Binding Posts
I like something to secure the connection, so if I move the speakers, or someone snags a wire sweeping or walking, it's still held in place. But it also did make some sense not to listen through the length of the binding post.
I just drilled small holes above the posts, ran the internal wires outside the box through them, and hooked both internal and speaker wires together at the posts. The connection is bare wire to twisted bare wire, but the two are clamped with the post.
I just used blu-tak or equivalent to seal the holes both sides.
Tim
I like something to secure the connection, so if I move the speakers, or someone snags a wire sweeping or walking, it's still held in place. But it also did make some sense not to listen through the length of the binding post.
I just drilled small holes above the posts, ran the internal wires outside the box through them, and hooked both internal and speaker wires together at the posts. The connection is bare wire to twisted bare wire, but the two are clamped with the post.
I just used blu-tak or equivalent to seal the holes both sides.
Tim
Actually I think I would prefer my cables to come undone if snagged, think about it. If you have an expensive pair of speakers/ amplifier and something happens to pull at one end. If the cables can move what will happen? they come loose and the speaker/amplifier is not pulled with the cable.
However if the cable is not going to budge you could pull the speaker off its stand, pull the amp off the rack, or damage something by just pulling the thing hard and braking something off.
However if the cable is not going to budge you could pull the speaker off its stand, pull the amp off the rack, or damage something by just pulling the thing hard and braking something off.
chris
So we're clear...
You may use the binding posts in one of 4 ways: a) secure both sets of bare and twisted wires into the post opening as one, and clamp, as I described, if the opening is big enough; b) split away each conductor and secure only the individual + and - speaker wires from the amp up through each binding post opening, even if insulated, with a couple of inches extending through, clamp, then wire nut the internal wires, once through the wall, to them; c) internal wires extended through wall and through the binding posts, then wire nutted to speaker cable(at least you remove the risk of tearing soldered wires loose from the drivers); or the conventional inside/outside separation.
I mention this only because I like bare wire to bare wire twisted connections, but secured somehow. There are also those little wire staples you can nail down consisting of two nails and a bridge of plastic between them which could be used to hold the insulated 12 Ga. I use the staples internally in the enclosure.
I don't really think all of this makes a tremendous difference. I still use convential posts in the usual manner, and can't tell any difference. But, it is mentioned as an experiment or alternative.
Tim
So we're clear...
You may use the binding posts in one of 4 ways: a) secure both sets of bare and twisted wires into the post opening as one, and clamp, as I described, if the opening is big enough; b) split away each conductor and secure only the individual + and - speaker wires from the amp up through each binding post opening, even if insulated, with a couple of inches extending through, clamp, then wire nut the internal wires, once through the wall, to them; c) internal wires extended through wall and through the binding posts, then wire nutted to speaker cable(at least you remove the risk of tearing soldered wires loose from the drivers); or the conventional inside/outside separation.
I mention this only because I like bare wire to bare wire twisted connections, but secured somehow. There are also those little wire staples you can nail down consisting of two nails and a bridge of plastic between them which could be used to hold the insulated 12 Ga. I use the staples internally in the enclosure.
I don't really think all of this makes a tremendous difference. I still use convential posts in the usual manner, and can't tell any difference. But, it is mentioned as an experiment or alternative.
Tim
Nuuk,
I really enjoyed your site. The evolution of the gainclones, the enclosure handiwork, which was terrific, and finally the OB projects were all very nicely done and explained. Very nice, indeed. I think it will inspire a lot of diy beginners to get their saws and soldering irons going. Hats off!
Tim
I really enjoyed your site. The evolution of the gainclones, the enclosure handiwork, which was terrific, and finally the OB projects were all very nicely done and explained. Very nice, indeed. I think it will inspire a lot of diy beginners to get their saws and soldering irons going. Hats off!
Tim
Thanks Tim,
I am one of those people that never seems to have enough time to do all the things that I want to. Consequently, I value my time greatly.
Now I figured that if I spend loads of my 'valuable' time working out how to do something, that time is less 'costly' if ithe results of my efforts benefit more than just me.
Of course, you could argue that the time spent on the site could be used to do something else but I enjoy it; and the feedback, like yours, makes it worthwhile!
I think most of us are like that.Nuuk said:
My big concern about wires with posts is the point where the wire enters the speaker, if you put stress on it (for some godforsaken reason, ie: tripping over the wire) you can rip strands of thread, and due to the permanancy of the wire installation, it seems to me that you may wind up have to open the whole box to replace the wire out of the box, hope it helps,
Matt
I'd mount short shafted posts (individual posts) above or below a pass-through for the speaker wire coming out of the cabinet and connect the afore mentioned wire with the cable coming from your amplifier in the posts (bare wire clamped down via the post).
It won't give you a straight path per se but you won't have to listen through the shaft of the post.
It won't give you a straight path per se but you won't have to listen through the shaft of the post.
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