DcibeL:
I wanted to be sure and say how much I like your choice of dimesions for the loudspeaker. The overall height to width ratio, the upper to lower section height ratio, the woofer to width ratio. Using depth to dial in encloure volume. You get that meaty took up top, graceful overall. Should be a good looking furniture when the finish goes on! Thanks for posting.
patch
I wanted to be sure and say how much I like your choice of dimesions for the loudspeaker. The overall height to width ratio, the upper to lower section height ratio, the woofer to width ratio. Using depth to dial in encloure volume. You get that meaty took up top, graceful overall. Should be a good looking furniture when the finish goes on! Thanks for posting.
patch
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Joined 2003
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Joined 2003
Hopefully these two photos give you a good idea of the difference between the cone material (don't mind the black dot, that was me):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I've read somewhere (Weems?) about avoiding placing the woofer 1/5th from the end of the tower as it can excite pipe resonances. Where this manifests itself I'm not sure. Yours is placed close to 1/5th from the end of the top of the tower. Maybe sufficient bracing (vertical preferred here as sreten says) and some wall damping may mitigate.
Others may be able to clarify.
Others may be able to clarify.
Dave Bullet said:
Hi,
It is true of the port was right at the bottom it would be a MLQWT.
TBH is does not matter where you put the driver - you will get some
vertical standing mode issues depending on the stuffing density.
However lining the whole thing with foam and stuffing the top half
with sensible port placement should mitigate most of the issues.
A horizontal brace below the bass driver can help to break it up.
/sreten.
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Joined 2003
I just sent Solen an email yesterday evening. If I don't hear from them by tomorrow I'll give them a call tomorrow on my lunch break.marchel said:
The phase plugs are very well aligned. The voice coil sits very close to them so I don't think they could be very far off from centre without dragging on the voice coil. I think as long as you get two of the same driver there's not much to worry about. Like I said earlier, I would have thought that by now all the old DST speaker stock would have been cleared out.
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Joined 2003
I just recieved a reply from Solen. They will exchange a driver free of charge, so it sounds like I will only have to pay shipping one way (to them). They also asked me if I would like one of the old version or the new version, as they had a few of both in stock.
Good news, but now I have to wait even longer to hear my speakers make some noise
[edit: I should add for anyone else who has to return anything to Solen. They stressed that I package the driver very well and insure it when I send it back. I assume from this that if the driver is damaged in any way they will not replace it]
Good news, but now I have to wait even longer to hear my speakers make some noise
[edit: I should add for anyone else who has to return anything to Solen. They stressed that I package the driver very well and insure it when I send it back. I assume from this that if the driver is damaged in any way they will not replace it]
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Joined 2003
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Joined 2003
One assembled. Just have to wait for a driver for the other one, which will likely arrive after xmas.
It's going to take some time getting used to a normal (or should I say correct) amount of bass. I am really just blown away. The sound is so good it's hard to explain with words (describing sound is a lost cause). The off-axis performance is really astonishing. There really isn't a definitive sweet spot with this speaker, and I can move around the room without the sound changing much. But...It's just not the same with only one speaker.
I may have already posted this, but the plan is to paint the baffle and the base black, and use a light coloured veneer on the rest. Probably a birch, maple, or maybe even cherry.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It's going to take some time getting used to a normal (or should I say correct) amount of bass. I am really just blown away. The sound is so good it's hard to explain with words (describing sound is a lost cause). The off-axis performance is really astonishing. There really isn't a definitive sweet spot with this speaker, and I can move around the room without the sound changing much. But...It's just not the same with only one speaker.
I may have already posted this, but the plan is to paint the baffle and the base black, and use a light coloured veneer on the rest. Probably a birch, maple, or maybe even cherry.
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Joined 2003
Of course. Right now I am feeling that the midrange is a bit forward (vocals seem to be standing out above the rest). I don't want to say it sounds bright, but you may be on to something with a little more padding on the tweeter. I'll wait until I have two speakers in front of me though before making any decisions.
Can you post an FR pic? I just built some speakers using the HDS Nomex and 810921 They sound more forward than the Onix Rocket 250 and Scanspeak 9800/Dayton RS150 speakers I built and may be more fatiguing in the long run, though I haven't found them to be that way yet. The other speakers do sound more "refined" or "laidback" but also sort of like the sound is coming from a speaker in a barrel in comparison. The Peerless combo is just a magnitude more natural and real sounding. Nevertheless I was using EQ to try to find a balance between this forwardness and the open, natural quality this combination has. Strings, wind instruments, women's voices and chorus are just wonderful on these. I'm still experimenting but so far I've found a dip from 1k-3k Hz is taming them just enough without ruining all the other qualities. I've developed a new XO using Bessel4 slopes and incorporating this dip. Haven't listened to it though yet. It will use and Lpad but I when I used the EQ I did not find that dropping the tweeter level was that effective in taming the forwardness, you just slowly lost the "magic" of the sound. But I'll reserve full judgement on that until I can listen to the new XO.
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I absolutely love that response graph. But 85db? How much is this costing you (total)? Should be pretty inexpensive. A guy could afford a bigger amp for that response/price point. Remember back when digital first hit the scene? Anything less than 89db SPL @1w/1m was considered not digital ready. That ticked off a lot of manufacturers. I don't remember what consortium it was that made that determination anymore.
Today, the designation is nothing but a marketing tool.
I like the bracing suggestion and I might even think about making it into a round tube with a flat face.
nyaaaaa....
Could one simply tilt the tweeter up by 5 degrees?
Simple, elegant, reasonably small package, must be a great price point. I like.
Today, the designation is nothing but a marketing tool.
I like the bracing suggestion and I might even think about making it into a round tube with a flat face.
nyaaaaa....
Could one simply tilt the tweeter up by 5 degrees?
Simple, elegant, reasonably small package, must be a great price point. I like.
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Joined 2003
85dB is more than you think, and is actually quite good for a single driver system. Many commercial speakers fudge the sensitivity numbers in order to sell more speakers (or just don't use any BSC to bring up the sensitivity). For example Klipsch speakers with their trebel-in-your-face horns. Another example would be to take a design with a smaller woofer such as Zaphs new ER15 design. The ER15 has a sensitivity of 87.5dB. Add some baffle step correction to that and you are quickly below 85dB. The Peerless 830884 that I've chosen for this design has a sensitivity of 89dB, which is quite good in comparison to many 6.5" drivers. To reach that 89dB level with high quality drivers and include BSC you will no doubt require a design incorporating two woofers (2.5way).jdlech said:
Another thing to note about "using a bigger amp" is that the excursion plot shows that I run out of excursion with about 30W input power, at I believe 40Hz (I don't know for sure as I'm at work at the momoent). 30W corresponds to...loud enough.
(edit: forgot about cost)
The price I payed for the cabinets was $250 and of course will be much less of you build yourself. The total for the parts including shipping was about $530. The price of finishing the cabinets is not accounted for here, but I think the price/performance ratio is very good.
I assume you are referring to my choice to place the tweeter beneath the woofer. Yes, tilting the tweeter would be another way to go, I would have to run the simulations to be sure, but I would suspect the crossover would need some adjustment in this instance.jdlech said:
Yes! I've had very little time to listen as I'm quite busy at the moment, but my initial impression is that the sound is as I mentioned above....Sublime...dviswa said:You got your second driver, right? Looking forward to some detailed reviews.
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