AudioCaps Rule!

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diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
Hi,

When doing this some people claim that you should use multiple values of difference sizes. This is supposed to enhance the cap's dissipation factor or the tangent loss.

Nah.
This is technically incomplete and incorrect.

The idea behind bypassing is the notion that you start out with an imperfect cap in the first place, this is especially true at higher frequencies where most caps show their ESR.

So, you bypass with, say, an imaginary rule of 1/10 values with better caps to make the imperfection of the original big cap go away.

While this works on paper it also has some side effects you won't like hearing in a high-resolution audio system:

It has the effect of breaking up coherence, you actually start to hear each bypass's sonic signature on it's own.

Best policy, IME, is to opt for the best possible cap money can buy and if you must use bypassses use the same brand, technology as the bigger one.

If you want to make this phenomenon blatantly obvious put some silver mica caps in // with some ordinary electrolytes and you should notice the abrupt rupture of coherence.

Cheers,;)
 
Do you know the manufacturer of those?
The manufacturer is LCR :) (annoyingly, they aren't on the LCR website, and I can't google anything decent either)

I use 8uf, and the cost is £5 for this size. They are huge - 4.5cmx4.5cm - they look the part :)

They sound really sweet and clean in my speakers compared to the MKP metallized polyprop. the speakers came with.

Am I right in thinking metallized plastic caps are typically no good in x-overs for nice sound?


-Simon
 
diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
Hi,

Am I right in thinking metallized plastic caps are typically no good in x-overs for nice sound?

Not sure, I usually go for the film & foil types for best results but these are more expensive.

If you need to tame a wild tweeter some poycarbonate caps are excellent too but I don't like to make blanket statements on this.

Jensen copperfoil PIO caps can be very good as well, not that I want to confuse you...

Cheers,;)
 
Re: Rotel is good

SimontY said:
Hi,


I believe the RA-02 is one of the new ones, and they are excellent for the money. It is not particularly thin-sounding.

The new cd player is great too :)

(just thought I'd stick up for Rotel, as they make good kit)

Slightly off-topic: has anyone replaced the parallel caps in a x-over? Is it worth it? Mine has a 33uf 'Elko-glatt' electrolytic there...


-Simon

I have the CD player too. :) My $1000 worth of amp/CD + DIY speakers/crossover does not sound as good as the boss's $60K system, and I didn't mean to imply that it does. The reason the boss's "world fell apart" is that his preconceptions about tube and transistor amps, which bordered on religious convictions, are out the door. My system *does* have every bit as good a midrange, if you sit in the sweet spot. Hey, my system uses the same driver for mid/bass as his speakers use for midrange. He's got Dunlavy Mark III/A's.
 
Frank,

Solid state bashing again..............:D :D :D

Regards,
Jam
 

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