no, it says you need another balsie lite if you want to combine to single ended. but ut uses the onboard balsie to combine the 2 balanced channels, but thats only because of the way the mono mode in the BIII and BII is set up. do you have the ES9018/2 datasheet?
but you arent limited to the standard settings as you use arduino
remember each of the dacs is an individual dac, you will need to mess with dac polarity/phase settings for each dac individually, thats how they set the mono setting up to begin with, you need to make a new one and work out how this needs to combine, parallel some dacs into the NTD1.
given its not set up for BIII anyway, its not like you were ever going to connect via stacking headers. think it through... there i've given you all the hints. you really should be able to work it out from here...
but you arent limited to the standard settings as you use arduino
remember each of the dacs is an individual dac, you will need to mess with dac polarity/phase settings for each dac individually, thats how they set the mono setting up to begin with, you need to make a new one and work out how this needs to combine, parallel some dacs into the NTD1.
given its not set up for BIII anyway, its not like you were ever going to connect via stacking headers. think it through... there i've given you all the hints. you really should be able to work it out from here...
HifIdunio's code already have the setting for dual mono. According to BIII guide, if my understanding is correct, BIII will output to both channels even in Mono mode and I have to combine both outputs before or after the I/V stage. Thanks again for your advice, I still have time to find it out.
As mentioned by you and Owen, there is no significant benefit to run dual mono except a little more gain. So I may not go for it.
As mentioned by you and Owen, there is no significant benefit to run dual mono except a little more gain. So I may not go for it.
i'm not talking about THAT mono setting, its the same one as in the BII/III FW. there is no 'mono' register, the mono setting is just a combination of dac polarity settings for dac ID 0 and another set of dac polarity settings for DAC 1, you just need to come up with your own to suit the purpose
I mean I agree its marginal, I would not recommend someone do mono if asked, but if you have decided already, there is a way to do it, but the BIII or BII FW just doesnt allow for it
I mean I agree its marginal, I would not recommend someone do mono if asked, but if you have decided already, there is a way to do it, but the BIII or BII FW just doesnt allow for it
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If enough people are interested, yes, I think so. Still we need to reach some kind of consensus regarding connectors etc. This does not only apply to the type of connectors, but also brands as mounting hole diameters may differ between brands (which is one reason I go for Neutrik; most, if not all, of their connectors use a round 23.6 mm mounting hole).
Also, last time I checked, we were 10 on the enclosure GB list and since then qusp hinted that he might not be able to participate in that GB, leaving 9 of us (some of which haven't said a word on what customizations/connectors they want), which in turn might mean we won't get a great discount anyway.
If noone else feels up for it, I can contact Siliconray and see what we can do in terms of pricing and customizations, but I think they would need to send the cases straight to all buyers as if they go through me everyone will pay a ~3% customs fee and 25% VAT on top of that. That and the fact that ~10 large *** boxed up cases will fill up my apartment
All my stuff is black so I would consider black but I don't think we'll reach an overall agreement on this chassis. I would love to but seems like it will be hard... Knockout connectors would make it better for everyone not wanting unnecessary holes in their chassis but the cost of doing this could be restrictive.
Anyway, I'm all ears for now.
Do
Yes, I agree. Having lots of knockouts for connectors/display will probably eat away at whatever discount we'll get by buying together.
A more sensible option is of course to get only the rectangular cut outs done, since they are the trickiest, and everyone can add round connectors at their own leisure. "All" you need is a proper drill press. Or a regular drill if you're feeling adventurous
If we can agree on, say, specific mounting holes for XLRs that's fine too, but I think we need to go for the least common denominator rather than trying to please anyone and everyone.
Yep, we'll certainly stand a better chance of coming together on this if we're flexible. I'd be good with just getting the difficult holes drilled, then drilling the rest of the ones we each want. Black is good, bare aluminum is good. I'll have it powder coated black if it's not already black
Yep, we'll certainly stand a better chance of coming together on this if we're flexible. I'd be good with just getting the difficult holes drilled, then drilling the rest of the ones we each want. Black is good, bare aluminum is good. I'll have it powder coated black if it's not already black
You're certainly correct on this. On my side I've got all the right tools in the garage to work wood and metal but if I have to anodize or powder coat it, it will be an extra 200$ on top of probably 350$+ with shipping... I'm kinda in between now.
We'll see what the cost will be because right now we have 0 clue. It could be interesting if we're enough to buy into it.
Do
Thank you for your answer,
If you have any IV discrete stage suggestion working good with PCM1704 output, please tell me,
yeah its obvious my email through his site didnt get through, I didnt follow up again because it was still so up in the air and I didnt want to waste his time again, because I contacted him when this GB was winding up last time, not last GB, this one before the delay.
I was suggesting the bare minimum holes just to make it easier to fit everyone and i'm really not keen on my panels being swiss cheese on the back of the panels for holes I wont use. so far the only commonality I share with you guys is a possible powercon and a display... if its thin enough to knock out on purpose, its thin enough to knockout by accident, or in shipping etc.
of course there IS a lot f work we can get done that IS common to all of us, all the dac mounting and NTD1 stuff. but I dont think there is any way we can have a finished case that will work for everyone
all one colour, no two tone. if we arent getting it fully how we want it means it would need re-anodising after any work done and I asked about black, the numbers needed was prohibitive
I was suggesting the bare minimum holes just to make it easier to fit everyone and i'm really not keen on my panels being swiss cheese on the back of the panels for holes I wont use. so far the only commonality I share with you guys is a possible powercon and a display... if its thin enough to knock out on purpose, its thin enough to knockout by accident, or in shipping etc.
of course there IS a lot f work we can get done that IS common to all of us, all the dac mounting and NTD1 stuff. but I dont think there is any way we can have a finished case that will work for everyone
all one colour, no two tone. if we arent getting it fully how we want it means it would need re-anodising after any work done and I asked about black, the numbers needed was prohibitive
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My primary motivation of joining the enclosure GB is to have a cooling solution with pre-drilled holes for the NTD1. The panel customization for me is secondary and negotiable, for example: cut-out for an LCD panel is ok with me, I did not plan to use one, but I can see myself adding one after having a functioning IV stage.
exactly, its not like any of us is used to buying cases exactly how we want them, they always need work. As you say the best thing about this case is its attractive, reasonably priced and has suitable size and heatsinking for this dac without being a poweramp case. I think we need to focus on what is common and that is the need to house the NTD1 and ESS dac.
I already have all the heatsink drill template info from last round so thats covered, we just need to figure out what additional mounting arrangements are needed for regulators etc. the internal stuff is pretty flexible. we should have one wall to wall off the transformers and one floor which can mount Fifo, USB etc, additional input circuitry and possibly an MCU/arduino etc.
so we should start by working out what we have in common, then see what of the rest we can all live with.
Mike from SiliconRay got back to me and said that 10 pcs of a custom RE3220WH should work out at about the same price per piece as the standard offering, which seems fair. I specifically asked if we could get it it all black, so hopefully that's included in the price.
Apart from the heatsink tapping (which I assume everyone wants) and as I said before, the non-circular stuff is what I think we should focus on. What springs into my mind then is the following:
- IEC outlet on the back (Does everyone want one? I'm leaning more towards powercon thanks to its locking feature, but I'll go with whatever the majority decides.)
- Toslink input on the back (Do most people want one and can the others live with the small hole?)
- LCD/VFD opeing on front
The last item is probably where we will have to reach some sort of compromise. You who are not planning to use a display, can you accept the way the original case looks in this respect? I mean, the opening is clearly visible from the front, but at least it's not an empty, black hole.
Also, do we want a momentary switch on the front? If yes, we can perhaps get it nicely recessed (again, like the standard case).
Apart from the heatsink tapping (which I assume everyone wants) and as I said before, the non-circular stuff is what I think we should focus on. What springs into my mind then is the following:
- IEC outlet on the back (Does everyone want one? I'm leaning more towards powercon thanks to its locking feature, but I'll go with whatever the majority decides.)
- Toslink input on the back (Do most people want one and can the others live with the small hole?)
- LCD/VFD opeing on front
The last item is probably where we will have to reach some sort of compromise. You who are not planning to use a display, can you accept the way the original case looks in this respect? I mean, the opening is clearly visible from the front, but at least it's not an empty, black hole.
Also, do we want a momentary switch on the front? If yes, we can perhaps get it nicely recessed (again, like the standard case).
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