Alrightie then! Some old images here. I made a new webpage on my little web space instead of posting attachments here, so we keep the bytecount low on DIYaudio.
These are merely images when the cabinets were still down in the crowded little shop that I have access to. I had glued the side+back+top panels together and cut all the holes with a plunge router (phew!). There is stuffing in the cabinets now, and the drivers are mounted, but the large radii for the front baffle are *NOT* cut. I am not doing that until everything else is fine and I know that the box works. Since the front baffle is spruce, which is soft, I will probably sand it into shape, with one of those spiffy el cheapo handheld belt sanders.
Future surface finish is still a secret (which of course means I don't know yet...).
Short description on the same page. Nothing secret about these ones, wood plugs, 8mm, used throughout. No "jigsaw" or other special cutting of the edges, merely straight cuts.
Enjoy.
http://digitalakuten.com/MLTLAriel/MLTLAriel1.html
These are merely images when the cabinets were still down in the crowded little shop that I have access to. I had glued the side+back+top panels together and cut all the holes with a plunge router (phew!). There is stuffing in the cabinets now, and the drivers are mounted, but the large radii for the front baffle are *NOT* cut. I am not doing that until everything else is fine and I know that the box works. Since the front baffle is spruce, which is soft, I will probably sand it into shape, with one of those spiffy el cheapo handheld belt sanders.
Future surface finish is still a secret (which of course means I don't know yet...).
Short description on the same page. Nothing secret about these ones, wood plugs, 8mm, used throughout. No "jigsaw" or other special cutting of the edges, merely straight cuts.
Enjoy.
http://digitalakuten.com/MLTLAriel/MLTLAriel1.html
Forgot to answer the crossover question: yes, I am building the Ariel crossover with all values as they are on Lynn O:s pages. No ultra inobtainium components, stuff that is available through Swedish sources - Jantzen cross coil foil inductors, MCap (the white ones) for all capacitors except for the important high pass cap, which is 4.7 uF Intertechniks Audyn Plus, with a smaller (0.2 uF?) russian teflon cap in parallell. Mundorf MR10 resistors.
Yes, you can substitute the XT25TG30, but it requires a complete redesign of the crossover- with excellent results, I might add.
I tried several configurations, but ended up with a symmetrical 3rd order electrical filter, crossing over at 3kHz. Nice, flat amplitude response.
The treble is very detailed, and not as soft as with the original 2905/9000's I replaced.
Give it a try. If you need more details on the redesign, let me know.
-chas
is it possible to use the Vifa XT25 instead of the SS 2905/9500 ?
I tried several configurations, but ended up with a symmetrical 3rd order electrical filter, crossing over at 3kHz. Nice, flat amplitude response.
The treble is very detailed, and not as soft as with the original 2905/9000's I replaced.
Give it a try. If you need more details on the redesign, let me know.
-chas
is it possible to use the Vifa XT25 instead of the SS 2905/9500 ?
I think you are asking for a bit of pain using the XT25. its a beautiful tweeter with the right x-o , but its easy to get it wrong !!
I would suggest you try one of the Seas tweeters from Aranmar Acoustic (the old Acoustic Concepts) http://www.acousticconcepts.com.au/
Very nice tweeters, can cross easily at lowish x-o points.
I would suggest you try one of the Seas tweeters from Aranmar Acoustic (the old Acoustic Concepts) http://www.acousticconcepts.com.au/
Very nice tweeters, can cross easily at lowish x-o points.
I have some questions about the MLTL Ariel. I made them (internal dim's) 52" tall, 6.5" wide, 10.5" deep so the tweeters would be at ear height. Dia. 4"x2" port 3" up from bottom. It has the stock "Value" crossover (purchased as a kit from Northcreek) It has good bass but they sound "empty". If I eq it for -4 @ 1.6k & +6@8k it sounds much better. Would changing the cabinet shape like I did change the sound by that much?
Thanks
Thanks
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Lester asked:
What you have done by lengthening the cabinet is change the tuned frequency. Longer means a greater emphasis on low frequencies. It is understandable that you have "good" bass. I think it is the emphasis of bass that causes the mid's to sound "empty".
It would have been better to stay closer to the 45" internal dimension suggested earlier and add height under the enclosure.
What you have done by lengthening the cabinet is change the tuned frequency. Longer means a greater emphasis on low frequencies. It is understandable that you have "good" bass. I think it is the emphasis of bass that causes the mid's to sound "empty".
It would have been better to stay closer to the 45" internal dimension suggested earlier and add height under the enclosure.
Thanks for the feedback.
I reworked the cabinets to the suggested size, damped the inside with vinyl tiles, added carpet felt, built a base to elevate it, and put the port on the bottom. They weigh 96lbs. each now.
The new cabs combined with positioning them differently within the room has made a huge difference.
The sound is still a little too forward for me but I think that is due to the sharp edges of the cabinets and the room itself. For now an eq of -5db @ 1.6k gets it the way I like it.
Thank's again.
I reworked the cabinets to the suggested size, damped the inside with vinyl tiles, added carpet felt, built a base to elevate it, and put the port on the bottom. They weigh 96lbs. each now.
The new cabs combined with positioning them differently within the room has made a huge difference.
The sound is still a little too forward for me but I think that is due to the sharp edges of the cabinets and the room itself. For now an eq of -5db @ 1.6k gets it the way I like it.
Thank's again.
TL sub (at last!)
I finally built the TL sub using the SEAS H1208 driver and cabinet dimensions provide by Scottmoose (see his post #92). I used 25mm MDF for the box sides and 19mm for the baffle (it’s very heavy!). I haven’t stuffed the box yet because I’m a little confused about what type, how much and where it goes. I would be grateful for any guidance.
I finally built the TL sub using the SEAS H1208 driver and cabinet dimensions provide by Scottmoose (see his post #92). I used 25mm MDF for the box sides and 19mm for the baffle (it’s very heavy!). I haven’t stuffed the box yet because I’m a little confused about what type, how much and where it goes. I would be grateful for any guidance.
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Hi Guys,
I has been very interesting reading the posts on the MLTL Ariel/small thor speaker.
I initially started out trying to how members have attempted to construct the Ariel speakers but now I shall attempt the MLTL Ariel/Small Thor speaker as designed by Scottmoose.
Very elegant design ScottMoose
Did any one actually complete this design as I read that some were going too?
I has been very interesting reading the posts on the MLTL Ariel/small thor speaker.
I initially started out trying to how members have attempted to construct the Ariel speakers but now I shall attempt the MLTL Ariel/Small Thor speaker as designed by Scottmoose.
Very elegant design ScottMoose
Did any one actually complete this design as I read that some were going too?
@Scottmoose can I put the circular port at the back panel instead? Coz I saw that in the design of Thor (revisited), you said that the circular port can be placed at the bottom or at the back.
I think this year (2022), I will start building this MLTL version of Ariel... I still have the Vifa/Scanspeak drivers sitting for 20 years waiting
