Amp Camp Amp - ACA

It is just if you want to hear clear crisp audio, which will be suffering slightly in audio quality because of crappy laptop bricks and over-simplyfied amplifier design, then you would want to isolate the RCAs. If you want to hear static noise, then don't isolate the RCAs.

If you want 0-100 crisp clear audio, then go for an F-5. If you want to fall in love with tube audio with magical highs and 1% DISTORTION, and the sweetest midrange you've ever heard, then try a 2a3 or 300b or 45 (!) tube amp. However, you will need to give some juice before you hear anything good. Tube amps need to saturate to sound good sometimes.
 
To Rewind ... It's all a matter of where you are starting from. The Amp-camp amp will be used to replace a mono internet radio with a built in speaker powered by a wall wart.

We will custom build a boom box set of speakers with tweeters and full range drivers, it will be powered by the Ampcamp amp, and this ASTRON MODEL No. RS-7A, 18 VDC, 5A power supply. Should be an order of magnitude better than the mono setup.

100% agree an F5 with Frugal horns would be much better.

That said, my 13 year old has bought into project. I'm way more comfortable running a set of 18V dc wires from a fully working commercial PS than letting him muck about with AC and caps.

Photos of bench setup to follow ....
 
These are photos of the prototype amp case ( more or less a passive preamp ) and the speaker. Will end up cutting down distance between full range drivers and tweeters quite a bit, will be about 12 inches wide X9 tall, and about 6 deep.

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Need to add ground for volume pot to star, and add some isolation for the RCA's, even with that going on, when testing with cheap Kinter Amp ( with hot-rod caps) it does not sound too bad.

This is my "bench test" Once Amp-Camps are built with my son, I'll be moving on to a few Gainclone variants, testing against a Aleph Mini, and then most likely a tubelab SSE, but it will take me a while to get comfortable with the AC!

Dave
 
That loiks grrat. I also used wood in the cabinet. Lets hope it does dot catch fire.

I ddid not want to let myself handle AC in my first amplifier either. I was pretty nervous when connecting the F5, but it was easier than I thought. F5 besides the PSU is almost as simple as the Camp amp. I did not bother with quality parts with the camp amp though. The F-5 was a prestige project.
 
As always I'm late to the party. Does anyone know if the full kits (or even the chassis) will be restocked. I have a possible lead on a silver chassis with boards and the bits for the board, but really like the looks of the red/black. If they're not gonna be restocked then I'll most likely go for the silver. Shallow, I know, but red is my favorite color :)
 
No Idea on the restock ... I happen to have a set of the Hard to find SK-170 Transisors, AKA Q4, if you go for the boards only, let me know via private message, and I'll send them too you. ( Please don't take them just for the sake of it!)

Also note: The resistor mod IS included on the current rev of the board, I stuffed in a 2.2K .5 watt as that is what I could get my hands on at the local store. All the others are .4 watt, and I did not order at the same time.

I just did the build, so it is very fresh in my mind if you happen to have questions.
 
And now for the photos ....
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Not quite 1/2 way done, followed the order EXACTLY as spelled out in the guide.

I forgot to post it, but I use a build notebook, I use a three column check off for every component. Measure, stuff solder.

At the time I ordered, digi-key was out of the exact pot, so I went with one just a bit bigger and had to bend the center pin.

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First side working, you can just see the one brown 2.2K resistor as I had to order locally not from digi-key

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second board working, you can see the slightly too big blue pot in the back

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One Chan full test