another kicker kx1200.1

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ok i found problem last night. a trace on the bottom of board was broke. it was a trace to remote. fixed, now i get power to amp...yay. . it goes into protection as i apply power and after about a second or 2 it comes out of protect and green power light comes on.i dont recall when it worked if that was normal. i tested the tl494 with it powered up . and post my results below .
ps voltage sitsting at 11. 83 volts . these are the voltages i got on tl494c

IC# tl494c
Pin 1: 0v
Pin 2: 4.98v
Pin 3: .06v
Pin 4:
Pin 5: 1.47v
Pin 6: 3.68v
Pin 7: 0v
Pin 8: 9.97v
Pin 9: 4.02v
Pin 10: 4.02v
Pin 11: 9.97v
Pin 12: 10.79v
Pin 13: 4.98v
Pin 14: 4.98v
Pin 15: 4.98v
Pin 16: .00v
now. i dont know if this is a problem or somthing im doing wrong, but when i test the leg number 4 , as i touch the dmm to that leg. it sounds as if the relay clicks and somthing in b+ terminal end of the amp makes a buzzing like noise till i remove the dmm from pin 4, which i do very quickly as i do not know what the sound is , if its normal or not , and i dont want to be messed up more. now i did try to test the leg 4 a couple times but it did that every time and so i pulled of quickly. any idea why thaat is happening.

while i had amp powered on it played music with no buzzing or weird noises thru sub. but was just testing really to see if it would make any sound.. i had mp3 player hooked up to rca's and the rca's plugged into amp. and i didnt really turn up blasting loud. dont know that i could off of the 8 amps anyway ps puts out. checked the gain b boost and crossover and they all function properly. just wondering about my test results for tl494c to be checked out by someone that knows what they are supposed to be and if there is a problem with the leg 4.
 
This is common for many of the Kicker amps. If you need to measure the voltage on that pin, you have to connect a small capacitor (0.1uf works) from pin 4 to pin 7.

Didn't you modify this supply? Why is it producing less than 12v? Most of the mods that are designed to make them useful as a 12v supply force the supply to produce a bit more than 12v and hold it unless the supply reaches its limits.
 
i didnt really modify it, as far as modifying goes, i just took the ps and followed the directions on website that referred to what i was doing to it as modifying ps into 12v bench power source. i know it already had the 12v on it . but what i did was just clip n heatshrink all unneccisary wires that i didnt need. i just needed 12v n ground so i had to take those and put terminals on them and i had to put in on off switch and put a 10w 10 ohm resistor inside on a couple wires (a ground to a 5v source wire) to give it a more stable load and power the circuit since it wasnt hooked to computer. basicly i just followed the directions it had . it was supposed to give more stable voltage but i didnt check its output before i was finished..
the ps puts out 12.08 volts if i unhook the fan. but i wasnt sure how hot unit would get so i didnt want to run without the fan. . without fan12.08v ,, with 11.83v .
do u think that there is a possibility that amp would work fine when on my ps that puts out 12v at 8 amps, but when i give it 14v from car with 150 amp fuse ,somthing could blow that hasnt blown with the 8 amp source. everything seems fine now. but im wondering if somthing that hasnt blown when hooked up 2 my ps, might when i give it a 12v source that puts out more than 8 amps?
 
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i also took so many pics that could possibly help u in the future ,of both sides of the circuit board, alot of macro setting pics and alot of very good quality non macro pics. i thought i want the pics for futere reference just in case and i think they could help some1 else that may have problems with this amplifier. if any 1 wants them i can email them. i took pics of every area of board close up and , not so close. but tried to get every spot where there is smd"s real close and clear
 
If the only problem was the open trace, it's likely OK.

I think the 150 amp fuse is too much for this amp. 100 amp would be more than enough unless you're abusive. The difference between a 100 amp and a 150 amp may be the difference of having a repairable amp and having a paperweight if the amp fails.

I didn't see a problem with the voltage on the 494.
 
ok. thanks for all of your help. i have been running the amp in my car today on my 21 inch home made subwoofer at two ohms and it is awesome . working great. well. it has a problem with the gain potenciometer or however its said. the gain nob. doesnt seem to contact very well unless above 1/2 way on gain. and the fan doest seem to work .
i have swiched fans with my other kx mono amplifier and it does the same thing. fan comes on for like half a second as i turn amp power on then fan turns off. the amp is only running at two ohm load and not gettin even warm , so i think there is a possibility of a circuit that turns amp on after reaches certain temp , maybe? any input on that. i think i may have to put in a new gain knob but other than those two things , amp is working perfectly..
so. what i did. i had amp. blew sub that i think caused amp to go.no power or protection nothing from amp at all at that point. couldnt figure it out.figured out repairing amps for a couple years and now opened it up again and tested . had 3 irf3205 blown and 1 101 gate resistor and 1 104 resistor i think they were .1 irf9640 and 1 irf640 . and it had some cold solder joints on the lil circuit board for the gain and bass and crossover/ rcas. i also had a trace circuit blown for remote which i found last of all, now amp is working just great. thanks for all the help perry.
 
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