Advice on a 15"+ sealed subwoofer design

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tinitus said:
Frequency response BMS 18" - well I may not have been totally wrong about that - it says about the 18" "neo" driver with +/-13mm linear stroke that its measurements are specified in 150liter closed box - Vb/Fb 150 L/ 28hz - seems to me it is almost straight down to 30hz


That's with a vent. Tuned to 28 Hz. Sealed box looks to be app. -23dB@ 30Hz, w/150L sealed, which is more in-line with what I'd expect.
 
With the power ratings of the woofers I'm finding in this price range, it appears that I won't be able to fully utilize the amp unless I build a higher Q box.

Designing an inefficient subwoofer just so you can stress your amplifier seems rather silly, and it will increase distortion.

IMO, build a low Q box and minimize the amount of equalization.

IMO2, use two 12" drivers instead of one 15" or 18", and face them in opposite directions. Keep the enclosure baffles tall and narrow so the mechanical forces of the two subs can cancel out without flexing the baffles. You can use .75" MDF all around and your enclosure will vibrate less than the guys using one 15" driver and 4" baffles.

IMO3, use two 12" Dayton Reference Hi Fidelity subs, so you can hear bass instead of harmonics.

Dan
 
Could anyone point me to a good example of a sealed dual driver enclosure on the web. Part of the reason for me choosing a single driver sealed enclosure was the ease of design. This is my first subwoofer project so I wanted to keep it simple. However, I'm open to other designs provided the box is sealed.

Wouldn't a dual opposing woofer configuration limit placement of the sub in a room?

As for designing an enclosure to fit my amplifier, if I build a sub that cannot take advantage of the 1000W amp, I'll use a smaller amp and save the larger one for a later project. Ideally, the large amplifier should provide the sub with a useable, but rarely used, SPL level since I'm not trying to create the smallest box possible.

Thanks,
Gary
 
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