measure
That's right, you have to measure the connectors or download the engineering drawings to ensure that you put the holes in the right places. That's the weakness of frontpanel express, the library is kind of weak. I think there are neutrik xlrs and 9 pin DINs in there though, and fan cutouts. Like I said...
That's right, you have to measure the connectors or download the engineering drawings to ensure that you put the holes in the right places. That's the weakness of frontpanel express, the library is kind of weak. I think there are neutrik xlrs and 9 pin DINs in there though, and fan cutouts. Like I said...
http://www.lansing-enclosures.com/
Lansing makes solid enclsoures. Check out the greybox line in particular. Modular, rack mountable options, and they can custom cut and print for you.
But probably not "cheap" to most people. Base enclosures for a 2U full width rack are something over 150 USD for the "base model".
Matt
Lansing makes solid enclsoures. Check out the greybox line in particular. Modular, rack mountable options, and they can custom cut and print for you.
But probably not "cheap" to most people. Base enclosures for a 2U full width rack are something over 150 USD for the "base model".
Matt
This is an ancient thread but I'm bumping it anyway.
Regarding the most recent question, "can [you] have a front panel machined rather than buy a custom front panel," the answer is "yes." Depending on the thickness of the material, pretty much anyone with a milling machine can cut a rectangular hole pretty easily. Curves are more challenging and will typically be done on a CNC (computer controlled) mill, which are now pretty common.
My suggestion is that you find a local smaller machine shop and go there right after lunch, and see if you can talk to someone about the project, and ask them how or where you might go to get something like this done. Depending on any number of variables, you might walk out the door 15 minutes later with the job done for $10 or so. If they're gruff and unhelpful, thank them and ask them if there's somewhere else they'd recommend, then try them. With any luck, you find a place where you'll talk to the owner, and he'll turn out to find your little project interesting, and help you out as a good deed. You may even find someone who you can work out some trade deals with, maybe you build an amp while they build two cases, and you're both happy.
The irony of this for me is that after I got back into DIY electronics, I was so sick of paying $30 for crummy aluminum boxes that I started building my own CNC mill to build nicer-looking cases. www.cnczone.com if you'd like to learn more. You may also have luck finding hobby machinists near you that have the equipment to do what you need.
Regarding the most recent question, "can [you] have a front panel machined rather than buy a custom front panel," the answer is "yes." Depending on the thickness of the material, pretty much anyone with a milling machine can cut a rectangular hole pretty easily. Curves are more challenging and will typically be done on a CNC (computer controlled) mill, which are now pretty common.
My suggestion is that you find a local smaller machine shop and go there right after lunch, and see if you can talk to someone about the project, and ask them how or where you might go to get something like this done. Depending on any number of variables, you might walk out the door 15 minutes later with the job done for $10 or so. If they're gruff and unhelpful, thank them and ask them if there's somewhere else they'd recommend, then try them. With any luck, you find a place where you'll talk to the owner, and he'll turn out to find your little project interesting, and help you out as a good deed. You may even find someone who you can work out some trade deals with, maybe you build an amp while they build two cases, and you're both happy.
The irony of this for me is that after I got back into DIY electronics, I was so sick of paying $30 for crummy aluminum boxes that I started building my own CNC mill to build nicer-looking cases. www.cnczone.com if you'd like to learn more. You may also have luck finding hobby machinists near you that have the equipment to do what you need.
Just what do you want to do, on how big a piece of material exactly?
By inscribing do you mean engraving letters or patterns onto a faceplate or something of that sort? YMMV but that's fairly ordinary work for anyone with a CNC mill. The main thing to bear in mind is that most cutting tools cut a round shape, so single-stroke fonts give the most consistent results. If you only need markings (as opposed to drilling through) you might consider laser engraving, which can do much finer details more easily. You can cut aluminum with a laser but it requires a very powerful laser since the Al sinks the heat so efficiently. So if you need full cutting a milling machine will work better.
I'd suggest that you go in with DXF-format drawings and paper printouts showing exactly what you want. You can get free basic CAD software from eMachineShop.com and use their package to generate DXFs that most CNC shops can use to program their mills. I'd also have a dimensioned printout in case they prefer to do it their way.
I would draw things based on what you want the finished size to be, and keep it as simple as possible. If you have any parts that are critical to fit and finish, bring them along so you can show the machinist what it is you're trying to do, and let him suggest the best way to do it.
If you're looking to do a small number, you'll need to be patient, lucky, or wealthy. If you're making 100 of somehting, you can set machines and jigs up to make the work go faster and save labor and machine runtime, but if you're doing onesie-twosies then you don't get any efficiencies. Knocking a few holes in a 1-5mm sheet is basic enough that you could probably do it on a manual mill in 5-10min with very little setup. But once you want engravings, etc, you start needing to run a CNC job and that means setup and machine time which at some point you'll have to pay normal prices for. CNC stinks for one piece but is great for dozens or hundreds.
By inscribing do you mean engraving letters or patterns onto a faceplate or something of that sort? YMMV but that's fairly ordinary work for anyone with a CNC mill. The main thing to bear in mind is that most cutting tools cut a round shape, so single-stroke fonts give the most consistent results. If you only need markings (as opposed to drilling through) you might consider laser engraving, which can do much finer details more easily. You can cut aluminum with a laser but it requires a very powerful laser since the Al sinks the heat so efficiently. So if you need full cutting a milling machine will work better.
I'd suggest that you go in with DXF-format drawings and paper printouts showing exactly what you want. You can get free basic CAD software from eMachineShop.com and use their package to generate DXFs that most CNC shops can use to program their mills. I'd also have a dimensioned printout in case they prefer to do it their way.
I would draw things based on what you want the finished size to be, and keep it as simple as possible. If you have any parts that are critical to fit and finish, bring them along so you can show the machinist what it is you're trying to do, and let him suggest the best way to do it.
If you're looking to do a small number, you'll need to be patient, lucky, or wealthy. If you're making 100 of somehting, you can set machines and jigs up to make the work go faster and save labor and machine runtime, but if you're doing onesie-twosies then you don't get any efficiencies. Knocking a few holes in a 1-5mm sheet is basic enough that you could probably do it on a manual mill in 5-10min with very little setup. But once you want engravings, etc, you start needing to run a CNC job and that means setup and machine time which at some point you'll have to pay normal prices for. CNC stinks for one piece but is great for dozens or hundreds.
Santarpio's is the real deal. As someone who grew up in NY it's one of a very few places around here that has _good_ pizza.
Case-wise I'm working on the transition from working in wood to plastic and aluminum. These open up a lot more possibilities but it's really just an excuse to spend $$$ on new tools.
Case-wise I'm working on the transition from working in wood to plastic and aluminum. These open up a lot more possibilities but it's really just an excuse to spend $$$ on new tools.
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