Anyone knows the TEN DB-44 Amplifier ?

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If the supply doesn't draw excessive current with the rectifiers out of the circuit, it would seem to indicate that the problems is on the secondary side of the power supply. There is no current flowing through the outputs if they are not getting hot and you read 0.000v across all of the large white resistors. The rail caps or a solder bridge/loose strand of wire seem to be the only things left that could cause excessive current draw.

You originally stated that the FETs were heating up but was that the reason for removing the amp from the vehicle?

Also, if the voltage is dropping as low as 7 or 8v (measured across B+ and ground), that would limit the drive voltage which could make the FETs overheat.
 
the reason my friend pulled out the amp from the vehicle was that amp doesn't power on.When i connected the amp to my power supply i noticed the FETS overheating
I think this is getting a bit tricky for my little experience on car amps.
In the past i had the same problem with mine mosfet car amp (different brand) and the FETS was overheating and the problem whas a resistor befor the FET.
I will pull out the electrolytic capacitors. Is it possible one of them be shorted ?
 
I didn't believe in my eyes. Look what i found at the pcb(photo below).
The parts are P30N06

How can this be done? Maybe someone did it ?
Stupid me i didn't see it from the beginning.

I soldered the cut pcb, i powerd up the amp and now it draws 6,8 Amps with 5 Volts at +B terminal and ground
 

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Those generally only burn when the FETs fail but if you had about 5v on the gates of the FETs, the FETs have likely survived.

Remove the rectifiers again to see if the power supply will operate normally and draw only about 1 amp.

If it does, you'll need to reinstall the rectifiers and check to see if any of the outputs are getting hot.
 
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