Audiolab 8000C - modify or start again?

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Jump to Latest
A

AndrewT

R.I.P.
Joined 2004
Last edited:
B

bluetomgold

Member
Joined 2003
AndrewT said:
eutectic has no "pasty" range.
solid-liquid phase diagrams: tin and lead
vs
Traditional solder materials
It solidifies at the melting/freezing temperature, instead of becoming a paste, that when moved results in a bad joint.

Pasty solder suits Plumbers who want to wipe a pipe joint, not electronics where electrical reliability is more important.
Click to expand...

OK, thanks!

I will probably use up what I have first - it does sound good (would be brilliant for fiddly stuff like arm wires and cartridge tags) but with good soldering technique 60/40 is fine, and soldering new caps on a PCB like this (with loads of space) ought to be a piece of cake. If there's a worry, it will be damaging the track on the PCB while I'm desoldering them (but I've done a fair bit of this before so I'm sure it'll be fine!)
 
B

bluetomgold

Member
Joined 2003
Been through the capacitors today and got a list of values/quantities.

18358588376_2066b7c1be_h.jpg


Also found the schematics here:
audiolab 8000c pre amplifier schematic Download page :: Schematics Unlimited

I can see that the cost of Silimics is going to add up fairly quickly, so I may go back to the original plan of using Panasonic FMs. Will check prices and do some sums later.

What would be a good choice for the PSU parts of the circuit (including the large reservoir cap)? Audiolab used bog standard Elnas as opposed to the Duorex ones used elsewhere.

Would it be worth beefing up the value of the main res cap or is 10000uF plenty?

Any other thoughts?
 
M Gregg

M Gregg

Disabled Account
Joined 2010
I would stick to the stock values,

Replace the main PSU cap with a new one Panasonic is OK.

Use the Silmic's in the areas you use most.
I know it seems strange but update the output section first, you use it with everything then have a listen..

Don't just blitz everything..do it a bit at a time..if you don't like how its going you can go back.


I have downloaded the schematic from the link its not very clear..PSU seems to be missing..struggling to read the cap numbers..

Does anyone have a link to a circuit diagram better than this..?

NB the bit about the car is that solder is a component..This takes it a bit far but it gives you an idea how people agonise over it..:D

http://jimmyauw.com/2011/12/20/mund...er-gold-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-129204

I don't have any problem with solder if I run out and I have some multicore in the cupboard..I order some cardas and wait for it to arrive then fit the parts..:D

Regards
M. Gregg
 
Last edited:
M Gregg

M Gregg

Disabled Account
Joined 2010
Change the PSU cap,

Have a listen..then the output stage...then any Electrolytics in the signal path..

You can then get a feel for how the Audiolab is changing..if at all..

Ie if the caps aren't shot all you will hear is the upgrade of the cap type..

If the caps are shot you will hear a bigger improvement in clarity..

So one section at a time..

Now some people will just blitz it..it might be OK..or you might hate it..your choice..:)
If you fit silmics in the output you will get a feel for how they "sound"..you might prefer the Panasonic..

Servisol 10.. is good on contacts..don't use WD40..

(I'm doing it again..dominating the thread)..let others have an input first see what ideas you get..

Regards
M. Gregg
 
Last edited:
M Gregg

M Gregg

Disabled Account
Joined 2010
bluetomgold said:
That would be the PSU then ;)

A bit of googling/reading is leading me to the conclusion that Panasonics would be just as good if not better here due to low ESR...
Click to expand...

So Panasonics in the PSU..you can bypass with film caps 10uF and 0.1..
the bypass cap is important..depending on the circuit and how dependant of PSU effects..
(it can alter the whole sound of the equipment it depends on the PSU)

Use the silmics in the output stage..(they have a warmer sound)

Regards
M. Gregg
 
Last edited:
M Gregg

M Gregg

Disabled Account
Joined 2010
bluetomgold said:
Yep.

I know what happens when you wire them the wrong way round too.

:D
Click to expand...

The bypass caps are a bone of contention..you have to decide how you want to proceed..

You are now stepping into the mad world of audio..:D

The two lines of thought are a standard low ESR elec is good across the audio band..others say they prefer no Elec caps and only film caps in the PSU..then others prefer bypass..

The link I have given you is not biased towards my thoughts..its probably a wake up call so have fun catch you later..

Regards
M. Gregg
 
Last edited:
M

Mike P

Member
Joined 2012
My favourite general use electrolytics are Panasonic FC, FM and Rubycon ZLH. You'll very rarely read anyone say anything bad about these capacitors for general use and in power supplies.

All of the above are quite low ESR and the only place I would avoid them is directly after a voltage regulator where a low ESR cap can cause instability of the reg.

For anything in the signal path I do find that a nice quality audio specific cap can sound better than a general use cap and my favourites are Elna Silmic. Sometimes you can replace the electro with a film cap.

For the main power supply smoothing cap I usually use Panasonic (e.g. TS-ED) and I've always been happy with them. On my main power amp I decided to splash out and used Mundorf M-Lytic AG which are superb but very expensive. Kendeil are an alternative to the Mundorfs.
 
B

bluetomgold

Member
Joined 2003
Mike P said:
My favourite general use electrolytics are Panasonic FC, FM and Rubycon ZLH. You'll very rarely read anyone say anything bad about these capacitors for general use and in power supplies.

All of the above are quite low ESR and the only place I would avoid them is directly after a voltage regulator where a low ESR cap can cause instability of the reg.

For anything in the signal path I do find that a nice quality audio specific cap can sound better than a general use cap and my favourites are Elna Silmic. Sometimes you can replace the electro with a film cap.

For the main power supply smoothing cap I usually use Panasonic (e.g. TS-ED) and I've always been happy with them. On my main power amp I decided to splash out and used Mundorf M-Lytic AG which are superb but very expensive. Kendeil are an alternative to the Mundorfs.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input!
 
B

bluetomgold

Member
Joined 2003
Right I've bitten the bullet and ordered Elna Silnics for the main preamp section and MM phono. Came to over £60 :eek:

Finding a suitable 10,000uF 50V reservoir cap is going to take a bit more research I think. The space is roughly 35 x 60mm and ideally it wants to have solder tag connectors. The Nichicon KG looks good but a bit too long I think.
One of these might work but I think I'd rather have proper solder tags:
(MLGOAG-080) - 10000uF 63V Mundorf MLytic AG Electrolytic Capacitor | Hifi Collective

Anyway I'll do the PSU as the second stage. I'll probably pop the new caps in early next week - will post my findings!
 
M

Mike P

Member
Joined 2012
I'm sure you'll be fine soldering to the legs on a snap-in style cap or to the leads on a radial style. I can recommend the Mundorf.

Farnell have lots of options ranging from about £8 up to £20. Just use the parametric search/filter tool and it'll bring up exactly what you need. I searched in snap-in/screw terminal and got about 20 different options.

The Kendeil capacitors can be purchased from Avondale:

Kendeil Capacitors

or you can find them on ebay.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Top Bottom