Well I've been looking to buy old used PACE de-soldering unit; single or 2 stage units are pricey $120.+.
found a working PPS-400 PRC2000 Process Control System for $149. w/free shipping for 32lb unit.
Certainly don't need all the functionality... But for price difference; What a bargain... or at least it made my day.
Unit appears to be fully functional.... so far.
They still have a few more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355366051084?hash=item52bd779d0c:g:CBUAAOSwds9lnsFI
From ELiquadators:
"Last year we sold over 30 of these and they all worked, these are from the same purchase just been sitting in the warehouse. We have priced them to sell. "
found a working PPS-400 PRC2000 Process Control System for $149. w/free shipping for 32lb unit.
Certainly don't need all the functionality... But for price difference; What a bargain... or at least it made my day.
Unit appears to be fully functional.... so far.
They still have a few more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355366051084?hash=item52bd779d0c:g:CBUAAOSwds9lnsFI
From ELiquadators:
"Last year we sold over 30 of these and they all worked, these are from the same purchase just been sitting in the warehouse. We have priced them to sell. "
The car needed transmission oil, a gearbox foundation, and a flywheel bearing...another $12 or so.
Got it Saturday, and he forgot to connect the headlight relay to the battery...had to borrow a spanner from a cycle mechanic, took 5 minutes to attach wire to +Ve of battery.
It is a conversion/ addition, there is a socket for the original lamp, which controls the twin relays, that allows higher wattage bulbs to be used, increases switch life a lot.
Got it Saturday, and he forgot to connect the headlight relay to the battery...had to borrow a spanner from a cycle mechanic, took 5 minutes to attach wire to +Ve of battery.
It is a conversion/ addition, there is a socket for the original lamp, which controls the twin relays, that allows higher wattage bulbs to be used, increases switch life a lot.
My local mechanic handed my XV over saying fixed. It was dingalinging in the front. 6km away from teh workshop, the car started shuddering and something broke with a metalic sound. They had fitted an incorrect model CV and somehow test driven on it and released the car to me
Businesses in Hervey Bay are opening and closing. They just can't get staff, such is life in regional areas. I am over 300km from the nearest city and, 1400km from Sydney. I worked for 7 years alongside Indian, Pakistani and African drivers and mechanics in Sydney's taxi industry, I can tell you that competent workers were never an issue there. I did a million kilometres in a BA Falcon from new and that car never had bad work done on it
I am about to hit buy it now on a CT Sounds MESSO-8
My experience over the past few months..
Head got ground, and new valves / seats, new spark plugs, new wires for plugs and coil, head gasket etc. job done at 115,000 km.
After that it would run a little rough on petrol (it usually runs on CNG, start is petrol, I can run it on either after that)...
So I added injector cleaner to the petrol, and the problem disappeared for some time.
Then, it appeared again and...
1. "Injectors gone, replace"
2. "Injector cleaning machine broken, will get it done outside, 99% failure rate as carbon build up in nozzle is causing block."
3. "Wiring fault, this is not hard enough for blockage, bring it in for a few hours."
4.Told my regular mechanic (since 1994) to check, he swapped the wiring back to petrol, it was smooth, he says the extra wiring for the after market gas conversion needs checking.
This was when he was doing the clutch replacement at 137,600 km.
So number 3 and 4 were accurate, 1 & 2 were out of the loop...#2 is a reputed guy, and his work is accepted by makers even under warranty period as allowed.
Pardon me if I am skeptical about appearances.
Head got ground, and new valves / seats, new spark plugs, new wires for plugs and coil, head gasket etc. job done at 115,000 km.
After that it would run a little rough on petrol (it usually runs on CNG, start is petrol, I can run it on either after that)...
So I added injector cleaner to the petrol, and the problem disappeared for some time.
Then, it appeared again and...
1. "Injectors gone, replace"
2. "Injector cleaning machine broken, will get it done outside, 99% failure rate as carbon build up in nozzle is causing block."
3. "Wiring fault, this is not hard enough for blockage, bring it in for a few hours."
4.Told my regular mechanic (since 1994) to check, he swapped the wiring back to petrol, it was smooth, he says the extra wiring for the after market gas conversion needs checking.
This was when he was doing the clutch replacement at 137,600 km.
So number 3 and 4 were accurate, 1 & 2 were out of the loop...#2 is a reputed guy, and his work is accepted by makers even under warranty period as allowed.
Pardon me if I am skeptical about appearances.
Yeah, Gates are good (I don't know the other brand). Also, I make sure they are made of HSN (highly saturated nitrile / HNBR) but fortunately most are nowadays. There was a while when chloroprene was used and it wasn't as reliable especially in hot countries.
Roulunds are a reputed company from Denmark (I think).
See this if you like:
https://7zap.com/en/brand/ROULUNDS+RUBBER/
I have used them, better than Fenner India in my opinion.
No ties to them...except as an occasional customer.
See this if you like:
https://7zap.com/en/brand/ROULUNDS+RUBBER/
I have used them, better than Fenner India in my opinion.
No ties to them...except as an occasional customer.
I bought a beaten up hafler p500 for 70 dollars, chassis has road rash, relays are burnt, good knows what else, but it will be a fun project, I had one in mid 90th, was quite impressed back then, it pulled two dual 15 inch and horn without breaking a sweat.
Cross my fingers outputs are intact..
Cross my fingers outputs are intact..
Hi amplidude,
The outputs should be fine. These were extremely robust amplifiers. As for performance, they are very good, above average for that time period. Good choice.
I just saved a DH200 that was hacked by an idiot. It's performance is pretty darned good as well, it didn't work when it came in. I have a P500 in for service now, I have to get to it.
Now, if you can refinish the case once done, you'll have a keeper that looks good.
-Chris
The outputs should be fine. These were extremely robust amplifiers. As for performance, they are very good, above average for that time period. Good choice.
I just saved a DH200 that was hacked by an idiot. It's performance is pretty darned good as well, it didn't work when it came in. I have a P500 in for service now, I have to get to it.
Now, if you can refinish the case once done, you'll have a keeper that looks good.
-Chris
Attachments
Hi amplidude,
Upgrade kits typically do not have good components or some parts that are matched that need to be matched. First concern yourself with getting it running and dealing with standard service issues. If you run into something major, let us know. Once you have it running and want to improve it, let us know. I will say that some parts do degrade over time, and a good choice in feedback network components can improve sound quality. Once I get my heat into the P500 I can say more. I work on too many things to keep it all straight right off the top of my head.
Avoid Ebay or AliExpress at all costs. Be extremely wary of self styled internet experts.
What I did to that DH200 is the same thing I do to all of these types of amplifiers. I replaced some of the old capacitors with modern, good brands with leads that matched the original spacing, or I formed the leads to fit (not just jammed in). I tested the transistors and matched the input transistors using a jig designed for that purpose, I also selected the 2N3440 and 2N5415 transistors to be close in complimentary beta. All common sense stuff. In this case I had to replace the filter capacitors as the previous person used much smaller "snap-in" types. These original filter caps are normally fine. I installed original types that fit, the ground was slightly modified to separate the capacitor charging pulses from the audio return.
Bob Cordell and Rick Savas (rsavas) have been working on these amplifiers. If you run into real trouble, they would be a very good resource when you have to replace output types. Rick may be able to supply new matched parts.
- Best, Chris
Upgrade kits typically do not have good components or some parts that are matched that need to be matched. First concern yourself with getting it running and dealing with standard service issues. If you run into something major, let us know. Once you have it running and want to improve it, let us know. I will say that some parts do degrade over time, and a good choice in feedback network components can improve sound quality. Once I get my heat into the P500 I can say more. I work on too many things to keep it all straight right off the top of my head.
Avoid Ebay or AliExpress at all costs. Be extremely wary of self styled internet experts.
What I did to that DH200 is the same thing I do to all of these types of amplifiers. I replaced some of the old capacitors with modern, good brands with leads that matched the original spacing, or I formed the leads to fit (not just jammed in). I tested the transistors and matched the input transistors using a jig designed for that purpose, I also selected the 2N3440 and 2N5415 transistors to be close in complimentary beta. All common sense stuff. In this case I had to replace the filter capacitors as the previous person used much smaller "snap-in" types. These original filter caps are normally fine. I installed original types that fit, the ground was slightly modified to separate the capacitor charging pulses from the audio return.
Bob Cordell and Rick Savas (rsavas) have been working on these amplifiers. If you run into real trouble, they would be a very good resource when you have to replace output types. Rick may be able to supply new matched parts.
- Best, Chris