hi guys!
i'd like to bi-amp my 3-way speakers. to do it properly, i need an active crossover. The passive crossover crosses at 300, and 3500 hertz. It is my intention to use an active crossover at 300 hertz, and keep the passive one at 3500 hertz.
does anyone of you have experience with a variable crossover as used in the world of PA? Is it a bad thing that the passive crossover in my speakers is of a 4th- or 3th-order, and that most active crossovers are 1st-order?
any help would be appreciated!
keyser
i'd like to bi-amp my 3-way speakers. to do it properly, i need an active crossover. The passive crossover crosses at 300, and 3500 hertz. It is my intention to use an active crossover at 300 hertz, and keep the passive one at 3500 hertz.
does anyone of you have experience with a variable crossover as used in the world of PA? Is it a bad thing that the passive crossover in my speakers is of a 4th- or 3th-order, and that most active crossovers are 1st-order?
any help would be appreciated!
keyser
Re: Re: active X-over
oops....
I thought about that the other way around (first order being 24db, 4th order being 6 db)
the project blu_line suggested is of a 4th order design (Yes... 24 db)
De crossover in my speakers is probably of a lower order. Would using a 4th order filter where the manufacturer of the speaker chose for a lower order filter?
Bill Fitzpatrick said:
oops....
I thought about that the other way around (first order being 24db, 4th order being 6 db)
the project blu_line suggested is of a 4th order design (Yes... 24 db)
De crossover in my speakers is probably of a lower order. Would using a 4th order filter where the manufacturer of the speaker chose for a lower order filter?
I jumped the gun on my recommendation.
The mfg. might have chosen a lower order because it was cheaper or they might have done some response tailoring with the passive network.
The problem with trying to replace a passive with an active is that usually you do not have enough information about what the passive is doing, particularly with the mid to tweet cross.
For the woof to mid it's less of a problem. One concern is the phase. If the mfg. used 2nd highpass and 2nd lowpass they probably reversed the phase of one of the drivers. With a 4th order you would have to maintain same polarity.
To go further and be correct you should have a schematic of the woof/mid crossover and parts values along with, at least, the DC resistance of the drivers.
Given the relatively low cost of the parts to built the active crossover proposed you might want to give it a shot, especially if you could use it elsewhere or sell it if things didn't work out.
The mfg. might have chosen a lower order because it was cheaper or they might have done some response tailoring with the passive network.
The problem with trying to replace a passive with an active is that usually you do not have enough information about what the passive is doing, particularly with the mid to tweet cross.
For the woof to mid it's less of a problem. One concern is the phase. If the mfg. used 2nd highpass and 2nd lowpass they probably reversed the phase of one of the drivers. With a 4th order you would have to maintain same polarity.
To go further and be correct you should have a schematic of the woof/mid crossover and parts values along with, at least, the DC resistance of the drivers.
Given the relatively low cost of the parts to built the active crossover proposed you might want to give it a shot, especially if you could use it elsewhere or sell it if things didn't work out.
thanks for the input, Bill.
I guess what you're saying is that a 4th-order filter would be okay, but that i need more info about the original passive x-over to know how to connect and set it all up.
would a picture of the x-over tell you enough about it to know what type it is? Are there things I could look at myself?
I guess what you're saying is that a 4th-order filter would be okay, but that i need more info about the original passive x-over to know how to connect and set it all up.
would a picture of the x-over tell you enough about it to know what type it is? Are there things I could look at myself?
Just saw that the behringer features a phase reverse-switch for every channel and between low- and high. Do I still need to know whether the manufacturer reversed the phase or not?
for more info on the behringer:
http://www.behringer.com/CX2310/index.cfm?lang=ENG
for more info on the behringer:
http://www.behringer.com/CX2310/index.cfm?lang=ENG
Just to give you an idea for a diy solution http://www.delta-audio.com/Active filter one.htm
Jan, i liked that crosover very much, but i think the pcb's were a litle bit over the top sp to say, i'm a student, and 80 usd is a lot of money for me. but could one get away with just using one board for a stereo 2 way system by cutting some pcb tracs or something? i really doubt that i can etch something with traces so thin in an ordinary acid bath. or am i wrong?
ACD said:demogorgon:
I was only surgesting that you could get some ideas by looking at the schematic
damn, you are actually making me think for myself?
what a harsh world we live in..
Edit: Jan, really appreciate the effort you have put into the documentation of the pcb's, and making it public! i actually got something out of just skimming trough the filter documentation.
I'l have to study it some more to be able to put the info to practical use, but it didn't seem to be too complicated at first glance.
-marius
The behringer comes in next tuesday. I am not sure about how to disconnect the passive crossover. The mid to high x-over will have to stay, but the low to mid had to be bypassed. Do i just disconnect the wires to the woofer, and then connect wires from the speaker terminals directly to the woofer?
Do i have to place some kind of big resistor between de loose cables that come from the passive x-over?
Do i have to place some kind of big resistor between de loose cables that come from the passive x-over?
