It's the one supplied by you Peter. Hammond one.
thank you.
thank you.
Peter Daniel said:It's hard to advise without seeing the actual transformer. It may be a unit with dual primaries, in that case you connect them in parallel. The best is to find transformer manufacturer wiring diagram and see what they recommend. It is AC/AC.
Regarding the polarity in pdf file for C11: although BG NX caps are not polar, they still peforme better with a specific orientation in a circuit, I prefer short pin on +.
I forgot I sent you one Here's the link showing connections ( for 115V mains use parallel configuration of primaries): http://www.hammondmfg.com/5CHook.htm
The ground connection on the AC socket should be connected to the chassis.
The ground connection on the AC socket should be connected to the chassis.
-=Zepplock=- said:I also should use parallel for seondaries, right?
Secondaries are not in parallel, both are used separately. On Green board you have two pairs of connections marked as J1 and J2, this is where secondaries go (4 wires).
G1 and G2 are optional ground connect points; in case you use copper shield on the chips, this is where you can ground it.
rabbitz said:Most of the DAC's I've seen including Peter's that I'm currently burning in, use EI or similar transformers instead of toroidals. Any reason for this? Inrush current at start up? Nor have I seen LED's on the cases.
The EI transformers should be theoretically better than toroids with regards to capacitance and windings isolation. The main reason I'm using one though is that it fits the board better ( I neededd PCB mount type that fits inside 3 x 2" tubing). Inrush current is not an issue here.
I don't need the LEDs as the DAC is permanently on, and I can hear when it locks
Peter Daniel said:Patek case stays the same, but I might develop cheaper line of monoblocks using those ATI panels, I really like them.
That is a great looking case. A pair of matching monos flanking that PS would look great, and probably come off a lot faster and cheaper than the Pateks I suspect.
-Rob
rabbitz said:Nor have I seen LED's on the cases.
There are those who believe LEDs generate audible noise in audio circuits. Ric Schultz at TweakAudio.com seems to have popularized the trend of omitting the LED in a DAC years ago with his EVS Millennium.
-Rob
1000uf 50v Black Gates
Hi Peter,
Are those 1000uf 50v Black Gates in the Patek supply the FK or Standard versions?
TIA,
Rob
Peter Daniel said:Here how it looks inside. As you can see, there are so many applications for the boards included with the kits
Hi Peter,
Are those 1000uf 50v Black Gates in the Patek supply the FK or Standard versions?
TIA,
Rob
Peter Daniel said:Patek case stays the same, but I might develop cheaper line of monoblocks using those ATI panels, I really like them.
i just got a ati price list good price for that model
I'm using Freud, Non Ferrous Metal Blade ( 10", 80 teeth). It is good for aluminum and copper, works well with wood and plexiglass as well. Although I have special blades for those materials, when the job isn't big I don't bother to change from metal blade, which is usually mounted on my saw.
You can find that blade at Busy Bee or Home Depot.
You can find that blade at Busy Bee or Home Depot.
Woohoo. I did it.
Soldered everything. Plugged it in - nothing. Checked the voltage. Everything OK on the board. Then I realized that I don't have 5V on the optical input for Vcc. Turned out I soldered Vcc to the wrong leg - resoldered and I HAVE SOUND!
Thank you Peter for greak kit and your patience.
I couldn't play music loud (fisnished at 2am yesterday) but the sound has no hum/noice. Also the high's are more clear - comparing to my Pioneer CD player DAC.
Now I need enclosere. Urgh.
Soldered everything. Plugged it in - nothing. Checked the voltage. Everything OK on the board. Then I realized that I don't have 5V on the optical input for Vcc. Turned out I soldered Vcc to the wrong leg - resoldered and I HAVE SOUND!
Thank you Peter for greak kit and your patience.
I couldn't play music loud (fisnished at 2am yesterday) but the sound has no hum/noice. Also the high's are more clear - comparing to my Pioneer CD player DAC.
Now I need enclosere. Urgh.
Banned
Joined 2002
-=Zepplock=- said:
Now I need enclosere. Urgh.
Peter has some nice chassis and Really well built.
Peter,
I wanted to thank you for the old thread, here , about how to cut metal.
I purchased a Freud non-ferrous blade a couple weeks ago for about $45. I finally got to use it this weekend, my first time cutting metal, and WOW! It worked out really well. I have very few tools, but the cuts I made with it were amazing, or atleast for an amatuer like myself. I have only been using my table saw for some, I don't know, 1 year now. Just about all of my cuts were perfect, for my standards, if only I were as good with my drill press (I made a few mistakes on my drill press). Below is a picture of a 4" corner post (sorry my camera is bad at taking close up pictures). It is hard to read, but my caliper says exactly 4.00".
By the way, before I head off to school next year, I would like to purchase a DAC.
Thanks,
Josh
I wanted to thank you for the old thread, here , about how to cut metal.
I purchased a Freud non-ferrous blade a couple weeks ago for about $45. I finally got to use it this weekend, my first time cutting metal, and WOW! It worked out really well. I have very few tools, but the cuts I made with it were amazing, or atleast for an amatuer like myself. I have only been using my table saw for some, I don't know, 1 year now. Just about all of my cuts were perfect, for my standards, if only I were as good with my drill press (I made a few mistakes on my drill press). Below is a picture of a 4" corner post (sorry my camera is bad at taking close up pictures). It is hard to read, but my caliper says exactly 4.00".
By the way, before I head off to school next year, I would like to purchase a DAC.
Thanks,
Josh
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Peter Daniel said:Those are STD version. BG N 100/50 are directly at the chips.
Peter,
I've been very interested the way you modified the Patek's power supply.
I purchased 5 LM3875 kits from you when you were selling them with Brian. So far I've populated one set of boards with the premium components (1000uF Blackagate Std at the chips), but I haven't had the time or tools to build the chassis to my liking. I look forward to the day it's up an running, though.
For the next set of boards I populate, I'd like to try the arrangement that you built into the Patek. I understand that the BG N 100/50 caps go where the 1000uF caps normally sit. But then do the 1000uF caps then take the place of the 4.7uF caps on the rectifier board? Or is there a different way that the 1000uF caps are connected?
I can't tell you how impressed I am with how your Patek SE looks. If the Patek SE had been around when I bought my Gaincard, it would be sitting on my shelf making music instead of the GC. It's very nice, indeed.
Best,
KT
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