Ohh forgot to say, yes this one looks like it works. But the old one with less RMS hit better i think. Also i heard that new system should work for a while to give its 100%. I hope the problem is solved, and i hope it wasnt my car which damaged old amp. So should i dive into that adjustment i were talking about or should i just adjust with normal music?
http://postimg.org/image/wnynloimj/
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30.7 VAC on cold running engine and 25VAC on engine off. I am really skeptic to that cuz when engine is not running there shouldnt be any AC even i can understand this. Probably i must check VAC with more expensive voltmeter, also my father has fuke or fluke multimeter shows same results, but i guess its broken too.
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Hi!
Here is a simply (-iest?) way to set your gain and crossovers in that new amp of yours:
1. Set all bass, tre, fad, bal etc. from HU to ZERO level.
2. Set (if possible) sub out from HU to MAX
3. ´open´ crossovers from sub amp (kenwood) -> subsonic to lowest and LPF to highest.
4. Set GAIN from sub amp to MINIMUM.
5. Put 50Hz playing from HU at high volume (not MAX vol, because the HU starts to clip signal near max volume) so let´s say that max vol in HU is 40 so set it to 35.
6. Connect your (working) multimeter to sub amps output terminal, measure VAC.
7. Now increase slowly GAIN so that your meter blinks about (Think it was 4ohm/200WRMS?) 28VAC readings. ( (28V*28V)/4ohm)= 196W
Now your GAIN has been set and you don´t have to touch it anymore..lower the volume from HU.
8. Play 30Hz from HU in that kind of volume that the multimeter shows ~10VAC (meter still on sub output on amp)
9. Turn subsonic ´up´ slowly for so long that voltage starts to drop and leave it to position 8VAC.
10 Play 60Hz from HU in that kind of volume that the multimeter shows ~10VAC
11. Turn LPF ´down´ slowly for so long that voltage starts to drop and leave it to position 8VAC.
Now your sub amps gain and crossover has been set.
Your max volume is the volume you used to set gain..do not go over that.
If HUs bass/treble -settings effect to sub out -> do not touch them, leave them to zero.
With this, you should get along with it
E: I may have difficulties explaining this to english, so if there is something grazy..please correct
E2: I just looked at that picture were your sub can be seen..if possible, measure that box in centimeters and also measure that port (damieter/lenght)? reflex tube? What the h*** is it in english?
Here is a simply (-iest?) way to set your gain and crossovers in that new amp of yours:
1. Set all bass, tre, fad, bal etc. from HU to ZERO level.
2. Set (if possible) sub out from HU to MAX
3. ´open´ crossovers from sub amp (kenwood) -> subsonic to lowest and LPF to highest.
4. Set GAIN from sub amp to MINIMUM.
5. Put 50Hz playing from HU at high volume (not MAX vol, because the HU starts to clip signal near max volume) so let´s say that max vol in HU is 40 so set it to 35.
6. Connect your (working) multimeter to sub amps output terminal, measure VAC.
7. Now increase slowly GAIN so that your meter blinks about (Think it was 4ohm/200WRMS?) 28VAC readings. ( (28V*28V)/4ohm)= 196W
Now your GAIN has been set and you don´t have to touch it anymore..lower the volume from HU.
8. Play 30Hz from HU in that kind of volume that the multimeter shows ~10VAC (meter still on sub output on amp)
9. Turn subsonic ´up´ slowly for so long that voltage starts to drop and leave it to position 8VAC.
10 Play 60Hz from HU in that kind of volume that the multimeter shows ~10VAC
11. Turn LPF ´down´ slowly for so long that voltage starts to drop and leave it to position 8VAC.
Now your sub amps gain and crossover has been set.
Your max volume is the volume you used to set gain..do not go over that.
If HUs bass/treble -settings effect to sub out -> do not touch them, leave them to zero.
With this, you should get along with it
E: I may have difficulties explaining this to english, so if there is something grazy..please correct
E2: I just looked at that picture were your sub can be seen..if possible, measure that box in centimeters and also measure that port (damieter/lenght)? reflex tube? What the h*** is it in english?
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Didn´t remember that AC -voltage issue anymore
Yes, that should be solved first before anything else. You need to find a meter that you can count on and measure with it. There should not be no more than millivolts AC in any situation.
If all meter show the same -> you have to find a reason for that.
Yes, that should be solved first before anything else. You need to find a meter that you can count on and measure with it. There should not be no more than millivolts AC in any situation.
If all meter show the same -> you have to find a reason for that.
Yeah, when motor is on ACC so fans are running, seats are heating and so on.
I mean when i put a key there is like 3 levels. 1 not sure but i become able to turn on my HU because without the key i cant. 2 turns acc so i can use all electronics, and AC fans starts spinning. and 3 start starter to start the engine
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Hi!
Here is a simply (-iest?) way to set your gain and crossovers in that new amp of yours:
1. Set all bass, tre, fad, bal etc. from HU to ZERO level.
2. Set (if possible) sub out from HU to MAX
3. ´open´ crossovers from sub amp (kenwood) -> subsonic to lowest and LPF to highest.
4. Set GAIN from sub amp to MINIMUM.
5. Put 50Hz playing from HU at high volume (not MAX vol, because the HU starts to clip signal near max volume) so let´s say that max vol in HU is 40 so set it to 35.
6. Connect your (working) multimeter to sub amps output terminal, measure VAC.
7. Now increase slowly GAIN so that your meter blinks about (Think it was 4ohm/200WRMS?) 28VAC readings. ( (28V*28V)/4ohm)= 196W
Now your GAIN has been set and you don´t have to touch it anymore..lower the volume from HU.
8. Play 30Hz from HU in that kind of volume that the multimeter shows ~10VAC (meter still on sub output on amp)
9. Turn subsonic ´up´ slowly for so long that voltage starts to drop and leave it to position 8VAC.
10 Play 60Hz from HU in that kind of volume that the multimeter shows ~10VAC
11. Turn LPF ´down´ slowly for so long that voltage starts to drop and leave it to position 8VAC.
Now your sub amps gain and crossover has been set.
Your max volume is the volume you used to set gain..do not go over that.
If HUs bass/treble -settings effect to sub out -> do not touch them, leave them to zero.
With this, you should get along with it
E: I may have difficulties explaining this to english, so if there is something grazy..please correct
E2: I just looked at that picture were your sub can be seen..if possible, measure that box in centimeters and also measure that port (damieter/lenght)? reflex tube? What the h*** is it in english?
What do u mean with nr. 2? Bass level?
3. Also not sure what is subsonic is, i dont think i have it. Should i just skip?
pls explain these more detail and easier for beginner if its possible...
E2, measure port, do u mean that hole in it?
Yeah even if that sub will work, i guess i should buy something better instead of this one.
Well its late now, so i will try to check this out tomorrow morning.
Yeah, tomorrow im going to friends garage (service) again and gonna find best multimeter to measure.
Are there more ways to check alternator? Maybe i have special "type" of car that like to use a lot of AC?
Also i cant find good description from the internet or manual book, what is Bass Expander. I have that switch on amp, off/on. How i can understand its something the same like "bass boost" that other amps have? I understood that i should i use bigger budget for car stereo, there is no point to save money on it, cuz it comes kinda crappy.
Nikila: Seems that your new amp doesn't have subsonic filter..so you can skip that part. Without subsonic -filter it would be better if the sub were installed in sealed enclosure but it's not that deadly serious..it helps if you tune your box a quite low frequency, then sub won't go accel off so easily when there is atleast some control on low freq. I wondered that, could it be expensive to send something from Finland to Norway......I could send you an amp that'll have some more power and subsonic, something SPL Dynamics maybe? Turk: Komp to this one.....I just wonder that how can it be possiple that there is VAC when the engine is NOT running?!?
Nikila: Seems that your new amp doesn't have subsonic filter..so you can skip that part. Without subsonic -filter it would be better if the sub were installed in sealed enclosure but it's not that deadly serious..it helps if you tune your box a quite low frequency, then sub won't go accel off so easily when there is atleast some control on low freq. I wondered that, could it be expensive to send something from Finland to Norway......I could send you an amp that'll have some more power and subsonic, something SPL Dynamics maybe? Turk: Komp to this one.....I just wonder that how can it be possiple that there is VAC when the engine is NOT running?!?
Yes that i meant in post before, i waste more money everytime i buy sh1t...
SO DISSAPOINTED
mika
if a diode is shorted in the alternator and brush commutator motors like radiator cooling fans or blower motors are running they can produce dc pulses that can be read by some meters as AC that's why i asked about it
in this case we can't be sure Nik's meter is ok
i'm still thinking his original amp is ok it was just protecting itself from a fault condition.
(i still don't know if the original amp is ok with bridging.)
if a diode is shorted in the alternator and brush commutator motors like radiator cooling fans or blower motors are running they can produce dc pulses that can be read by some meters as AC that's why i asked about it
in this case we can't be sure Nik's meter is ok
i'm still thinking his original amp is ok it was just protecting itself from a fault condition.
(i still don't know if the original amp is ok with bridging.)
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