Staffan, did you ever box up yours, or did something new to it from back then you presented the build?
Its still on a breadbord, but now in top of a closit
. I ended up comparing SSHV2 with different filters and some experiments around filaments. AC worked fine for me. Usually does if being careful with referencing and cabling, and sounds good.
Atm 2 different simple EL84 PPs is occupying my desk. Im comparing phasesplitters, concertina and floating paraphrase right now. Ishallah Im gonna document it here somewhere when im done and then maybe box up a 6V6 Q2 style. The Q2s are painted waiting for their guts. And mine
Gonna keep the original setup for starters and just change components to more modern exact ones. GZ34 and 6L6GC I think. Oh no, now Im OT again mods will beat me up.
Best
Staffan
. I ended up comparing SSHV2 with different filters and some experiments around filaments. AC worked fine for me. Usually does if being careful with referencing and cabling, and sounds good.Atm 2 different simple EL84 PPs is occupying my desk. Im comparing phasesplitters, concertina and floating paraphrase right now. Ishallah Im gonna document it here somewhere when im done and then maybe box up a 6V6 Q2 style. The Q2s are painted waiting for their guts. And mine
Gonna keep the original setup for starters and just change components to more modern exact ones. GZ34 and 6L6GC I think. Oh no, now Im OT again
mods will beat me up.Best
Staffan
Buzz: What I ment was something like if you ask Salas or ZM for their opinion in this matter its a bit like asking them about Man U or Liverpool, BMW or Mercedes, AC/DC or Motorhead. Its very dependent on who you are and where you stand.
A good way about PS filter working is to set up your rectified voltage as you like it. Make a firm rail for the ground and parallell that with one for B+ in say 1 mm tinned copper. Make it about 1,5-2 inch or so inbetween and like 3-4 inches long. Break the B+ with the resistor or choke you like (start with resistor) and you have a good setup for testing your components.
Then solder up your first C. Start low, preferably with a bleeder over it and then something higher on the second C. Go for lower quality to higher and lower F to higher and listen for differences. Keep it with same components at first and then start mix small and big. When you reach nirvana (no humm and a soundscape that you like) your done.
Just buying a high farad lytic or motorrun, relying on rumors and opinions, just gonna make you wonder if that was right.
Figuratively you can see a filter like shock absorbers on a car. For every extra R-C you add its like adding a car with shock absorbers upon another car with shock absorbers. It might be a soft trip but the curvehandling might be lousy. The can also work against each other and add bumpyness to a very impleasant experience (oscillation). Very long shock absorbers on an F1 car might not be optimal for the application. Keep it as low as you can in Farad and in filtersteps, listen to the components by adding and substracting, thats my 2 cents tip.
Best
Staffan
A good way about PS filter working is to set up your rectified voltage as you like it. Make a firm rail for the ground and parallell that with one for B+ in say 1 mm tinned copper. Make it about 1,5-2 inch or so inbetween and like 3-4 inches long. Break the B+ with the resistor or choke you like (start with resistor) and you have a good setup for testing your components.
Then solder up your first C. Start low, preferably with a bleeder over it and then something higher on the second C. Go for lower quality to higher and lower F to higher and listen for differences. Keep it with same components at first and then start mix small and big. When you reach nirvana (no humm and a soundscape that you like) your done.
Just buying a high farad lytic or motorrun, relying on rumors and opinions, just gonna make you wonder if that was right.
Figuratively you can see a filter like shock absorbers on a car. For every extra R-C you add its like adding a car with shock absorbers upon another car with shock absorbers. It might be a soft trip but the curvehandling might be lousy. The can also work against each other and add bumpyness to a very impleasant experience (oscillation). Very long shock absorbers on an F1 car might not be optimal for the application. Keep it as low as you can in Farad and in filtersteps, listen to the components by adding and substracting, thats my 2 cents tip.
Best
Staffan
I dont mind be poked fun at. Look at it as part of paying my dues. I ask ZM and Salas for one reason, experience. I seriously doubt hearing major difference. I was just about to place an ordre and thought i could try a BHC like Salas has in original schematic. FYI, I am rebuilding the 6v6 with the option brute force PSU, Maida or SSHV2. In setting up for something like this, it helps to narrow the ranges, if you know what I mean.
I dindnt mean anything like that, just shared my experience which of course doesnt top ride yours. We're all DIYers helping eachother out. And I can bet my ol hat on that you'll hear differences in different B+ filter setups, its very very big differences. Not to deminish ZM or Salas or any experience of course, they are big inspiration for me to.
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Had some more listening at the pre, without cathode caps. Most of the sharp edges of which I reported earlier are gone. As aspected they were a function of the not-so-good big elcos. With regard to the original signal I'm missing some freshness. Might be caused by the load resistors (possibly not bifilar wound) and/or capacitance playing a role and/or my wiring is too sloppy or whatever. WRT dynamics I regretfully came to the opinion that the situation with caps was the more pleasant listening to, on all genres with fast attack music. Less on voices.
It might be Salas, you voiced the pre to a system more adequately playing dynamic content than mine? The meaning of 'lean' to express the reproduction quality of an amplifier goes above my comprehension, I'm afraid. But, altogether, well done sir!
It might be Salas, you voiced the pre to a system more adequately playing dynamic content than mine? The meaning of 'lean' to express the reproduction quality of an amplifier goes above my comprehension, I'm afraid. But, altogether, well done sir!
Been lurking here for a while...I think I will whack up this linestage on a DIY PCB. I have a regulated B+ and heater supply that will work nicely.
Thoughts on the layout? I didnt label anything but it is a pretty simple design. Only thing I am struggling with is the input ground on the "right hand" side.
I would P2P it but my chassis layout sort of demands as low a profile as possible.
EDIT
I plan to use a regulated 12.6V heater supply so 6V6's wired in series. Is this thinking OK? Supply is good for 2A.
Thoughts on the layout? I didnt label anything but it is a pretty simple design. Only thing I am struggling with is the input ground on the "right hand" side.
I would P2P it but my chassis layout sort of demands as low a profile as possible.
EDIT
I plan to use a regulated 12.6V heater supply so 6V6's wired in series. Is this thinking OK? Supply is good for 2A.
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Sure. Use same tube brands preferably. 6V6 is prolly ok but for example 6C33 i had examples where i had to match even filaments if putting them in series ps. who cares about football anyway?
Edit
And I would make a star-grounding b4 putting everything to chassie if I were you, looking at the pic.
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Wot... cpb? jumpyer?
weekend ....you
?
well,
but
is
Dont mention the war. Ya jumpyer. Smaller bypassing the bigger. Quicker then. I hate football.
Being 'simple' for a design and performing well is no mean feat. I don't think a printed circuit board makes an improvement for the circuit as it's built from a handfull of parts, some bulky resistors and electrolytes which you may want to exchange in future.
For the voltage regulator a PCB might save you some space but again it's good practice to have this few parts hard wired to the reg on a sink. When heating 6V6 in series, be sure to use the 'GT' version as they have a fixed warm up period. Older types don't so you'll possibly ruin the heater. From a developper's view not so safe idea in my opinion.
Football? Tennis you mean
I had mine wired up with a temporary PSU from another project I will likely abandon on a test bench. With switching of no signals or speaker hookups all I got was loud hummm. I switched the 6v6 pre output so signal goes to RCA output ground and ground goes to RCA output and hum was much less but no gain and the volume control in the path did nothing.
If I put the RCA cable signal (center pin) on the ground part of the RCA output(outer ring) then I get a clean, quiet signal with no gain but it is very quiet.
So, I am thinking I need to have all my signal wiring as per "normal" signal to signal and ground to ground and switch my speaker outputs on the power amp?