AN 2.8 cabinets

[chrisb]

I don't think so. But I may be wrong.

Best thing to do is to just dive straight into it. Knowing you are new to this, don't expect to get brilliant results the first time. Just try something, see if it works, if not, try something else.

Your intuition is correct - if there's been any sanding at all, stain on MDF is courting at least very unpredictable results. Unless you're looking for a highly textured look that can disguise a lot, an even half-asked quality paint job on MDF requires a lot of sealing and prepping of joints and exposed end "grain" - heavy solids primers, numerous coats and sanding etc. By the time you factor all that in, it can cost less time and money to apply a cheap veneer (oak, cherry) and then finish with stains / oil finish of your choice. Just don't use a combination of solvent based contact cement and finishes .

OTOH, clear varnish or lacquer finishes on well sanded ( down to at least 220g) MDF can actually look quite presentable. Of course that means joinery needs to be very precise, with no exposed fill / bondo. (sorry, TerryO )

 

[ra7]

Chris, are there any good sources for that stick-on/iron-on type veneer here in the US? I like to go to stores and look at the stuff, but I understand most of these things have to be bought online.

 

[chrisb]

Chris, are there any good sources for that stick-on/iron-on type veneer here in the US? I like to go to stores and look at the stuff, but I understand most of these things have to be bought online.

Well, I use regular paper backed veneer and the old yellow glue / iron on method. Working in the millwork trade in Canada gives me commercial access to all the materials required, and I honestly don't know what's available retail in the US.

 

[MagnumOpus]

Your intuition is correct - if there's been any sanding at all, stain on MDF is courting at least very unpredictable results. Unless you're looking for a highly textured look that can disguise a lot, an even half-asked quality paint job on MDF requires a lot of sealing and prepping of joints and exposed end "grain" - heavy solids primers, numerous coats and sanding etc. By the time you factor all that in, it can cost less time and money to apply a cheap veneer (oak, cherry) and then finish with stains / oil finish of your choice. Just don't use a combination of solvent based contact cement and finishes .

OTOH, clear varnish or lacquer finishes on well sanded ( down to at least 220g) MDF can actually look quite presentable. Of course that means joinery needs to be very precise, with no exposed fill / bondo. (sorry, TerryO )

I am making these cabinets in a woodshop with all the means to make them excactly to specs. The only thing standing in the way of a perfect result is, well, me. I will be getting assistance from an experienced carpenter, though. I hope they turn out good. I was just looking into this thing called Lignaflex. Seems like a good choice. I just have to figure out the cost.

If I veneer the sides and the top, and then stain the veneer (if at all necessary) and/or a protective cover of sorts, it should look ok with a painted baffle. I could perhaps make the baffle from birch, and he rest in mdf. A black baffle with an antique looking dark veneer, perhaps? Dunno yet...

If I get the help I need, ie on the days he's not too busy with his job, I have a good feeling these will look good....hope so.

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I am still open for tips! One can never get too many options.