It appears the Three Stooges are quite international and ubiquitous.
MOE: "Hey knumbskull, did you lock the door?"
CURLEY: "Soytenley. Locked it twice. Once this way and once that way"
Nyuk Nyuk.
Sandy - Scott - I just moved from Draper to Chicago. How can I not have noticed you or you humor while there?
Edit - June 2008. I see. Too bad. Utah can use some "Stooge" humor. Too uptight (no offense)
MOE: "Hey knumbskull, did you lock the door?"
CURLEY: "Soytenley. Locked it twice. Once this way and once that way"
Nyuk Nyuk.
Sandy - Scott - I just moved from Draper to Chicago. How can I not have noticed you or you humor while there?
Edit - June 2008. I see. Too bad. Utah can use some "Stooge" humor. Too uptight (no offense)
Re: Price DCX2496
For a single unit? Holy Schlitz what sort of taxes do you have in Europe?!
In Canada the DCX2496 sells for $329.99 (205 Euros) and they are very easy to find. Personally I buy Behringer equipment at Electro-Mike where it's available for pick-up anytime (if I feel like driving to Quebec City) or delivered to me in Montreal within 48 hours.
For those interested Electro-Mike prices are the same for goods delivered to the US ($1US = $1CA)
http://www.electromike.com/customer/product.php?productid=28807&cat=0&page=3&productcode=DCX2496
byteboy said:
For a single unit? Holy Schlitz what sort of taxes do you have in Europe?!
In Canada the DCX2496 sells for $329.99 (205 Euros) and they are very easy to find. Personally I buy Behringer equipment at Electro-Mike where it's available for pick-up anytime (if I feel like driving to Quebec City) or delivered to me in Montreal within 48 hours.
For those interested Electro-Mike prices are the same for goods delivered to the US ($1US = $1CA)
http://www.electromike.com/customer/product.php?productid=28807&cat=0&page=3&productcode=DCX2496
ScottGardner said:
Good, you see we brought some summer fun into this place. We even have people on vacation responding.
When I read your posting, that very day I was just thinking about what I wrote. This summer my wife and myself decided not to do our summer trip back home because our kids are having busy summer. On my way to work I was just driving and thinking how I am really missing my summer vacation, and wondering if people around me feel the same.
Stay well
AR2
I purchased my DCX2496 for $199 with free shipping.
It was a refurb unit and was without a scratch anywhere.
I worked for a week, but started to power down mysteriously. I opened her up and someone went a little crazy with the rubber connector "Stay" goop. I peeled away the goop that spilled onto a few of the chips and connectors, and it has worked perfectly ever since.
Still being sold for $199 with free shipping here:
DCX2496
It was a refurb unit and was without a scratch anywhere.
I worked for a week, but started to power down mysteriously. I opened her up and someone went a little crazy with the rubber connector "Stay" goop. I peeled away the goop that spilled onto a few of the chips and connectors, and it has worked perfectly ever since.
Still being sold for $199 with free shipping here:
DCX2496
john65b said:
Refurbs can be risky but as long as one has the knowledge required to "de-refurb" electronics when required they can be a great deal. Demos are also interesting, I bought a demo DCX2496 from Electro-Mike for $129.99 a few weeks back, it came in the original packaging and looked new save for a barely noticeable nick on the back panel (you need a LED flashlight to see it), innards were dust-free and looked pristine. I haven't used that one yet because I still haven't bought XLR adapters for it. My intent is to use this unit to help in the design/tuning of passive Xovers.
Harbuch transformers?
Hi, Is there any aussie DCX2496/DEQ2496 owners in here that have looked into doing the output transformer mod? I'm wondering if Harbuchs might have suitable transformers at a reasonable price. Or even the possibility of a group buy.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/harbuch/harbuch.htm
col.
Hi, Is there any aussie DCX2496/DEQ2496 owners in here that have looked into doing the output transformer mod? I'm wondering if Harbuchs might have suitable transformers at a reasonable price. Or even the possibility of a group buy.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/harbuch/harbuch.htm
col.
mazdapowered said:
I too enjoy the active output board since a while.
Just recently I discovered a cheap & easy improvment I would like to share (it's almost trivial once you know it - but no one has told me ,-):
My tweeter is some 6 db or so more effective => easy for the DCX even without Jan's board. Nothing to think about...
Ok, the active boards provides for some remote controlled high/low level setting - do I need this? Everything is already done...
I didn't realise for long. But, YES! Move the tweeter attenuation out of the digital region into the volume control.
=> Definitly less grain etc.
Ulli
Frank Oettle's src/clock - dsp board components
To Frank or anyone else who has installed the src/clock kit.
I have finished my src/clock kit assembly and was about to get it installed into the DCX but things started getting too strange for me to risk it. I checked earlier posts on the topic but none mention the component removal process. Therefore I'm beginning to think that I might have a unique situation.
Instructions say.
1) Remove r34 (22 ohm) Sounds easy enough. But when I get there I find that r34 is 100 ohms and that there is a 22 ohm resistor but it is r33. So I'm confused as to which resistor to remove.
The remainder of instruction one says (You can also disassemble q3, r38 (1M ohm), and short circuit c77 (20pF). I presume "you can also" implies that the removal of q3, r38, and short c77 is optional. Is that correct?
Whether optional or not I would like to proceed and remove said components because the mere mention of doing so must have some merit or it wouldn't be presented, right? Anyway, it gets even stranger yet. My DCX isn't the same as the instruction sans q3. R38 doesn't exist. R37 is the highest count for me. My r37 is 1M ohm but it's not an r38 so again, I'm confused. And that's not all. C77 is boogered up too. My c77 is 47 pF, but there is a c26 that is 20pF. What to do.
Help!
To Frank or anyone else who has installed the src/clock kit.
I have finished my src/clock kit assembly and was about to get it installed into the DCX but things started getting too strange for me to risk it. I checked earlier posts on the topic but none mention the component removal process. Therefore I'm beginning to think that I might have a unique situation.
Instructions say.
1) Remove r34 (22 ohm) Sounds easy enough. But when I get there I find that r34 is 100 ohms and that there is a 22 ohm resistor but it is r33. So I'm confused as to which resistor to remove.
The remainder of instruction one says (You can also disassemble q3, r38 (1M ohm), and short circuit c77 (20pF). I presume "you can also" implies that the removal of q3, r38, and short c77 is optional. Is that correct?
Whether optional or not I would like to proceed and remove said components because the mere mention of doing so must have some merit or it wouldn't be presented, right? Anyway, it gets even stranger yet. My DCX isn't the same as the instruction sans q3. R38 doesn't exist. R37 is the highest count for me. My r37 is 1M ohm but it's not an r38 so again, I'm confused. And that's not all. C77 is boogered up too. My c77 is 47 pF, but there is a c26 that is 20pF. What to do.
Help!
I found schematics and ran continuity on my particular DSP board that must be of some ancient revision or something. Turns out Frank's instructions match the schematic and probably every one else's boards but mine.
So to clear any confusion some people doing the mod may run into this same situation. Here is what I discovered.
R34 per Frank's instructions is R33 on my board. Comes off pin 4 of IC20 and provides clk24
Q3 is Q3
R38 is R37 on my board. Is parallel to Q3
C77 is C77 but instead of it being 20pF mine was 47pF. Connects to pin 1 IC20, R37, and Q3.
In previous post I said C26. I meant C76. Typo. Glad I didn't short C76. Make smoke out of IC20.
At any rate, I have the src/clock up and running and it sounds great! I built the i/o kit first and auditioned it. Very noticeable improvement in clarity. And as others here have said for the src/clock mod: better stage, image, definition, localization, and a little more clarity in the midrange and up. (for me)
Kudos go out to Frank Oettle for the SRC/clock kit and the Vreg kit. And kudos to Jan Didden for the analog output kit. (passive here) I'm happy with the results.
Bye
So to clear any confusion some people doing the mod may run into this same situation. Here is what I discovered.
R34 per Frank's instructions is R33 on my board. Comes off pin 4 of IC20 and provides clk24
Q3 is Q3
R38 is R37 on my board. Is parallel to Q3
C77 is C77 but instead of it being 20pF mine was 47pF. Connects to pin 1 IC20, R37, and Q3.
In previous post I said C26. I meant C76. Typo. Glad I didn't short C76. Make smoke out of IC20.
At any rate, I have the src/clock up and running and it sounds great! I built the i/o kit first and auditioned it. Very noticeable improvement in clarity. And as others here have said for the src/clock mod: better stage, image, definition, localization, and a little more clarity in the midrange and up. (for me)
Kudos go out to Frank Oettle for the SRC/clock kit and the Vreg kit. And kudos to Jan Didden for the analog output kit. (passive here) I'm happy with the results.
Bye
Here's where I show my n00bness.
So I am ready to put in the passive output upgrade and I realize I'm going to lose input C. I know I should have paid more attention but somtimes I get too focused on a tree and get lost in the forest.
I plan on using digital in for music but what about the mic input for auto alignment? What have others done?
So I am ready to put in the passive output upgrade and I realize I'm going to lose input C. I know I should have paid more attention but somtimes I get too focused on a tree and get lost in the forest.
I plan on using digital in for music but what about the mic input for auto alignment? What have others done?
How to Use DCX Delay Feature?
I have question for you fellows on how to use the DCX Delay feature effectively.
I design a 2 way speaker one is compression driver(CD) and the other a std 10" paper woofer. Both are actively x-over using the DCX2496. If the CD locates futher behind the woofer then do I in general have to compensate for the delay between the 2 drivers using the DCX delay feature?
If I have to do this can you explain how do I measure the delay?
Also in addition is there any other situations besides that stated above I have to use the delay feature. A brief description here on how to use it.
Thanks.
I have question for you fellows on how to use the DCX Delay feature effectively.
I design a 2 way speaker one is compression driver(CD) and the other a std 10" paper woofer. Both are actively x-over using the DCX2496. If the CD locates futher behind the woofer then do I in general have to compensate for the delay between the 2 drivers using the DCX delay feature?
If I have to do this can you explain how do I measure the delay?
Also in addition is there any other situations besides that stated above I have to use the delay feature. A brief description here on how to use it.
Thanks.
Re: How to Use DCX Delay Feature?
Yes
The longer delays are generally used in live sound (remember this is pro gear) to time compensate speakers that may be placed deep into the audence. They would be delayed so that you wouldn't hear them untill the correct time. If this wasn't done you would hear the mains as an echo to these support speakers. At 100 feet thats 100ms or a 10th of a sec this would be very disorenting.
This is not a feature you are likely to use. You could use a seperate DCX to time align your surround speakers but that is probably overkill. To a large extent AC3 and DTS already does this but it is averaged to work in most homes and any tweaking you would do would be small and probably not noticable.
ttan98 said:
Yes
the easiest way is to use the autoalign feature. If you don't have a mic (or input) you need to use a tape measure. The idea is that each foot = 1ms in delay. So you would delay your woofer the amount of distance they are in front of your CDs. However if your woofers are sluggish you may want to decrease the delay (or even delay the CDs) to tighten everything up. Eitherway you may have to use the phase adjustments to tweak things a bit.
The longer delays are generally used in live sound (remember this is pro gear) to time compensate speakers that may be placed deep into the audence. They would be delayed so that you wouldn't hear them untill the correct time. If this wasn't done you would hear the mains as an echo to these support speakers. At 100 feet thats 100ms or a 10th of a sec this would be very disorenting.
This is not a feature you are likely to use. You could use a seperate DCX to time align your surround speakers but that is probably overkill. To a large extent AC3 and DTS already does this but it is averaged to work in most homes and any tweaking you would do would be small and probably not noticable.
Re: How to Use DCX Delay Feature?
Hi
I have published a tutorial here : http://www.dcx2496.fr/en/calage_en.php
Hope it helps
TM
ttan98 said:
Hi
I have published a tutorial here : http://www.dcx2496.fr/en/calage_en.php
Hope it helps
TM
Transformer outputs and volume control Q
Hi,
I've read through this massive thread and have a question on an approach I'm working through.
My plan is to feed the DCX2496 via the digital input. The main speakers and amplifiers are located about 75 feet from where the source and DCX are.
The amplifiers accept consumer audio level signals via RCA single-ended inputs, therefore I need to do something for level matching and volume contol. The amplifiers have an input impedance of approximately 40k ohms.
Since I don't have a strong desire to modify the internals of the DCX, I'm planning on having the outputs of the DCX feed impedance matching transformers, similar to a Jensen JT-10KB. This has a 4:1 turns ratio. I accept that the internal circuitry of the DCX may not be the best possible.
I'm still mulling over a 6-gang MOP or something based on a digital pot, e.g., CS3318.
Here are the questions:
- Should the pot go on the primary (DCX output) or secondary (amplifier input) of the transformer?
- I can mount the transformers in steel enclosures either at the DCX, or remotely at the amplifiers. Which is best?
- Any suggestions on the pot resistance value?
Thanks for your suggestions and help!
Hi,
I've read through this massive thread and have a question on an approach I'm working through.
My plan is to feed the DCX2496 via the digital input. The main speakers and amplifiers are located about 75 feet from where the source and DCX are.
The amplifiers accept consumer audio level signals via RCA single-ended inputs, therefore I need to do something for level matching and volume contol. The amplifiers have an input impedance of approximately 40k ohms.
Since I don't have a strong desire to modify the internals of the DCX, I'm planning on having the outputs of the DCX feed impedance matching transformers, similar to a Jensen JT-10KB. This has a 4:1 turns ratio. I accept that the internal circuitry of the DCX may not be the best possible.
I'm still mulling over a 6-gang MOP or something based on a digital pot, e.g., CS3318.
Here are the questions:
- Should the pot go on the primary (DCX output) or secondary (amplifier input) of the transformer?
- I can mount the transformers in steel enclosures either at the DCX, or remotely at the amplifiers. Which is best?
- Any suggestions on the pot resistance value?
Thanks for your suggestions and help!