Nice work AT. I applaud your persistence. Smart move not using the Celestion.
I'm worried about your tweeter though if you're feeding it the full bandwidth signal. I would think that sooner or later it's going to get damaged. Mind you I have no experience with a piezo tweeter.....
If you're going to build again, start familiarizing yourself with some of the free simulation software - you'll be so much further ahead next time around.
Cheers
I'm worried about your tweeter though if you're feeding it the full bandwidth signal. I would think that sooner or later it's going to get damaged. Mind you I have no experience with a piezo tweeter.....
If you're going to build again, start familiarizing yourself with some of the free simulation software - you'll be so much further ahead next time around.
Cheers
First, thanks for the encouraging words.
Then, I am not afraid for the tweeters, they area very rugged, and anyway their impedance goes up in the kOhms under a couple of KHz. They can be approx. modeled as capacitors of about 0.3 uF.
About the box, I DID simulate it in WinISD. With the 20L volume it should resonate around 55 Hz with the slot port I have done. BTW the port is 18 cm (ab. 7") deep in a 23 cm (ab 9 1/2 ") deep box.
The main limiting factor is, as somebody forecasted, the XMax of the Aura, but I believe I am not losing more than a couple of dB.
Keep in mind that the source will be filtered out a t 40 Hz more or less.
The next step would be to maake a new baffle (and possibly retune the port) for the 8" Monacor. But the summer season is coming so fast that I do not know if I can do it this year. Now I am concentrating on the few electronics that I have to put on board (mic pre + mix and P/S+ battery charger)
But, thanks to the help of the Forum, I am aready very pleased with the build (of course...
) and the artists are as well (that´s not so EZ ) )
Then, I am not afraid for the tweeters, they area very rugged, and anyway their impedance goes up in the kOhms under a couple of KHz. They can be approx. modeled as capacitors of about 0.3 uF.
About the box, I DID simulate it in WinISD. With the 20L volume it should resonate around 55 Hz with the slot port I have done. BTW the port is 18 cm (ab. 7") deep in a 23 cm (ab 9 1/2 ") deep box.
The main limiting factor is, as somebody forecasted, the XMax of the Aura, but I believe I am not losing more than a couple of dB.
Keep in mind that the source will be filtered out a t 40 Hz more or less.
The next step would be to maake a new baffle (and possibly retune the port) for the 8" Monacor. But the summer season is coming so fast that I do not know if I can do it this year. Now I am concentrating on the few electronics that I have to put on board (mic pre + mix and P/S+ battery charger)
But, thanks to the help of the Forum, I am aready very pleased with the build (of course...
) and the artists are as well (that´s not so EZ ) )
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Sweet.
The next things you need to become comfortable with are frd and zma files.
You'll need to use:
1) SPL Trace
2) a diffraction simulation program
3) something to combine responses and then
4) PCD to design a xo.
You will need Excel however for some of those.
Look here - FRD Consortium
and here - jbagby
Best of luck to you.
The next things you need to become comfortable with are frd and zma files.
You'll need to use:
1) SPL Trace
2) a diffraction simulation program
3) something to combine responses and then
4) PCD to design a xo.
You will need Excel however for some of those.
Look here - FRD Consortium
and here - jbagby
Best of luck to you.
Glad to be of help.
When done properly, the simulation software, although not perfect, is pretty accurate these days. The biggest margin of error comes from the inconsistencies between the manufacturer's TS parameters and the actual parameters of the drivers you have in your hands. It helps to pick brands that are known for the accuracy of their data (Tang Band can sometimes be a little off). Better still to get the data from some other reliable source - for example Zaph|Audio - and of course the best is to measure the parameters yourself after the drivers are broken in (although this last option requires even more time and money).
Work your way through some of those programs and ask questions when you get stuck. You already know how to do the actual building part. You seem to understand box alignments and it looks like you at least have a grasp of electronics and xo's. But you've sort of been shooting in the dark. This way, you'll know exactly what you're aiming for and exactly where you're going to end up with.
Cheers
When done properly, the simulation software, although not perfect, is pretty accurate these days. The biggest margin of error comes from the inconsistencies between the manufacturer's TS parameters and the actual parameters of the drivers you have in your hands. It helps to pick brands that are known for the accuracy of their data (Tang Band can sometimes be a little off). Better still to get the data from some other reliable source - for example Zaph|Audio - and of course the best is to measure the parameters yourself after the drivers are broken in (although this last option requires even more time and money).
Work your way through some of those programs and ask questions when you get stuck. You already know how to do the actual building part. You seem to understand box alignments and it looks like you at least have a grasp of electronics and xo's. But you've sort of been shooting in the dark. This way, you'll know exactly what you're aiming for and exactly where you're going to end up with.
Cheers
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