7" midbass and 1" tweeter for 60$ and 30$, what about SEAS?

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Hi all,

I'm considering a floorstander project, with a 7" midbass and a 1" tweeter. Budget for the drivers is about 60$ and 30$ each, respectively.

My focus is on a 2 way, with well behaved drivers. Something like a paper based midbass (could also be poly, coated paper, etc) that does not need a lot of compensation, and a fabric tweeter.

The enclosure would be a floorstander, possibly a TL or MLTL but I can go for a bass reflex if I run in too much trouble with the first ones.

I'd like to try active XO, that could make things easier for the bafle step compensation. So the sensitivities do not need to be matched, that's not a problem since they will be adjusted in the filter.


For this budget and use, what do you think of the SEAS units? My choice goes towards those:
CA18RNX H1215
http://www.seas.no/Prestige Basser PDF/CA18RNX-H1215-08.pdf
or the new
ER18RNX H1456
http://www.seas.no/Prestige Basser PDF/ER18RNX-H1456-08.pdf

tweeters one of those
27TDFC H1189
http://www.seas.no/Prestige Diskanter PDF/27TDFC_1189ny06.pdf
or the new (although I'm not found of the grill)
27TDFNC/GW H1462
http://www.seas.no/Prestige Diskanter PDF/27TDFNC-GW-H1462.pdf

Probably crossed between 2 and 3kHz, 2nd order or 2nd/1rd (subtractive?)


The 6.5" have been tested here with good reviews
http://www.zaphaudio.com/6.5test/

The "old" tweeter is shown here
http://www.markk.claub.net/Testing/Tweeter3/seas_comparison.htm




So, what do you guys think about those parts? Are they a good choice for the price or is there anything better I should consider?

Regards
Alex
 
Here's the link to the 27TDFC/G at Madisound incase anyone is interested:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1743&osCsid=478eff18a3329d00826439f435c77265

It was listed in the car audio tweeter section (by mistake). I've ordered 2 to see how they compare and whether they are drop in replacements for the 27TBFC/G.

The main difference is efficiency. the 27TBFC/G is on average 1.5dB more sensitive. minor L-Pad adjustments can be made to the design I am working on such that crossover redesign isn't required.

I'll let you know how I go.

David.
 
Bricolo said:
what do you mean? that active XO makes sense for a 3 way but not for a 2 way?


Hi,

Just it makes more sense with two similar amplifiers per channel to actively
crossover much lower than the typical mid / tweeter frequency of 3Khz.
Which is a 3 way or a relatively non-typical 2-way.
Of course if you have very different amplifiers the above may not be true.

Generally speaking a single good amplifier (with line level BSC and
tonal shaping) and a simple speaker passive c/o will be more
effective than bi-amping with two similar but not so good amplifiers.

:)/sreten.
 
Hi bricolo,

Between the two 18RNX, I would definitely choose the ER, mainly because of its copper sleeve and reduced distortions in the bass/low-mid. To my eyes, the only weakness is the 3rd HD peak near 1.5Khz...you will have to take care on the baffle width and perhaps use a little notch if you go second order x-over as high as 3Khz.
My feeling is that these new SEAS are on particular good value regarding all the issues/parameters.
BTW, if you build a TL, build it preferably with a large and constant cross section area, this 'll give you good and plenty bass and a sense of "spatial impression" very enjoying.
:2c:
 
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