AKSA's Lender Preamp with 40Vpp Ouput GB

[Vunce]

Hand solder the electrolytic caps after you’ve completed hotplate/hot air phase. Those elco’s block the air from the low profile components and sometimes the plastic base can melt if your not familiar with heating times.

That tiny diode is killer!

 

[Kokanee]

Vunce,
I was also wondering about how the caps were handled by hot air. Thanks for the tip. Hopefully that tiny diode will be nice to me. I bit the bullet and ordered up some 10K ohm 0805 size for R2, rather than trying to fit a 0603 across the pads (see post 617).
Thanks all for the help.

 

[xrk971]

Hi X,
I made a mistake on my BOM for the 0805/1206 DB's. I only ordered the 10K ohm 1206 size for R10, and forgot about R2.
R2 needs to be 10K ohm 0805 size and 1/8W. I have some 10K ohm 0603 size and 1/10W that I ordered for the PDM board. I think I can make it just fit on the DB pads. Is it OK to use it, as it is a little less wattage?
Thanks,
MM

This is fine. That 10k doesn’t dissipate any heat. The 0805 size was more for ease of installation.

 

[Kokanee]

Hi X,
I got one of the ALP 0805/1206 boards soldered up using the skillet/solder paste technique. It worked pretty well, only had to do a few touch ups. I heated up the right end of the R10 10K carbon resistor to reposition it, and as I was pressing on it with the iron it moved, but the solder pad came with it. I managed to get it soldered again, but it looks flimsy.

I checked for continuity with the bad end of R10, and there is no continuity to R12 & R16. There is continuity with R12 & R16 from the pad at the right end of R10. I think the pad was made in case a long resistor was used. I would like to solder a resistor lead from R10 to the pad. I think this would solve my problem with R10. Any problems with this ?

Please see pic attached, and thanks for the help.
MM