audio capacitors 1800/150 uF ?

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https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtvZwp0rE3Aa0Gv1BCexgR5Bf8G8

one picture can speak a thousand words...
You allready have very good capacitors there.Why are you looking to change them.The blue ones are Panasonic FC-low esr , probably on the digital side , and the black ones are Nichicon muse KZ, again very good ones if they are used on the analog side after the dac . The rest like NP capacitors for tube coupling might be the usual polypropilene and they are very good too.
 
You should separate the types of capacitors that you need by location.
Before the DAC regulator you need just good quality capacitors.Epsos, BC, Rubycon,Panasonic, Nichicon, Elna, Sprague, Mallory etc, anything as big as possible will do.You're looking for the industrial grade here.They are usually bigger and higher temperature, allthough 85 degrees celsius Sprague might be way better that today's 105 degrees.
After the DAC regulator you need low ESR capacitors like Sanyo oscon, Panasonic fc, fm and again, many others.I see no reason why you would need 35v dc electrolitic capacitors after the regs.You should have nothing higher than 15v on the analog side and 5 v on the digital side, so 16v and 6.3 v should be more than ok.
The so called "audio grade" capacitors are needed just for filtering, decoupling or coupling the analog rails for op-amps usually.Nichicon muse ...several series(kz...es), ELNA cerafine, silmic and many others that were analysed in Cyril Bateman studies, both polarised and NP . But don't believe any stupid thing that comes on the internet about capacitors!
Lots of chinese capacitors will do too with no complaint as long as they are used by the industry at large scale.Lelon is everywhere in the digital world and they still provide a good service.
I personaly am an Epsos(Siemens), Nichicon and Panasonic fan...

Many thanks, see pic posted earlier (output/buffer board)
 
You allready have very good capacitors there.Why are you looking to change them.The blue ones are Panasonic FC-low esr , probably on the digital side , and the black ones are Nichicon muse KZ, again very good ones if they are used on the analog side after the dac . The rest like NP capacitors for tube coupling might be the usual polypropilene and they are very good too.

...they are currently all panasonic FM/FC - 35v

8 are 33uF
2 are 470uF
2 are 1000uF

replacing with Elna Silmic II

2 are 150uF
4 are 1800uF

...don't know what to replace these with (inc.2200uF/220uF)?

Just thought I might get help/suggestions on 'here' (DIY)
 
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I once tried to find out what made an 'audio cap' (electro) different from a 'normal' cap.
No one could tell me.
Nothing in their spec sheets explained it either.

In my experience, most of my customers report sonic improvements after I've recapped their old piece of gear.
BUT, I'm replacing 20 year old caps with modern vastly better made new caps.
I also almost fully resolder it due to bad joints, and reset bias and offset (where applicable).
So those changes are also thrown into the mix.

FYI, I tend to use panasonic FC or FM where I can.

My research has told me;
FM is the replacement for FC which is being phased out.
FM also has lower esr than the low esr FC.

In special cases I will use Elna silmic II.
Do they make a difference ?
I don't know.
I have never tried one, pulled it all apart, swapped caps, put it back together, tried again.

Last bit I worked on was a parasound A21 amp.
Replaced the main filter caps that were bulging and failing for new CDE ones.
Owner reports its has regained everything it had lost over the last year.
Nothing special about the CDE caps.
Just a good well made cap that suited the purpose.

Oh, and they weren't failing like the old ones...............
 
thedoc375, if by audio capacitor you mean one that gives more sonic advantages than drawbacks, then I suggest you don't trust entirely marketing and vendors.
There are capacitors meant for industrial applications, common devices and heavy duty use that IMHO beat many so proclaimed "audio capacitors" on the market.
It is also likely that some expensive capacitors are due to cheap products covered in luxury looking "clothes".

One of the brand I suggest for you to try is Epcos LL series. Available pretty much everywhere and also in a Snap-in version.
RIFA PEH169 are also good, a bit brighter sounding in this highs.
Siemens (orange colored) and Sikorel series are for now my favorite when it comes to screw terminal capacitors, if you can find them in a good shape and carefully reform them.
One of the best electrolytics I've heard is a Blackgate NX, but I doubt you'd like to pay a kidney for it. It's such a shame, because they weren't so expensive ten years ago.
Rubycon ZL is also a nice, pretty cheap and good performing capacitor.
 
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I once tried to find out what made an 'audio cap' (electro) different from a 'normal' cap.
No one could tell me.
Nothing in their spec sheets explained it either.

In my experience, most of my customers report sonic improvements after I've recapped their old piece of gear.
BUT, I'm replacing 20 year old caps with modern vastly better made new caps.
I also almost fully resolder it due to bad joints, and reset bias and offset (where applicable).
So those changes are also thrown into the mix.

FYI, I tend to use panasonic FC or FM where I can.

My research has told me;
FM is the replacement for FC which is being phased out.
FM also has lower esr than the low esr FC.

In special cases I will use Elna silmic II.
Do they make a difference ?
I don't know.
I have never tried one, pulled it all apart, swapped caps, put it back together, tried again.

Last bit I worked on was a parasound A21 amp.
Replaced the main filter caps that were bulging and failing for new CDE ones.
Owner reports its has regained everything it had lost over the last year.
Nothing special about the CDE caps.
Just a good well made cap that suited the purpose.

Oh, and they weren't failing like the old ones...............

interesting comments!!

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtvZwp0rE3Aa0Gv1BCexgR5Bf8G8

....this is the output/buffer board, the arrows indicate the caps to replace.

...OK forget audio : what caps other than panasonic are suitable for DAC use: (with these parameters)

1800uf + 35v ?
150uf + 35v ?

or substitute:
1800 for 2200 ?
150 for 220 ?
 
thedoc375, if by audio capacitor you mean one that gives more sonic advantages than drawbacks, then I suggest you don't trust entirely marketing and vendors.
There are capacitors meant for industrial applications, common devices and heavy duty use that IMHO beat many so proclaimed "audio capacitors" on the market.
It is also likely that some expensive capacitors are due to cheap products covered in luxury looking "clothes".

One of the brand I suggest for you to try is Epcos LL series. Available pretty much everywhere and also in a Snap-in version.
RIFA PEH169 are also good, a bit brighter sounding in this highs.
Siemens (orange colored) and Sikorel series are for now my favorite when it comes to screw terminal capacitors, if you can find them in a good shape and carefully reform them.
One of the best electrolytics I've heard is a Blackgate NX, but I doubt you'd like to pay a kidney for it. It's such a shame, because they weren't so expensive ten years ago.
Rubycon ZL is also a nice, pretty cheap and good performing capacitor.

thanks for the recommendations!

...OK forget audio : what quality electrolytic radial caps other than panasonic are available: (with these parameters)

1800uf + 35v ?
150uf + 35v ?

or substitute:
1800 for 2200 ?
150 for 220 ?

...'blackgate' not made anymore?
 
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OK, forget 'audio' probably a bad choice of word! I should have phrased the question differently! I think we have all heard enough about so called audiophile caps.
Please lets concentrate on good quality replacements for the panasonic brand, and I'm not saying they are bad in anyway!!

So, what quality electrolytic radial caps other than panasonic are available: (with these parameters)

1800uf + 35v ?
150uf + 35v ?

or substitute:
1800 for 2200 ?
150 for 220 ?
 
Really?

If you don't know what to measure, where to measure it, or anything really, if you have to ask these questions you have asked in this thread, it's probably not a good idea for you to do anything with this circuit! While these tubes can be run at pretty low voltages, you just might encounter hundreds of volts, if you don't know what you're doing, you REALLY DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING! Death may be an interesting experience, but it's usually a once in a lifetime thing.

Please for your own sake gain some basic knowledge before you do anything!

PS Under the right (or wrong, Your POV) circumstances, 24V can be lethal.
 
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Agreed. Even if you don't hurt yourself there's a good chance you will make the DAC worse. Have you ever desoldered a large cap before? Do you know they can be polarized. That looks like a nicely built unit with quality parts and probably a good design. Why do you want to risk screwing it up for unlikely gains. ..
 
If you don't know what to measure, where to measure it, or anything really, if you have to ask these questions you have asked in this thread, it's probably not a good idea for you to do anything with this circuit! While these tubes can be run at pretty low voltages, you just might encounter hundreds of volts, if you don't know what you're doing, you REALLY DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING! Death may be an interesting experience, but it's usually a once in a lifetime thing.

Please for your own sake gain some basic knowledge before you do anything!

PS Under the right (or wrong, Your POV) circumstances, 24V can be lethal.

thanks! ~ I came here for useful/helpful advice, not ridicule! I have been soldering and swapping out dead components for over 40 years (like for like) and I'm still alive! I always discharge circuits before I do anything anyway. No helpful knowledge divulged here then? Basically you;re saying don't come to DIY forum for useful knowledge - go somewhere else! But if I was an expert I wouldn't need any forums anyway because I'd already know.
 
Agreed. Even if you don't hurt yourself there's a good chance you will make the DAC worse. Have you ever desoldered a large cap before? Do you know they can be polarized. That looks like a nicely built unit with quality parts and probably a good design. Why do you want to risk screwing it up for unlikely gains. ..

Have you ever desoldered a large cap: "YES" loads of times!!
Do you know they can be polarized. "YES" or bi-polar.

I wanted to try out some other caps (like for like). However, after reading things on the net regarding the high quality of panasonic FM I may decide to leave it with them. Not sure yet. :rolleyes:
 
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