This shouldn't be too hard...I'm thinking you can drill a pilot hole in the middle of the cone and slowly, carefully enlarge it...how depends on the material, I bet it's very thin, I'd try a very sharp exacto or scalpel, that way there won't be any shavings in the VC gap. If you go slowly enough the pressure from the blade shouldn't distort anything...but I'm only guessing at how 'soft' the cone material is.
Illusus said:I'd try a very sharp exacto or scalpel, that way there won't be any shavings in the VC gap. If you go slowly enough the pressure from the blade shouldn't distort anything...but I'm only guessing at how 'soft' the cone material is.
pretty much the approach i'll start with... once the 1st one is off i'll know if a better approach is worth attempting.
dave
I also have some surgical tools that may work. I often use them for nibbling thin metal, they are very well made and the ergonomics are brilliant, very articulate...as to be expected with surgical equip.
If the surplus shop still has some I'll buy a couple extra pairs to share.
If the surplus shop still has some I'll buy a couple extra pairs to share.
It doesn't have the HF response of the JX92S or the SPL capability but it does make for a very nice personal speaker. I use them for PC speakers.
http://www.timn8er.com/Aurasound NS3.htm
http://www.timn8er.com/Aurasound NS3.htm
jeremyg said:i built those as well....specs right off your site...useing them as mains right now in my tiny living room...and am very impressed...plenty of output for me with out a doubt
jeremy
tmblack said:They seem to have a smooth response. Do they sound much better than tradional paper cones?
Tom
I don't believe they are actual aluminum cones in the tradition of Jordan or Bandor, rather they appear to be treated paper very much like the Tangband W3-871S. The coating makes them stiffer while adding little mass which works very well. They don't have the "paper" sound that lesser drivers do.
Originally posted by Timn8ter
rather they appear to be treated paper very much like the Tangband W3-871S.
The coating is a fairly substantial layer of aluminum. They are going to take a dremel and no doubt some work fishing stuff out of the gap.
dave
Originally posted by pinkmouse
Might it be easier to remove the cone completely before you start?
And keep it in a condition to enable me to reassemble it -- not me...
dave
dave,
Where I work, when we want to remove material without it falling into a hole, we turn the thing hole-side-up and it falls away from the hole. Just a suggestion.
Anyway, is it too thick/ durable to cut with a new scalpel or xacto blade? I guess so if you mention a dremel. Try a low speed with a big toothy bit to scratch out the initial hole, maybe you won't get as many chunks that way. maybe mount it sideways in a vise and use a low-power vacuum to keep the dust out. Don't forget the goggles!
David
Where I work, when we want to remove material without it falling into a hole, we turn the thing hole-side-up and it falls away from the hole. Just a suggestion.
Anyway, is it too thick/ durable to cut with a new scalpel or xacto blade? I guess so if you mention a dremel. Try a low speed with a big toothy bit to scratch out the initial hole, maybe you won't get as many chunks that way. maybe mount it sideways in a vise and use a low-power vacuum to keep the dust out. Don't forget the goggles!
David
Originally posted by Stocker
Where I work, when we want to remove material without it falling into a hole, we turn the thing hole-side-up and it falls away from the hole. Just a suggestion.
I've got that down... with a dremel some of the bits will likely be given enuff velocity to go away from gravity... the coil hoil is deep enuff that i can jam a foam plug in before operating -- that will also help hold the cone in place.
Anyway, is it too thick/ durable to cut with a new scalpel or xacto blade? I guess so if you mention a dremel. Try a low speed with a big toothy bit to scratch out the initial hole, maybe you won't get as many chunks that way. maybe mount it sideways in a vise and use a low-power vacuum to keep the dust out. Don't forget the goggles!
I was able to carve away an initial hole with a scalpel -- going thru a few blades, but there is not enuff control to get a clean edge near the voice coil. If i'm lucky some of the early FE103 prototype plugs are going to fit.
dave
Originally posted by Stocker
Nearly a week later Dave, any new news?
It has been a crazy week... I'm going to dig out the dremel tomorrow or Aturday and see how that works out.
dave
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Full Range
- Aura 3"...phase plug?