdf core, double layer cabs, 1.5" thick total) cabs all those years ago, I built the internal 18W 8543 right in without any way to extract it. So I'm stuck with those. No opening panels and the front hole is too small to get it out.
These are isobaric which means as you know, there is a ported chamber in back, a baffle inside with a woofer attached, a sealed chamber, then the front baffle with the visible woofer mounted.
Tweeter level is some 10db higher which should be very audible and questionable ( validity of measurement ). You have nice cabinets there, but the tweeter-to-mid spacing is substantial and may lead to lobbing errors and depending on your listening position and crossover frequency, disruptions in driver integration. A lower crossover point may help offset this. The SB29 can crossover low enough and to answer your question is the Satori worth it - I haven`t tested it but I suspect the answer would be yes as those 5% lower performance in some areas that reduce the price 2-3 times may be good enough to tell your brain - this doesn`t sound right.
Tweeter level is some 10db higher which should be very audible and questionable ( validity of measurement ). You have nice cabinets there, but the tweeter-to-mid spacing is substantial and may lead to lobbing errors and depending on your listening position and crossover frequency, disruptions in driver integration. A lower crossover point may help offset this. The SB29 can crossover low enough and to answer your question is the Satori worth it - I haven`t tested it but I suspect the answer would be yes as those 5% lower performance in some areas that reduce the price 2-3 times may be good enough to tell your brain - this doesn`t sound right.
Hi Mario
It could be just the measurement as the tweeter does not stick out in any way listening to these as-is. Very smooth and laid back sound. Maybe even bit dark (as opposed to bright). There is also no perceptible driver separation at the listening position, I attempted to counter that by angling the woofer baffle upward so that the tweeter and woofer centerlines intersect at the listening position. Maybe it even works.
OK... OK.... someone has to say it!
50 year old isobaric speakers... ICK... ICK... ICK... put them in your garage or bedroom with an old IPOD.
If you took all the money you would spend on measurement equipment, plus a bunch of passive components for test and tweek, and factor in your time to marginly juice up 50yr old speakers, you could purchase a latest and greatest kit that would SOUND MUCH BETTER and last for another 50 years.
Ben.... Xmas is only 362 days away!
Go out and explore a few DIY 2-way and 3-way designs before you spend a penny here.
50 year old isobaric speakers... ICK... ICK... ICK... put them in your garage or bedroom with an old IPOD.
If you took all the money you would spend on measurement equipment, plus a bunch of passive components for test and tweek, and factor in your time to marginly juice up 50yr old speakers, you could purchase a latest and greatest kit that would SOUND MUCH BETTER and last for another 50 years.
Ben.... Xmas is only 362 days away!
Go out and explore a few DIY 2-way and 3-way designs before you spend a penny here.
All good points and well taken... but I figure I would need the measurement stuff anyway!
Still thinking about your input!
Heck, I even picked up a pair of Pioneer BS22's for 60 bucks that, with Dennis Murphey's mods would probably sound great (some claim they are hard to beat at any price with a subwoofer), but they would not 'look' like these old guys.
Shame to send them to a damp garage somewhere!- Status
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