NU6000 shut-downs perhaps due to dust?
Today (August 8) I had my first odd shut-downs of my NU6000 with the super-quiet fans I installed weeks ago. I get brief resets after about 45 minutes of listening. It is to be noted that (1) room is about 76 deg. F, and (2) not pushing amp hard at all, also (3) amp has been lightly used (I have been away about a month this summer). I opened it up and yes, there is a tiny bit of dust in there; perhaps because there are four cats and two guinea pigs and oh yes, a guest dog in my home! I vacuumed this out carefully, and also re-positioned my fan wiring (love how that electrician's tape has come off!) Too soon to say if this fixes the immediate problem...
OOPs, no it's not! Shut down after barely ten minutes of operation. Back to the drawing board...
One other thing that has recently changed is I'm running a NU3000 to power a "quarter wave transmission line" sub (separate thread here) ... I will try the NU3000 w/o the NU3000; perhaps there is a AC supply issue?
Does anyone know of dust filters for the intake ports? They used to have these on "expensive" electronic gadgets but I've yet to see one in the PC or cheap amp world.
Today (August 8) I had my first odd shut-downs of my NU6000 with the super-quiet fans I installed weeks ago. I get brief resets after about 45 minutes of listening. It is to be noted that (1) room is about 76 deg. F, and (2) not pushing amp hard at all, also (3) amp has been lightly used (I have been away about a month this summer). I opened it up and yes, there is a tiny bit of dust in there; perhaps because there are four cats and two guinea pigs and oh yes, a guest dog in my home! I vacuumed this out carefully, and also re-positioned my fan wiring (love how that electrician's tape has come off!) Too soon to say if this fixes the immediate problem...
OOPs, no it's not! Shut down after barely ten minutes of operation. Back to the drawing board...
One other thing that has recently changed is I'm running a NU3000 to power a "quarter wave transmission line" sub (separate thread here) ... I will try the NU3000 w/o the NU3000; perhaps there is a AC supply issue?
Does anyone know of dust filters for the intake ports? They used to have these on "expensive" electronic gadgets but I've yet to see one in the PC or cheap amp world.
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DO NOT VACUUM ELECTRONICS!
Risk is that you damage them by electrostatic discharge!
As for dust filters, use some old nylon socks (is that the correct word?) and put them over the fans.
This is what I mean Stocking - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Risk is that you damage them by electrostatic discharge!
As for dust filters, use some old nylon socks (is that the correct word?) and put them over the fans.
This is what I mean Stocking - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hmm, I had not ever thought that vacuuming could be an ESD risk.
I am known to wash my electronics (yes, as in the sink, with the sprayer, or outside with a hose), which usually but not always does not damage the electronics. Obviously my electronics are at higher risk of damage than from static discharge
I do try and dry things out quite well before applying voltage again
Yes, your English is almost perfect. I was considering something like solid foam filters used in some air filter units.
I am known to wash my electronics (yes, as in the sink, with the sprayer, or outside with a hose), which usually but not always does not damage the electronics. Obviously my electronics are at higher risk of damage than from static discharge
I do try and dry things out quite well before applying voltage again
Yes, your English is almost perfect. I was considering something like solid foam filters used in some air filter units.
The NU6000 is resetting. After many, many hours of trouble-free operation, my dual-quiet fan mod of the NU6000 is malfunctioning. Brief resets for several seconds, just like the no-fan operation. Overheating, I assume. Odd: I have not been working the amp hard at all. Room temperature is about 76 degrees F. I took cover off amp, carefully vacuumed. There was a small amount of visible dust (I have a home with four cats and two guinea pigs, so dust balls are a problem.) I did not look at the underside of the PCB (where the heat sinks are.) Reconnect amp, still get resets. Now for drastic measures. Disconnect amp. Remove cover. Wash off in kitchen sink (spray with ammonia, then rinse with spray hose and hot water.) Let dry for few hours in hot afternoon sun. Appears dry. Now, for good measure, heat oven to 170 deg. F and "cook" amp for about 30 minutes. After amp has cooled, for good measure I am reversing the two fans to suck air in the front. At the front, using tape and cardboard, I fashioned "ductwork" to draw most of the incoming air under the PCB, with the theory that that is where most of the heat is and needs to be sucked out the rear. Will it work? Has for ten minutes so far!
Now for drastic measures. Disconnect amp. Remove cover. Wash off in kitchen sink (spray with ammonia, then rinse with spray hose and hot water.) Let dry for few hours in hot afternoon sun. Appears dry. Now, for good measure, heat oven to 170 deg. F and "cook" amp for about 30 minutes. Yes, I can (very often) "get away" with this. I have done that to a NU3000 and an ancient Bose Wave Radio that was dust-laden and they survived. After amp has cooled, for good measure I am reversing the two fans to suck air in the front. At the front, using tape and cardboard, I fashioned "ductwork" to draw most of the incoming air under the PCB, with the theory that that is where most of the heat is and needs to be sucked out the rear. Will it work? Has for ten minutes so far!
Rollnuffs, and others who have modded a NU6000, have you had issues with shut downs later? Since I seem to have fixed my issue, this suggests that dust or dirt may be an issue with the Mod even after relatively short use. It may be necessary to clean often. Maybe compressed air under the PCB. For the rest of us there is the dish washer and oven method.
Hi all,
I am planning to get an inuke 1000DSP from the US, and of course will be working on changing the fans but another question that I hope is not far from the topics, will the inuke work with a step down transformer? I have seen one person mention this here in this thread but did not mention if it worked. Typically if it has a built in ac to dc switching power supply it should theoretically work! I have several US 120 V 60 Hz amps in the house that I am operating with a transformer in the house, my only concern is not the voltage but the 50 Hz instead of the 60Hz. So did anyone try it with a step down transformer and 50 Hz? Usually I make the transformer 220/110 instead of 220/120 because I understood that is better to lower a little the voltage as 60 hz windings when operated at 50 Hz might not withstand same amp rating! might be true but I believe that most good companies will use good quality windings in the transformer inside the machine.
I am planning to get an inuke 1000DSP from the US, and of course will be working on changing the fans but another question that I hope is not far from the topics, will the inuke work with a step down transformer? I have seen one person mention this here in this thread but did not mention if it worked. Typically if it has a built in ac to dc switching power supply it should theoretically work! I have several US 120 V 60 Hz amps in the house that I am operating with a transformer in the house, my only concern is not the voltage but the 50 Hz instead of the 60Hz. So did anyone try it with a step down transformer and 50 Hz? Usually I make the transformer 220/110 instead of 220/120 because I understood that is better to lower a little the voltage as 60 hz windings when operated at 50 Hz might not withstand same amp rating! might be true but I believe that most good companies will use good quality windings in the transformer inside the machine.
I do not know, but...
When I was looking at the board of the NU60000 I noted there is a jumper that clearly says 120 or 220 volts. However in other messages the NUxxxx is claimed to not be voltage selectable. Not sure if a similar jumper is on the other NUxxxx.
As a disclaimer, note that the Behringer docs as far as I know, make no claim of selectable switching for the NU6000. Do any experimentation at your own risk, etc.
I know we are on tight budgets ("DIY") but for importing from the USA, will you really save money on a low-end amp like a NU1000? I know your taxes are high, but why not go for the big score? I will trade you a pallet of NU1000 for one of your Blondes. (OK you are not from Sweden, but Lebanon...send me some cedar trees).
When I was looking at the board of the NU60000 I noted there is a jumper that clearly says 120 or 220 volts. However in other messages the NUxxxx is claimed to not be voltage selectable. Not sure if a similar jumper is on the other NUxxxx.
As a disclaimer, note that the Behringer docs as far as I know, make no claim of selectable switching for the NU6000. Do any experimentation at your own risk, etc.
I know we are on tight budgets ("DIY") but for importing from the USA, will you really save money on a low-end amp like a NU1000? I know your taxes are high, but why not go for the big score? I will trade you a pallet of NU1000 for one of your Blondes. (OK you are not from Sweden, but Lebanon...send me some cedar trees).
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No photos but..
on the USA NU6000, in the AC section, if you look just to the left of the Omron 12V relay, there are two jumpers marked 115V (J3) and 230V (J2). Under this it says "Caution 100-120 VAC insert J1 and J3. 220-240 VAC insert J2 only." J1 ("115V") is about 3 cm "south" of the Omron, just outside the box or shielding thing.
I am too lazy to check my NU3000, and besides the question deals with the NU1000. So, does this data make the smuggling of NU6000s from America to Western Europe a feasible enterprise
on the USA NU6000, in the AC section, if you look just to the left of the Omron 12V relay, there are two jumpers marked 115V (J3) and 230V (J2). Under this it says "Caution 100-120 VAC insert J1 and J3. 220-240 VAC insert J2 only." J1 ("115V") is about 3 cm "south" of the Omron, just outside the box or shielding thing.
I am too lazy to check my NU3000, and besides the question deals with the NU1000. So, does this data make the smuggling of NU6000s from America to Western Europe a feasible enterprise
"as 60 hz windings when operated at 50 Hz might not withstand same amp rating!"
-> who told you that kind of nonsense?
Frequency dependent skin effect at 50 or 60 Hz does matter when conducting several dozens of kA through 1000mm^2 copper bars (which is often the case in energy distribution systems, power stations or test houses) - definitely not when several amps are flowing through a 2mm^2 copper wire.
The iNukes don t have PFC - just diode rectification on primary side. As i don t have the schematic of the low line iNu1000 at hand, I can t tell u if it has voltage doubling rectification or not. Just check the voltage of the big caps on 110V suppy: Is it 1 x 165Vdc or 2 x 165Vdc with a centered "0V node"? In the second case, you can easily re route the 230V Ac through line diodes to get 1 x 320Vdc (don't forget the voltage balance bleeding resistors parallel to each cap or use 400V types instead of every 2 pcs. of series'ed 200V types in series). As long as the DC / DC converter does not need the center tapped 0V (very unlikely), this would work for iNuke1000.
-> who told you that kind of nonsense?
Frequency dependent skin effect at 50 or 60 Hz does matter when conducting several dozens of kA through 1000mm^2 copper bars (which is often the case in energy distribution systems, power stations or test houses) - definitely not when several amps are flowing through a 2mm^2 copper wire.
The iNukes don t have PFC - just diode rectification on primary side. As i don t have the schematic of the low line iNu1000 at hand, I can t tell u if it has voltage doubling rectification or not. Just check the voltage of the big caps on 110V suppy: Is it 1 x 165Vdc or 2 x 165Vdc with a centered "0V node"? In the second case, you can easily re route the 230V Ac through line diodes to get 1 x 320Vdc (don't forget the voltage balance bleeding resistors parallel to each cap or use 400V types instead of every 2 pcs. of series'ed 200V types in series). As long as the DC / DC converter does not need the center tapped 0V (very unlikely), this would work for iNuke1000.
Hi, I am not exporting from the US, I have a trip for training and I thought I can pay 250 usd, because in my country although there are some good Amps such as Yamaha. I don't always find the smaller (cheaper ones). So I figured I can get one inuke and just put a step down transformer like I have done for my pioneer sc07 and my energy eswv10 sub. The European models are easier to work in the Us, because they are dual frequency while the US they only mention the 60 hz. It is not the voltage hat is worrying me, this can be fixed with a transformer. But did any one try one of these Us models with a transformer?
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I have just seen ViennaTom reply. Thanks for the info, I will use a step down transformer just for the safe side. I don't think it is only related to skin effect, but I see your logic. I recall seeing 400 hz motors or alternators on airplanes, they are set at 400 hz because the similar same power ones would be much larger but can't recall the reason.
Yeah 400Hz trafos for aircraft are much smaller - due to less energy requirements for the core. They would saturate and short circuit for sure on 50Hz / same voltage. Also, switch mode PSU trafos on 150kHz are even smaller, hence the high power density of SMPSU vs 50Hz- trafo. (At 6 figure frequencies, the skin effect does play a role again, but thats another story) 400Hz aircraft frequency is used mainly because of the size and weight of the core. In other words: If your step down trafo is designed to work on 230V / 50Hz, it will work that way and you need not worry about core saturation. (It would also work at 230V / 60 Hz with the same output power)
Good to know all of this. In fact it is ironical because since i was afraid of this my transformer used for the sc07 I used 220 to 110 instead of 120 just to take care of this thought on the expense of some less power but I might have been wrong. When I read about frequency difference effect, it was as well at the low voltage level, but the article that I read did mention that it might have some effect in case the amplifier had an inside power transformer with cheap windings designed for 60 hz!!! But anyhow, you have negated that and I get the logic. I need a new 220 to 120 transformer instead of the one I have
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