As you can see from the pics attached the B1 board and transistors are from NP's First Watt store. The components are the standard ones used for these builds, all of it ordered from Digikey. If there is interest I can post a BOM but I worked off other BOM's, already posted.We might be interested as well..... if you can share those info, other people might appreciate.
The chassis is my own design. It is fabricated of 3" aluminum T-track sides, 1'8" 6061 plate aluminum bottom and back. The faceplate is 1/4" 6061, chamfered and polished. The case exterior measurements are 12" W x 8" D x 3 1/8" H. The faceplate is 14" W x 4" H.
I purchase the aluminum plate, locally, through a distributor that sells metal offcut sheets by the pound. I cut it all on my table saw, using a non-ferrous metal blade and coolant. All the fasteners are stainless except for the T-track nuts. I am working on a source for those. The feet were purchased online, they are an aluminum clad rubber 5/8" H x 1 7/8" diameter.
Thank you, if there is interest I might be able to cut up some more chassis. I'm not looking to turn this into a profit event, I have other sources of income. Included with the attached is apic of the finished B1 with a lexan top cover. The lexan look is starting to grow on me.
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Soldered in some caps today, and did some case drawings.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Banned
Joined 2002
got them off ebay from a guy in the states at christmas time 20$ each shipped
so i bought both They are noble. Never used, brand new
I bought both, because i wanted to put one in the B1, and use one as a passive pre-amp so i can see the difference in the b1 and light speed and just a passive pot.
This is an update to my previous post in this thread, I just received a 50k TKD volume control from Parts Conn. , The pot looks and feels high quality, I hooked it up , And the sound is very good.
The preamp sounds so good , That I decided to give it attention to details as much as I can, So I upgraded the extension shaft, This one is from DIY hifi supply, It isolates the pot from the tension between it and the chassis, Also makes the feel of the pot really smooth, Compared to the rigid type of coupling.
The preamp sounds so good , That I decided to give it attention to details as much as I can, So I upgraded the extension shaft, This one is from DIY hifi supply, It isolates the pot from the tension between it and the chassis, Also makes the feel of the pot really smooth, Compared to the rigid type of coupling.
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Thanks,
I spoke with Nelson earlier this afternoon and he told me the same.
I just got mine up and running,it sounds good,although I am
using 12 volt power supply, until 18 volt gets here tommorow,
I am assuming it will sound even cleaner then.
I just finished my build, which I was supposed to have done LOOONG ago; you guys know how it's like..
It's a P2P build, because I thought "Hey, how bad can this be?". The actual B1 is actually microscopic compared to the rest of the build. I'll get a few pics online soon. And I'm never, ever, soldering a source selection switch and all its wiring, ever again
I've modified it a bit for the parts I had in my bin, but it's still the same thing. 3+1 4700uF Nichicon FW caps, bypassed with 1+1 Wima 6.8uF caps, ~2ohm R1, 0.1uF Wima bypass caps directly next to every transistor pair, 220ohm resistor on the output instead of 1k (it's stable and I prefer the lower impedance).
Transistors are on high Idss, IIRC it was around 11, they're matched and pressed together in a pair. Voltage is at 18V from a good quality wall-wart. Resistors in the signal path are matched with my multimeter.
I'm using 2uF caps on input and 10uF caps on output, both are Obligato Film-in-Oil. Those caps are fantastic! They're cheap, have high values, up to 630V and if they do something to the sound, I can't hear it. Awesome, awesome caps. They're fantastically big though, they take most of the space for my B1, I didn't know they'd be that size when I bought them.
Two things bother me a bit though:
Testing with headphones, I *seem* to get lower volume from the B1 than from my Bantam DAC. Is that because of the different output impedances of the DAC and the B1? Headphones are about 32ohm, so they're quite the load.
The other is that I appear to have a small amount of crosstalk between the channels and I can't find out why on earth would that happen, so far. I only had the pot as a culprit, but it's a Blue Velvet ALPS 50k and I've double-checked it and it's all OK.
Oh, should I be grounding my case directly to the ground of the PSU? It's a steel case from a KVM switch.
It's a P2P build, because I thought "Hey, how bad can this be?". The actual B1 is actually microscopic compared to the rest of the build. I'll get a few pics online soon. And I'm never, ever, soldering a source selection switch and all its wiring, ever again
I've modified it a bit for the parts I had in my bin, but it's still the same thing. 3+1 4700uF Nichicon FW caps, bypassed with 1+1 Wima 6.8uF caps, ~2ohm R1, 0.1uF Wima bypass caps directly next to every transistor pair, 220ohm resistor on the output instead of 1k (it's stable and I prefer the lower impedance).
Transistors are on high Idss, IIRC it was around 11, they're matched and pressed together in a pair. Voltage is at 18V from a good quality wall-wart. Resistors in the signal path are matched with my multimeter.
I'm using 2uF caps on input and 10uF caps on output, both are Obligato Film-in-Oil. Those caps are fantastic! They're cheap, have high values, up to 630V and if they do something to the sound, I can't hear it. Awesome, awesome caps. They're fantastically big though, they take most of the space for my B1, I didn't know they'd be that size when I bought them.
Two things bother me a bit though:
Testing with headphones, I *seem* to get lower volume from the B1 than from my Bantam DAC. Is that because of the different output impedances of the DAC and the B1? Headphones are about 32ohm, so they're quite the load.
The other is that I appear to have a small amount of crosstalk between the channels and I can't find out why on earth would that happen, so far. I only had the pot as a culprit, but it's a Blue Velvet ALPS 50k and I've double-checked it and it's all OK.
Oh, should I be grounding my case directly to the ground of the PSU? It's a steel case from a KVM switch.
Would you mind sharing the design of your power supply? I've been using batteries but thought I'd try something else.
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