The plate amp I'm using is from a RatShack powered sub I got some years ago. The power spec is 120 watts r.m.s. @ 4-ohms. The Dayton 6 1/2" is the 8-ohm model 'cause that's all they offered back when I got it. You could probably get just as good results with the 4-ohm version of the woofer and an amp of around 70 watts (Parts Express has one). A woofer like this would work great in a condo because it doesn't really make deep "sub" bass that would travel through walls & floors and tic-off your neighbors.
It really is a simple project, but you will need a router with a circle cutting attachment plus a jig or circular saw. It actually took more time to put a finish on it than to cut out the parts.
You can experiment with added weight on the passive radiator if you like, but I got great results right out of the box.
It really is a simple project, but you will need a router with a circle cutting attachment plus a jig or circular saw. It actually took more time to put a finish on it than to cut out the parts.
You can experiment with added weight on the passive radiator if you like, but I got great results right out of the box.
Good deal on a budget sub amp
http://mcm.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/mcm/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=50-6266&N=0
http://mcm.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/mcm/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=50-6266&N=0
Re: Good deal on a budget sub amp
156 watts RMS into 4 ohms @ 0.2% THD $99.95 part express dayton your deals better then I thought.
150W at 4ohms looks good but would have liked a pic or brand, feature list... I bought my audio stuff locally or from parts express though mcm is common.Timn8ter said:
156 watts RMS into 4 ohms @ 0.2% THD $99.95 part express dayton your deals better then I thought.
that does look of good quality. Ive been kind of looking for a better computer setup. I have 2 6.5" but arent going as low as I would like. perhaps a amp with boost like that would be good for a small box. I'm using a 15W amp out of that 5.25" X3001 Altec Lansing. It centers at ~30Hz with a shallow roll off. Do you think thats better then building a larger box? For a better sub I was thinking of just waiting and buying a cheap 10" or 12".
Without having specifics about the drivers and the amp I can only make a general comment. For low bass you have to move air. The easiest way to do that is with a large cone, perhaps 12" in your case. The previous posters have listed some good driver options. Whether they work well with the MCM amp is the question. Because of the boost at 35Hz you can get away with building a smaller box and using a driver that wouldn't ordinarily go as low. The danger is with that much boost you could end up with a peak in that range which may make it sound boomy. For games and movies, that may not be so bad but for music it may get annoying. I haven't tried this but I was thinking for a good, smaller, budget sub one of the older Adire Shivas in a 75 liter sealed box with the MCM amp might work pretty well. The trick would be to find someone wanting to sell their Shiva.
plate amp
None of us have tried every flavor of cheap plate amp, but my humble feeling is thay're all about the same "quality".
Of more significance to mr ocool might be the price and availability. Since your signature lists location as SK, you might want to consider the AMP100 from Solen. I've used them on a couple of occasions, and they're OK.
By the time you pay the currency exchange, and brokerage fee if the US vendor "accidentally" sends by UPS or Fedex, you could easily pay more than CDN list from Solen. This has happened to me more than once.
None of us have tried every flavor of cheap plate amp, but my humble feeling is thay're all about the same "quality".
Of more significance to mr ocool might be the price and availability. Since your signature lists location as SK, you might want to consider the AMP100 from Solen. I've used them on a couple of occasions, and they're OK.
By the time you pay the currency exchange, and brokerage fee if the US vendor "accidentally" sends by UPS or Fedex, you could easily pay more than CDN list from Solen. This has happened to me more than once.
I tried mounting a plate amp without its cheap plastic sealed case, and it was a bad idea! All the connections were leaky, so you got farting noises as air rushed through them all, it being a sealed sub! It sounded like severe distortion. I ended up rebuilding the box without the plate amp in it, as I didn't want the plastic box to mess things up.
Great thread, lots of intriguing ideas here!
I'm looking for two small, inexpensive subs to go along with a pair of Cyburg Needles that I plan to build soon.
I like TheSlimMan's Bitty-Boom a lot, but I think I'd rather have a box for aesthetic reasons, plus there's this little voice in the back of my head that's saying "sealed is better than ported, or passively radiatored, or whatever..." Or maybe it's just easier? Feel free to adjust my thinking on this.
Anyway, about those Parts Express DVC drivers. I'm looking at the 8" (295-480) and the 10" (295-485). They have plans they recommend for each one...what do you think of these:
Sealed box for 8"
Sealed box for 10"
I'd probably be using their 70 watt plate amp (300-784). The box for the 10" DVC is pretty small, but the box for the 8" is flat-out dinky, essentially an 11 inch cube. That seems real cool if it'll do the job! Anyone ever build one of these, or understand the specs well enough to let me know if these are a good idea or not?
My room is small, every sub I've ever owned has been more than enough for it...I'm thinking that any limitations it's diminutive size would have would be overcome by the fact that there will be two of them. Any thoughts or suggestions?
I'm looking for two small, inexpensive subs to go along with a pair of Cyburg Needles that I plan to build soon.
I like TheSlimMan's Bitty-Boom a lot, but I think I'd rather have a box for aesthetic reasons, plus there's this little voice in the back of my head that's saying "sealed is better than ported, or passively radiatored, or whatever..." Or maybe it's just easier? Feel free to adjust my thinking on this.
Anyway, about those Parts Express DVC drivers. I'm looking at the 8" (295-480) and the 10" (295-485). They have plans they recommend for each one...what do you think of these:
Sealed box for 8"
Sealed box for 10"
I'd probably be using their 70 watt plate amp (300-784). The box for the 10" DVC is pretty small, but the box for the 8" is flat-out dinky, essentially an 11 inch cube. That seems real cool if it'll do the job! Anyone ever build one of these, or understand the specs well enough to let me know if these are a good idea or not?
My room is small, every sub I've ever owned has been more than enough for it...I'm thinking that any limitations it's diminutive size would have would be overcome by the fact that there will be two of them. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Sorry 'bout that. I'd fix it, but I don't seem to be able to edit my post.
Here are the regular dumb links if the mods want to delete the ones above:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-480 sealed.pdf
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-485 sealed.pdf
Here are the regular dumb links if the mods want to delete the ones above:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-480 sealed.pdf
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-485 sealed.pdf
True statement about looking at the status bar. Ill have to think before i click.
About fixing my computer, please, tell me how. Actual information is not rude. Vague suggestions are.
I think your idea is a good one. Two subs should be superior to one. I was quite happy with a single ten inch sealed for music. Equiped with the least expensive driver made perhaps. It seems to me that two eights will have more surface area, and with two voice coils driving, should make for better bass. Maybe not HT bass, but i could be very wrong. Also, any upper range which will come through the crossover will still be in stereo, and any box colorations will at least be evenly distributed across the image rendering them much more tolerable I think. Then there is the fact that you can tell yourself all these things which for me is easier to swallow than "when crossing a sub below 100hz, it is impossible to locate". Which may be true, but when i have spent significant time placing and adjusting a sub, it can be difficult to "forget" where it is. Someday, i too will have stereo bass!
I love you guys.
About fixing my computer, please, tell me how. Actual information is not rude. Vague suggestions are.
I think your idea is a good one. Two subs should be superior to one. I was quite happy with a single ten inch sealed for music. Equiped with the least expensive driver made perhaps. It seems to me that two eights will have more surface area, and with two voice coils driving, should make for better bass. Maybe not HT bass, but i could be very wrong. Also, any upper range which will come through the crossover will still be in stereo, and any box colorations will at least be evenly distributed across the image rendering them much more tolerable I think. Then there is the fact that you can tell yourself all these things which for me is easier to swallow than "when crossing a sub below 100hz, it is impossible to locate". Which may be true, but when i have spent significant time placing and adjusting a sub, it can be difficult to "forget" where it is. Someday, i too will have stereo bass!
I love you guys.
In your first post you mentioned the Tang Band W8-740C. IMHO that is the perfect type of driver for what you want to do. I don't think the TB is currently available here, though Parts Express is greatly expanding their line. The MCM 55-2421 is a clone of the W8-740C that is built it in the same factory. You can see it on page 5 or this catalog PDF:
http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/mcm/html/cat49/section03.pdf
The specs are wrong. They are close to Fs 30, Qts .25, Vas 40. The driver will work very well in an EBS alignment of around 1 cu ft tuned to 30ish hz. Creative Sounds sells a passive radiator that has enough excursion to do the job nicely. It's far more PR than the PE or MCM models at about the same price. If you google the MCM 55-2421 you will find threads on this topic from a couple of different forums.
Check out Rythmik Audio's ebay auctions for an amp. They are selling a amp very similar (it looks identical except for the enclosure) to PE's "120W" plate amp, but costs less. It is a better amp than PE's cheaper models. Brian at Rythmik can also set the rumble filter up for your application for $5.
I think you would be much happier with this route than a really small sealed sub. Check out the response charts on the links of the shielded DVC's you posted. The 55-2421 is capable of much much more in a slightly larger box. It's actually capable of much more in the same size box too, but the 1 cu ft is ideal.
Paul
http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/mcm/html/cat49/section03.pdf
The specs are wrong. They are close to Fs 30, Qts .25, Vas 40. The driver will work very well in an EBS alignment of around 1 cu ft tuned to 30ish hz. Creative Sounds sells a passive radiator that has enough excursion to do the job nicely. It's far more PR than the PE or MCM models at about the same price. If you google the MCM 55-2421 you will find threads on this topic from a couple of different forums.
Check out Rythmik Audio's ebay auctions for an amp. They are selling a amp very similar (it looks identical except for the enclosure) to PE's "120W" plate amp, but costs less. It is a better amp than PE's cheaper models. Brian at Rythmik can also set the rumble filter up for your application for $5.
I think you would be much happier with this route than a really small sealed sub. Check out the response charts on the links of the shielded DVC's you posted. The 55-2421 is capable of much much more in a slightly larger box. It's actually capable of much more in the same size box too, but the 1 cu ft is ideal.
Paul
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