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50% off to take Betsy where she's never been!

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Pjanda,
I'd like to try a pair of plain Betsy's. Planning on using the OB plans as starting point, with better trim. Already have subs using TB 8-740c's. Probably add tweets at later time after breakin and final bsc, etc. Shipping to 35210, please and how do you want payment, PayPal, Credit card, check?
 
Well this is neat. Great opportunity if I can pull it off...

Most of my stuff isn't quite "newbie". I also don't know anything about speakers or eclosures, despite my fascination with amplifiers.

I can't do enclosures, but as for amplifiers I think I've got a really good idea... wait for my PM.

- keantoken
 
Strangest post ever :D

He is responding in part to a PM.

Keantoken, it doesn't have to be simple! You might enjoy learning to use MJK's Mathcad worksheets if the $25 is in your budget. Horn Response is mighty fun as well, and can do some interesting things. Another option would be to work on a balance of amplifier output impedance with an open baffle or open backed cabinet to either extend the response deeper or get by with a smaller baffle than might be typical. Finally, depending on your aesthetic preferences, you might be able to apply some creativity to converting a preexisting structure into a speaker. Just thoughts. . .

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
The whizzer and the dustcap are basically one piece, so it is tough to remove one without the other.

It is possible.

(i was pretty sure i had pics of these fully done up, but i couldn't find it... IIRC i sent them to Paul, maybe he can post?)

dave
 

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I want a simple, versatile design that is compatible with a wide range of drivers, even a versatile crossover for a 2-way setup. Simple is the key. I live in the city and have no garage, therefore my projects must not involve power tools and test insturments. I second the Ikea idea.
 
Was it really that good, Tinitus? :D Well, what can I say...

Well, I'm not sure whether or not a idea is for noobs or not.

My idea is a little more complex than the chip/popcorn amps. Rather, it is a small step up, which is then a better compromise between performance and part count, simplicity and ease of construction. The one who builds it should at least be able to make/buy and solder PCB's, as well as mounting a heatsink with thermal paste. I think is is perfect for someone who is new to electronics but has built a few things but still wants a better amplifier.

- keantoken
 
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Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
Sorry keantoken, I just thought it was funny you started with "I know nothing about speakers..." :p

But as Paul says, what would make your post make more sens is hidden to us, in PM to Paul ;)

Anyway, if your suggestion is to build special amp with some sort of integrated EQ dedicated to Betsy, then you might do better than any of us
But caution, I would not AD lowend EQ to such driver
But might be a good idea if you can take away some of the topend nonlinearity
But thats your show
Good luck :)
 
PM me some contact info for payment.
Assuming/whenever Keen meets the design requirements for the discount.

Have you been in touch with Freddi? I think he managed to blow his second
BetsyK. But then again, he's a madman with a knob. Anything coulda happen...
Wire come loose at the eyelet. He did mention "concert volume levels."

There's some pics on the Karlson forum. Whats that thing in the background
hes A/B-ing it against? A Klipshorn??? Go figure... His comments on BetsyK
were still massively favorable.
 
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I put the lead that fell out back in the eyelet - Qt ~0.5 and Fs around 59 like the other unit so it should play fine - if (?) I got a good solder joint - no new solder seemed to flow & basket a kinda tight space to work - 59Hz fs is a nice spot for first K12's tuning and puts the first two Z peaks ~equal in amplitude - having the 2nd peak higher can be crap - if those darn lead would stay in there I'd have some fun and almost bet it was playing louder than what some FR systems would allow - due to higher tuning and Karlson's whatever it does, the cone excursion was low for what it did. There was a bit of modulation distortion but not much compared to reflex and pipe where the cone is jumpin' - need to use bigger amp:D (maybe for real to get a bit of headroom)
 
Freddi,

Any chance you could post some box plans or a drawing in new thread? I'd split this thread if I could figure out how (I'll look more later). This thread isn't really the right place for the Karson discussion. You must like it loud! Most of us are using 3ish watt amplifiers and getting all the SPL we need. It seems like your Karson is tuned fairly high. Have you thought about high passing them for more dynamic range? If you aren't getting much at 40hz anyway, you may as well not have the excursion.

But, this thread is about the sale! (Which might be about over! I think I've got several takers.)

Paul
 
The Karlson plans are at the Karlson forum. Far as I know,
that was factory K12 based up on the "Karlsonette" plan?
Obviously, BetsyK required an adaptor plate to fit K12 hole.

But I've abused Delta12's in K15 before. I can attest that
this cabinet style loves smaller drivers. Or maybe its just
that most drivers are typically stuffed in undersized boxes?

Its a challenging design, but not as difficult as most horns.
You have to cut two edges at an angle, and two curves.
Three curves if you count the speaker hole as a curve...
 
those Karlson 12 plans were in the enclosures thread - later Karlson used a slit vent and a canted port panel - - I like the old K12/Karlsonette - called that at the time as there were only two models as of fall 1954 - the eight inch model apparently came just a bit later.

re:high passing at 40Hz - I didn't get far enough to find out but the old-school 1960's spy-music stuff by "The Clee-Shay's" didn't present hardly any visible cone movement - I only had the power of a Monarchy SM70.. The lead fell out from mid-range vibrations - or whatever happens when power is applied and work done but very little movement occurs and perhaps a less than perfect solder joint to the eyelet. A large K with 18 will take 300 watt peaks on big drum and move less than an 1/8" total.

Karlsonette drawing by Greg B. from my crude sketch
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/8316/karlsonetteib7.png
 
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