Yeah but....
Re-bonjour,
Everything is relative
Would you say that Jeff Rowland's amplifiers (Bridge + parallel I suppose) or any other using parallel devices sounds bad ?
By the way, thank you. I know that you and many other here are trying to give hints to achieve the best possible results and trust me, it is greatly appreciated.
I have a simple pair of Energy Pro 3.5 loudspeakers... I know that they're no really difficult load but I wish to experiment a bit.
And here's my latest attempt using OPA627 with +/- 15V for the Buffer
Continue to send in your comments, they're really appreciated !
Re-bonjour,
Everything is relative
Would you say that Jeff Rowland's amplifiers (Bridge + parallel I suppose) or any other using parallel devices sounds bad ?
By the way, thank you. I know that you and many other here are trying to give hints to achieve the best possible results and trust me, it is greatly appreciated.
I have a simple pair of Energy Pro 3.5 loudspeakers... I know that they're no really difficult load but I wish to experiment a bit.
And here's my latest attempt using OPA627 with +/- 15V for the Buffer
Continue to send in your comments, they're really appreciated !
Attachments
Re: Yeah but....
Konnichiwa,
Compared to otherwise equal designs accepting lower power and using single devices - ABSOLUTELY, assuming the extra power is not essential to have.
I would not know them from Adam....
Looked them up. You know what. IF I WAS YOU and wanted to get more dynamics from them and better sound as a standard gainclone will do I would drive the woofer from a bridged pair of LM3886 with an 24V + 24V Transformer and the tweeter from a single LM3875 Chip.... The 3886 can provide more current than the 3875 and thus a Bridged pair will have more power into the same load.
Or use LM3875 all around and keep the Transformer to 18V + 18V, still plenty of power for the woofer.
By all means fit a buffer and use a low value, high performance coupling cap for the Tweeter section. Using 47nF should be fine, you can get a good Film & Foil Polypropylene Cap for that. Add another Op-Amp working as unity gain inverter after your buffer to form the Bridge for the Woofer.
This bi-amplifies the speaker with up to 45V undistorted short peaks on the woofer, equivalent to around 250WPC conventional Amplifiers in maximum loudness....
You would have a simple "biamplifier" using gainclone technology which IMHO would be MILES ahead of what you are proposing.
BWTFDIK.
Well, if you Invoke Jeff Rowland you should at least have a look at his designs and at how he minimises the problems from paralleling devices. I see non of these in your design.
The best use with your speakers would be to split the outputs up and use this Bi-Amplifier. You can try it yourself. Build as drawn but fit two pairs of Output Binding posts, one for each chip. Then you can add a wirebridge or remove it to switch between "Biamp" and "parallel". Let's see what you hear.....
Sayonara
Konnichiwa,
Elkaid said:
Everything is relative
Would you say that Jeff Rowland's amplifiers (Bridge + parallel I suppose) or any other using parallel devices sounds bad ?
Compared to otherwise equal designs accepting lower power and using single devices - ABSOLUTELY, assuming the extra power is not essential to have.
Elkaid said:
I would not know them from Adam....
Looked them up. You know what. IF I WAS YOU and wanted to get more dynamics from them and better sound as a standard gainclone will do I would drive the woofer from a bridged pair of LM3886 with an 24V + 24V Transformer and the tweeter from a single LM3875 Chip.... The 3886 can provide more current than the 3875 and thus a Bridged pair will have more power into the same load.
Or use LM3875 all around and keep the Transformer to 18V + 18V, still plenty of power for the woofer.
By all means fit a buffer and use a low value, high performance coupling cap for the Tweeter section. Using 47nF should be fine, you can get a good Film & Foil Polypropylene Cap for that. Add another Op-Amp working as unity gain inverter after your buffer to form the Bridge for the Woofer.
This bi-amplifies the speaker with up to 45V undistorted short peaks on the woofer, equivalent to around 250WPC conventional Amplifiers in maximum loudness....
You would have a simple "biamplifier" using gainclone technology which IMHO would be MILES ahead of what you are proposing.
BWTFDIK.
Elkaid said:
Well, if you Invoke Jeff Rowland you should at least have a look at his designs and at how he minimises the problems from paralleling devices. I see non of these in your design.
The best use with your speakers would be to split the outputs up and use this Bi-Amplifier. You can try it yourself. Build as drawn but fit two pairs of Output Binding posts, one for each chip. Then you can add a wirebridge or remove it to switch between "Biamp" and "parallel". Let's see what you hear.....
Sayonara
Merci !
You seems to forget that I'm an amateur and I'm still MILES away before being able to criticize other's design. Moreover, the first thing would be to actually have access at Jeff's schematics.
Here's a quick link : http://www.energyloudspeakers.com/source/Pro_Series_brochure.pdf
I never thought about GC biamping and it looks like a great idea ! Looks like I'll have a lot of work for the next weeks.
Thank you and have a nice day !
You seems to forget that I'm an amateur and I'm still MILES away before being able to criticize other's design. Moreover, the first thing would be to actually have access at Jeff's schematics.
Here's a quick link : http://www.energyloudspeakers.com/source/Pro_Series_brochure.pdf
I never thought about GC biamping and it looks like a great idea ! Looks like I'll have a lot of work for the next weeks.
Thank you and have a nice day !
Konnichiwa,
Well, you shouldn't need them. There where several large size, high quality pictures of the insides of his amp's posted here.... These should suffice.
IF THEY DON'T suffice, maybe it would be worthwhile to simply build already established designs and lear to walk before trying to run?
I would say go for it. The next stop could then be current drive on the tweeter and mixed drive on the woofer plus active X-Overs... ;-)
Sayonara
Elkaid said:
Well, you shouldn't need them. There where several large size, high quality pictures of the insides of his amp's posted here.... These should suffice.
IF THEY DON'T suffice, maybe it would be worthwhile to simply build already established designs and lear to walk before trying to run?
Elkaid said:
I would say go for it. The next stop could then be current drive on the tweeter and mixed drive on the woofer plus active X-Overs... ;-)
Sayonara
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