Yes, it Is worth the $700 or $900 if you buy poorly.
You need only decide if you need the amp! It is quite specific, this amp, it claims nothing it cannot do. I think the problems folks have with stereos is that they don’t know what they need and don’t know what they like. That’s a valid place to stand if you admit it up front
You need only decide if you need the amp! It is quite specific, this amp, it claims nothing it cannot do. I think the problems folks have with stereos is that they don’t know what they need and don’t know what they like. That’s a valid place to stand if you admit it up front
It's worth a whole lot more.
When people ask me what amp to build, I've been telling them Aleph J for many years now. Nobody has been disappointed. Everybody absolutely loves this amp. Why? It's absolutely gorgeous sounding, the differences in class-A are real, and it got a whole lot of the single-ended magic.
Hell yes it is worth it and more. This is a great sounding amp. The instructions that 6L6 has made were easy to follow. Just build it.
Now do yourself a favor and buy the amp chassis from the DIY store. I made my own to save money and by the time I bought all the materials I did not save that much. The prices on the amp chassis they sell are really good.
It's worth a whole lot more.
When people ask me what amp to build, I've been telling them Aleph J for many years now. Nobody has been disappointed. Everybody absolutely loves this amp. Why? It's absolutely gorgeous sounding, the differences in class-A are real, and it got a whole lot of the single-ended magic.
i learned something a few years back, there is a lot of 'smoke', 'snake oil' or hype in the audio industry. this is why i ask the poignant question - is it worth it?
$700 is not as outrageous as $10k, but since it is possible to buy a power amp from ebay for less than $700 that has more than 25/w channel power output, this is a pertinent question.
so to me the issue is that if a $200 amp & a $500 amp sound about the same, then cost is the primary motivator - it's the $200 amp for me. but if the aleph j sounds better than anything i've ever heard, i'd be real surprised. i've heard some good ones.
but, it is nice to be surprised, isn't it!
You did not specify which amplifiers you consider "good ones", but if after hearing them you still think a $200 amplifier will satisfy you, don't bother with the Aleph J.
"so to me the issue is that if a $200 amp & a $500 amp sound about the same, then cost is the primary motivator - it's the $200 amp for me. but if the aleph j sounds better than anything i've ever heard, i'd be real surprised. i've heard some good ones."
No one can say what you can hear. But those that have outstanding hearing can hear the difference between a Class A amplifier and other classes. Does a $500 amplifier sound good enough, maybe depending on the model. For me nothing sounds as good as Class A amplifier whether tube or SS. Another question is whether your speakers are good enough to show differences in amplifiers. Most any amplifier will be passable with mediocre speakers.
No one can say what you can hear. But those that have outstanding hearing can hear the difference between a Class A amplifier and other classes. Does a $500 amplifier sound good enough, maybe depending on the model. For me nothing sounds as good as Class A amplifier whether tube or SS. Another question is whether your speakers are good enough to show differences in amplifiers. Most any amplifier will be passable with mediocre speakers.
Hey Nuconz,
First of all, echoing others here, it's definitely worth the investment.
I just finished my J yesterday.
I've tried to come up with a very rough figure based on what I spent. Keep in mind this is extremely rough and I may have forgotten some things but it gives you an idea:
- Aleph J PCB: $25
- Matched S74’s: $55
- Aleph J parts Mouser: about $80 - I'm inflating this a bit, I think it was lower.
- PSU PCB: $25
- PSU parts Mouser: about $50
- Dissipante Steel chassis no heatsink holes $189 (shipping included from Italy) You’ll have to tap the holes in the sinks. It's certainly easier—a lot easier—to get the Deluxe 4U but it’s over $300. What’s nice though is you can fit about any diyaudo amp PCB in there later, F5 etc.
If you go with the steel Dissipante route you’ll need a tap, drill bit set and tap tool for holes in heatsink which could be anywhere from $10 to $30. Print out the UMS template available at diyaudio store and tape it to the heatsink to punch the holes accurately. I got a 3mm Irwin set from Amazon but it was just the taps. I can't remember what the 2.5mm drill bit cost. Not that much though, especially if you have Prime since you don’t pay shipping. Prime is handy for all those little hardware/tool type things you’ll need along the way. However, if you don't have a lot of experience drilling and tapping I would probably start out with the Deluxe 4U.
- Back panel kit Diyaudio store: $79. I didn't get this for this project but I did for my F5 and it was pretty handy to have everything all together, especially all the little things like standoffs, fender washers etc. If you get this, when ordering your chassis from the diyaudio store, be sure to get the option with the back panel holes precut. Much easier.
All boards and chassises are from the diyaudio store. BTW, an invaluable resource and a great, responsive staff.
- Antek transfo AS-4218 (shipping included): $65 from the Antek website.
So that’s a total of roughly $588—with steel chassis, More with the Deluxe. This doesn’t include shipping unless noted and as always there will be those things that pop up along the way. But that's part of the fun. Also not counting things like wire.
At any rate it definitely is worth it—and you will have built it yourself to boot! After my first listen last night, I’m kind thinking I might like it better than my F5 or even my Sony VFET DIY.
Good luck!
i love it when someone attempts to invalidate something i say or make me believe that what i hear isn't 'good enough'.
there are so many variables in the 'audio experience', that it is difficult to pinpoint the most critical. however, it has been noted by most 'experts' that the difference in performance between components in 'the amplification stage' is insignificant and has been for so many years now since most meet or exceed certain crucial specifications.
as i said - "but, it is nice to be surprised, isn't it!"!
it is nice to be surprised. an interesting point that needs to be re-introduced is that many class AB amplifiers operate in class A mode up to a certain output.
VFET diy, huh? i heard one of the original VFET Yamaha amps. it sounded good, but never 'caught on'. might have been too pricey. a lot of these amps like the class H, G & VFETs didn't go mainstream.
you like to shop around for value, which is the way i shop.
thanks jester.
anyone in the gainesville or jacksonville, florida area? i live in the lake city area.
i would love to hear one of these amps.
Mine is the short 4u case, and it gets pretty warm (110ºF, or 44ºC) but the heat sinks are adequate, so you don't need a 5u case.
the old phase linear, original carver amps, & crown dc300 were about the worst i've ever heard that were considered 'high fidelity' amps. of course any PA amp that you ever hear fits into this category.
some of the ones that were touted to be the 'best' didn't sound better to me. bryston, mark levinson, perreaux, etc., basically all the ones with the 'fancy' names that cost a lot of $.
sometimes it was a matter of matching the amp to the speakers. this might have had something to do with damping factor, which is highly debated.
one of the best i've ever heard was a carver TFM amp. man, it sounded real good.
