Tim,
Thanks for the run-through of the xover components, but I actually meant I don't know the spec of the trannie.
You are more adventurous than me with regard to the panels, good luck with that. One thing I did notice is that Final state in their handbook that you can use a vacuum cleaner attachment to clean the dust of them. When I tried that with the old panels, the suction actually broke a couple of the very fine conductive wires in the panel. Also, I don't believe Final when they say they have a special coating that repels dust, etc. Recently I've found a couple of small moths stuck to the panels (one on the film itself) and there are some very tiny bits of packing material stuck to the film in some places that careful use of the vacuum won't remove.
Incidentally I think it would be a good idea to insert some thick felt between the panels and the bass bins, you could use a couple of small bits of velcro to attach it.
Tim
Thanks for the run-through of the xover components, but I actually meant I don't know the spec of the trannie.
You are more adventurous than me with regard to the panels, good luck with that. One thing I did notice is that Final state in their handbook that you can use a vacuum cleaner attachment to clean the dust of them. When I tried that with the old panels, the suction actually broke a couple of the very fine conductive wires in the panel. Also, I don't believe Final when they say they have a special coating that repels dust, etc. Recently I've found a couple of small moths stuck to the panels (one on the film itself) and there are some very tiny bits of packing material stuck to the film in some places that careful use of the vacuum won't remove.
Incidentally I think it would be a good idea to insert some thick felt between the panels and the bass bins, you could use a couple of small bits of velcro to attach it.
Tim
Hi,
I build myself 4 final03 clones and for the electronics I used a set of the NSS03 (diy print and components)
It looks to me the electronics are exactly the same as the final03
I had to solder all the components myself (it's a DIY kit)
The delivered trannys are grey encapsulated ringcore types. I dont know if these are the same as the ones used by final
picture:
Shot at 2006-09-27
by the way
These are my finished diy speakers:
wire panels and RVS housing were build from scratch.
Shot at 2007-03-02
Geert
I build myself 4 final03 clones and for the electronics I used a set of the NSS03 (diy print and components)
It looks to me the electronics are exactly the same as the final03
I had to solder all the components myself (it's a DIY kit)
The delivered trannys are grey encapsulated ringcore types. I dont know if these are the same as the ones used by final
picture:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Shot at 2006-09-27
by the way
These are my finished diy speakers:
wire panels and RVS housing were build from scratch.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Shot at 2007-03-02
Geert
Geert - very nice indeed!
Tim - excuse my ignorance, but are you saying that all the small (black box) power trannie inside the bass bins does is simply step back up to 230VAC? If so, what is the point? I thought it provided a substantial polarising voltage. But I must admit to not understanding the esl section, I'm very new to this kind of cct. Could you do me a big favour and take me through the cct, component by component on the HF side after the xover filter?
Tim
Tim - excuse my ignorance, but are you saying that all the small (black box) power trannie inside the bass bins does is simply step back up to 230VAC? If so, what is the point? I thought it provided a substantial polarising voltage. But I must admit to not understanding the esl section, I'm very new to this kind of cct. Could you do me a big favour and take me through the cct, component by component on the HF side after the xover filter?
Tim
Yes, but there could be reasons why it is better to do it this way, possibly as it isolates the circuit from the mains. I'm on a learning curve too
The small power transformer simply supplies 230Vac to a basic voltage multiplier circuit which "multiplies" the voltage a number of times and rectifies it to DC to be fed to the panel. This type of circuit is used in the ESL-57 (albeit fed by 610Vac) and the ESL-63, to name but two. A full explanation (better than I could attampt) of how the circuit works can be found here..
http://home.earthlink.net/~jimlux/hv/cw1.htm
The voltage multiplier circuit in the Final 0.3 consists of the diodes/capacitors beside the power transformer on the xover board. The approximate voltage to the panels can be calculated from the number of components used in the actual circuit (sometimes diode pairs are used in place of single diodes in order to raise their effective voltage rating, though IIRC Final used singles).
TimA
Tim,
Thanks for the explanation and the link - I'm learning albeit slowly. I've just bought a 9VAC adaptor off eBay. It supplies 10.5V whereas my modified originals, with the added 15ohm resistance in the positive line, measure 12.5V when running the panels.
The difference between 12.5 and 10.V is astonishing - I guess an effect of the multiplier cct. I think 12.5 V is a little too much and I'd like to drop it to 11.5-12V, however, 10.5V makes the panel too quiet in relation to the cone. I'm not going to settle on a value until I move house, as now the Final's are set up in a temporary small bedroom and I'm pretty close, and this in itself may be causing an apparent slight hardened tone from the panels.
When newly housed, I'm also going to add an extra 0.1uF bypass capacitor to the HF filter, change the internal bass-side wiring, and add some damping to the bass-bins, which are not as inert as I first thought.
I still think the potential of these speakers justifies all this effort. I think the basic design really works, I can only detect the panel/cone crossover on test material, not when I'm listening to music. With a little further tuning I think they will make an ideal compromise between room-dominating and wallet-busting big panels and domestic harmony.
Tim
Thanks for the explanation and the link - I'm learning albeit slowly. I've just bought a 9VAC adaptor off eBay. It supplies 10.5V whereas my modified originals, with the added 15ohm resistance in the positive line, measure 12.5V when running the panels.
The difference between 12.5 and 10.V is astonishing - I guess an effect of the multiplier cct. I think 12.5 V is a little too much and I'd like to drop it to 11.5-12V, however, 10.5V makes the panel too quiet in relation to the cone. I'm not going to settle on a value until I move house, as now the Final's are set up in a temporary small bedroom and I'm pretty close, and this in itself may be causing an apparent slight hardened tone from the panels.
When newly housed, I'm also going to add an extra 0.1uF bypass capacitor to the HF filter, change the internal bass-side wiring, and add some damping to the bass-bins, which are not as inert as I first thought.
I still think the potential of these speakers justifies all this effort. I think the basic design really works, I can only detect the panel/cone crossover on test material, not when I'm listening to music. With a little further tuning I think they will make an ideal compromise between room-dominating and wallet-busting big panels and domestic harmony.
Tim
My 0.3s (S/N 2000 30626) feature the lighter, encapsulated transformer, so we seem to have narrowed the revision point down to a range of just 9 pairs! I suspect that the change to a lighter transformer was one of a series of changes, including the plug-in transformer, etc.
The PCB remains the same, however, including the original holes/solder pads for the larger transformer. I intend to have a pair wound. Tim, would you be kind enough to measure and provide the specs?
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