Ok, well I just hope I won't need to adjust it much once installed. Making a removable panel sounds a bit tricky at this stage 
Some more progress anyhow. Angled deflector has been installed now. It's 9mm ply but well supported by large pine blocks. I used allen head screws as clamps were tricky to mount the board to the blocks, they were temporary though, it's just the glue holding it now so I have a flat area to fix foam to.
The blocks are a bit rough as all I had to cut them was my jigsaw! Tried to router them from a template but it wasn't stable enough. Seems mostly in contact though, I used more angled blocks to clamp these blocks on initially, giving me flat surfaces to clamp against temporarily. It feels pretty solid to knock on.
I've just been preparing the 100mm studio foam. I know I wanted some behind the driver so that has been cut, admittedly crudely with straight edges and a kitchen knife, but acceptable! The angled deflector, if nothing else, has allowed more foam area to be installed behind the driver.
I have more foam left though, what is your advice for where in the cab to install it? I was thinking at the bottom, but am not certain. Mabye on one side will be better?
Some more progress anyhow. Angled deflector has been installed now. It's 9mm ply but well supported by large pine blocks. I used allen head screws as clamps were tricky to mount the board to the blocks, they were temporary though, it's just the glue holding it now so I have a flat area to fix foam to.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The blocks are a bit rough as all I had to cut them was my jigsaw! Tried to router them from a template but it wasn't stable enough. Seems mostly in contact though, I used more angled blocks to clamp these blocks on initially, giving me flat surfaces to clamp against temporarily. It feels pretty solid to knock on.
I've just been preparing the 100mm studio foam. I know I wanted some behind the driver so that has been cut, admittedly crudely with straight edges and a kitchen knife, but acceptable! The angled deflector, if nothing else, has allowed more foam area to be installed behind the driver.
I have more foam left though, what is your advice for where in the cab to install it? I was thinking at the bottom, but am not certain. Mabye on one side will be better?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I would continue lining the surfaces closest to the back of the woofer, so the sides and top, and maybe even the rear of the baffle itself if it was easy enough. It's looking really good so far...
Have you thought about any provisions for feet or outriggers? Such as threaded inserts or something?
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Ok, that sounds like a plan, the side walls are rather close to the driver so I suppose I ought to line them! I might have to cut the foam down a bit though to fit it in.
I am having some special feet made for this and similar smaller ones to go on the top section. Here's what they should be like, solid aluminium:
Allows the spikes to be beyond the bounds of the cabinet base for more stability, and I think they will look nicer. The nature of the part tends to keep it in place under the cabinet weight, but each will have a wood screw holding it. Expensive stuff, but hopefully worth it; these little details make a big difference imo
Big issue is "veneer". The top front baffle part is real wood, but the rest basically has to be a "fablon" type material, and with the dark one no longer available I still can't decide on what I want
This is looking the best so far, and I might be able to get 900mm wide material which will wrap right round
I am having some special feet made for this and similar smaller ones to go on the top section. Here's what they should be like, solid aluminium:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Allows the spikes to be beyond the bounds of the cabinet base for more stability, and I think they will look nicer
. The nature of the part tends to keep it in place under the cabinet weight, but each will have a wood screw holding it. Expensive stuff, but hopefully worth it; these little details make a big difference imo Big issue is "veneer". The top front baffle part is real wood, but the rest basically has to be a "fablon" type material, and with the dark one no longer available I still can't decide on what I want
This is looking the best so far, and I might be able to get 900mm wide material which will wrap right round
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regarding your feet: I feel you should mount them to the cabinets better than just one wood screw, as just simply tipping or moving the cabinet can put large sideways forces on one foot. Maybe also put a screw horizontally through the upright part to keep the foot from rocking or twisting and a gap appearing? Or redesign it to make it mounted to the cabinet better (like threading holes in it and screwing it on from the inside).
Also give yourself the option of using several types of feet: spikes (or cones), 'gliders,' and rubber feet, so you can explore the differences and compensate for different types of floors and building construction. Spikes aren't automatically better...
Also give yourself the option of using several types of feet: spikes (or cones), 'gliders,' and rubber feet, so you can explore the differences and compensate for different types of floors and building construction. Spikes aren't automatically better...
Thanks for your input! The parts are being made undrilled, so I can drill what I need to mount them. Perhaps 2 woodscrew holes (long allen head types as seen mounting the plywood deflector), or a machine thread and fixture from the inside (but I suspect the overlap is still mostly over the cabinet walls). It shouldn't come away from the cabinet side as the weight pushes it against it with a levering effect, or so a wooden mock up I made did. I will try to avoid moving these with spikes installed.
I plan spikes in the bottom ones which I will buy after and just fix to an M6 thread I will create in the aluminium. Since these will be on carpet this seems best? The top section ones will use adhesive rubber feet though, I'd actually like some clear ones like those which come with hammond enclosures. Ideally a bit more jelly than hard rubber too.
At the moment it's seeming like these cabinets won't be all that heavy anyhow, which is strangely dissapointing! There is a sand filled section of the front baffle planned though (the lower front baffle) though it will only be 18mm sand fill depth
I plan spikes in the bottom ones which I will buy after and just fix to an M6 thread I will create in the aluminium. Since these will be on carpet this seems best? The top section ones will use adhesive rubber feet though, I'd actually like some clear ones like those which come with hammond enclosures. Ideally a bit more jelly than hard rubber too.
At the moment it's seeming like these cabinets won't be all that heavy anyhow, which is strangely dissapointing! There is a sand filled section of the front baffle planned though (the lower front baffle) though it will only be 18mm sand fill depth
Thanks for the comments!
Bit more progress. Side panel is glued on. Not as well as I'd have liked, I figured I could do with about 6 more clamps to get really good contact at all points, but it is on nevertheless. I also prepared some more foam, tricky cutting it accross it's thickness but I managed to do it roughly to make these side absorbers (not glued in yet!):
There's a partial block under the top brace too not really seen here. I also have a bit left still which I will find locations for
After this photo I routered off the excess 9mm ply from all round. Now I shall be adding in the ribs on the other side panel and mabye adding struts tying some pairs together. Internal volume is rather dimimshed, probably around 30L only now! Don't know if the foam adds or takes away effective volume, lightweight BAF supposedly adds it by slowing the movement of air.
Already not looking forward to having to build another cabinet from scratch
Bit more progress. Side panel is glued on. Not as well as I'd have liked, I figured I could do with about 6 more clamps to get really good contact at all points, but it is on nevertheless. I also prepared some more foam, tricky cutting it accross it's thickness but I managed to do it roughly to make these side absorbers (not glued in yet!):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
There's a partial block under the top brace too not really seen here. I also have a bit left still which I will find locations for
After this photo I routered off the excess 9mm ply from all round. Now I shall be adding in the ribs on the other side panel and mabye adding struts tying some pairs together. Internal volume is rather dimimshed, probably around 30L only now! Don't know if the foam adds or takes away effective volume, lightweight BAF supposedly adds it by slowing the movement of air.
Already not looking forward to having to build another cabinet from scratch
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Been a while! A few updates are in order
I am now (nearly) seeing double!
Unlike the top sections, I didn't build these alongside each other, so most my time has gone into building the second one you see on the right. It needs a few internal beams, the little ply braces as you see on the left one (felt they might be of some use), and to router off the excess ply.
Also, the metal feet are ready! I picked them up some weeks ago and drilled them myself:
There are 8 like this and 6 mini ones for the top sections. Feel very sturdy, at least in side to side motion when fixed (or actually just resting on) the bottom of the cabs:
Next is to make the front baffles, for which I will need real wood in some places. Plan is 9mm base, then top has 27mm real wood and lower part has 18mm MDF+9mm MDF. The slight thickness of the fablon material on the bottom might upset the theoretical match here though, will have to see how close tolerance the real wood is. I will also need to purchase a 1/2" roundover bit which I have planned
I am now (nearly) seeing double!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Unlike the top sections, I didn't build these alongside each other, so most my time has gone into building the second one you see on the right. It needs a few internal beams, the little ply braces as you see on the left one (felt they might be of some use), and to router off the excess ply.
Also, the metal feet are ready! I picked them up some weeks ago and drilled them myself:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
There are 8 like this and 6 mini ones for the top sections. Feel very sturdy, at least in side to side motion when fixed (or actually just resting on) the bottom of the cabs:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Next is to make the front baffles, for which I will need real wood in some places. Plan is 9mm base, then top has 27mm real wood and lower part has 18mm MDF+9mm MDF. The slight thickness of the fablon material on the bottom might upset the theoretical match here though, will have to see how close tolerance the real wood is. I will also need to purchase a 1/2" roundover bit which I have planned
Glue in cold weather
Not any progress to show unfortunately, I'm stuck a bit at the moment, need to figure out exactly what I must do next.
I have a concern however. These cabinets are sitting out in our unheated garage. We are having frosts overnight sometimes now so I'm concerned this might take it's toll on the glue joints? I have always used this glue:
Adhesives and Sealants for the DIY, Trade & Stationery Markets
The bottle says "for use from 5-30 celsius". Obviously, it'll be getting below 5c now, but do you think that's just the temperate it can dry at? Apparently it's PVA based but incorporates resin too. It hasn't shattered apart or anything and feels solid, but I am concerned it may be weakening it
Not any progress to show unfortunately, I'm stuck a bit at the moment, need to figure out exactly what I must do next.
I have a concern however. These cabinets are sitting out in our unheated garage. We are having frosts overnight sometimes now so I'm concerned this might take it's toll on the glue joints? I have always used this glue:
Adhesives and Sealants for the DIY, Trade & Stationery Markets
The bottle says "for use from 5-30 celsius". Obviously, it'll be getting below 5c now, but do you think that's just the temperate it can dry at? Apparently it's PVA based but incorporates resin too. It hasn't shattered apart or anything and feels solid, but I am concerned it may be weakening it
The bottle says "for use from 5-30 celsius". Obviously, it'll be getting below 5c now, but do you think that's just the temperate it can dry at? Apparently it's PVA based but incorporates resin too. It hasn't shattered apart or anything and feels solid, but I am concerned it may be weakening it
Hi, Good progress!
That's the temperature you need to use the glue in, once it's dry it will be unaffected by cold. Keep the glue from freezing in the bottle also by storing it in a heated place.
That's great, I shall bring the bottle indoors then and not worry about the cabs. Being from Canada I can be sure you've had experience with frosts
Where I am at the moment is the front baffle is basically ready to go on, but I am at a sticking point where I must install the rear connectors before it can go on, and to do that I must really "veneer" the back panel first. So I need to seal that, which this PVA mixed with water is not doing, hence I need to obtain the proper Rustins MDF sealer which did a great job on the top sections, I need a smooth/shiny surface for the adhesive vinyl to stick on. Then I can make progress on the baffle!
Where I am at the moment is the front baffle is basically ready to go on, but I am at a sticking point where I must install the rear connectors before it can go on, and to do that I must really "veneer" the back panel first. So I need to seal that, which this PVA mixed with water is not doing, hence I need to obtain the proper Rustins MDF sealer which did a great job on the top sections, I need a smooth/shiny surface for the adhesive vinyl to stick on. Then I can make progress on the baffle!
another question!
Ok, not really any progress to show unfortunately, hopefully soon though. I have the MDF sealer and it works as expected, so I can get applying that to all of the cabinet soon. I've been adding in extra 18mm boards on the bottom of each cab, primarily so the feet mounting screws don't thread directly into edge grain.
I've changed my intended finish once again! I now plan on having high gloss black with the real wooden inserts probably being polished. The finish will be achieved with vinyl covering rather than a paint job, I certainly couldn't do a good paint job. Here's a mock up, which is a bit irrelevant as I can't make it show a gloss finish
Doing a glossy finish brings me onto my question. Can anyone reccomend a woodworkers putty?. The sort of thing you'd use to fill in screw heads if you had used screws during construction. I have wood filler but it isn't right for this I find; I want something that can smooth over small irregularities and gaps, almost like a wall plaster, and can be sanded easily. I'm going to need a very flat surface to apply the high gloss vinyl to, which most of it is, but some of the joins arn't perfect
Ok, not really any progress to show unfortunately, hopefully soon though. I have the MDF sealer and it works as expected, so I can get applying that to all of the cabinet soon. I've been adding in extra 18mm boards on the bottom of each cab, primarily so the feet mounting screws don't thread directly into edge grain.
I've changed my intended finish once again! I now plan on having high gloss black with the real wooden inserts probably being polished. The finish will be achieved with vinyl covering rather than a paint job, I certainly couldn't do a good paint job. Here's a mock up, which is a bit irrelevant as I can't make it show a gloss finish
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Doing a glossy finish brings me onto my question. Can anyone reccomend a woodworkers putty?. The sort of thing you'd use to fill in screw heads if you had used screws during construction. I have wood filler but it isn't right for this I find; I want something that can smooth over small irregularities and gaps, almost like a wall plaster, and can be sanded easily. I'm going to need a very flat surface to apply the high gloss vinyl to, which most of it is, but some of the joins arn't perfect
Ok, time for an update.
I recieved the black gloss vinyl and had the back prepared (sealed etc) to take it. I put it on last night, went on quite easily, and today have been cutting off the excess with a sharp knife and steel rule.
The result is glossy but not very smooth, you can see reflections but it's like looking into slightly unsettled water. These photos arn't great but sort of show it:
I will try to get a better result on the sides and front (which will be one piece wrapped around), I just needed the back done so I could fit the connectors and wiring, which would not be accessible with the front baffle installed. I may have to invest in an electric sander, not sure what a cheap one will be like though!
I recieved the black gloss vinyl and had the back prepared (sealed etc) to take it. I put it on last night, went on quite easily, and today have been cutting off the excess with a sharp knife and steel rule.
The result is glossy but not very smooth, you can see reflections but it's like looking into slightly unsettled water. These photos arn't great but sort of show it:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I will try to get a better result on the sides and front (which will be one piece wrapped around), I just needed the back done so I could fit the connectors and wiring, which would not be accessible with the front baffle installed. I may have to invest in an electric sander, not sure what a cheap one will be like though!
Ok, I'm at the point where I can fix the baffle on. I have an electric sander and have been going over the edges where the baffle will glue on to. However, once it's on I will not be able to make adjustments inside below the top brace. The wiring is installed and I'm happy with it, but I am unsure on the stuffing:
Is this too much? It's a light fill throughout, mostly lambswool. Not just on the walls, but not packed in at all, just placed loosely inside. The foam at the bottom is just at the front, to help reduce top to bottom resonances (hopefully). I have heard overfilling can reduce the bass or "suck out life" from the sound, but it doesn't seem like that should happen? Noticeable resonances will certainly bother me though.
A listening test with the sub-baffle shown clamped on may be possible, but difficult. Any insight sought!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Is this too much? It's a light fill throughout, mostly lambswool. Not just on the walls, but not packed in at all, just placed loosely inside. The foam at the bottom is just at the front, to help reduce top to bottom resonances (hopefully). I have heard overfilling can reduce the bass or "suck out life" from the sound, but it doesn't seem like that should happen? Noticeable resonances will certainly bother me though.
A listening test with the sub-baffle shown clamped on may be possible, but difficult. Any insight sought!
Well, for better or worse it's now glued on
Cold weather coming up means I won't be able to do much glueing and I really need to get some progress on these while I have the free time. I guess if it's really wrong I can fish bits out (they are small bits not one big roll in each section) with something or stuff more in with a rod
Cold weather coming up means I won't be able to do much glueing and I really need to get some progress on these while I have the free time. I guess if it's really wrong I can fish bits out (they are small bits not one big roll in each section) with something or stuff more in with a rod
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