Hi folks,
this is my latest project. A 5” psone with the new light engine.
These are the components:
- 5” psone-panel ( native reso 320x240) I know, it’s low. Its just 4 fun
- 150 W HQI-T naked ( stripped pyrex shell)
- dremeled, dichroic par20 reflector
- ir-filter
- fresnel f 210/210 mm ( approx: 8 ¼ “)
- fs mirror surplus
- lens 9” surplus
- condensor surplus
- ballast, ignitor from ebay
- 2 radial blowers
- 1 axial blower
enclosure:
- ally sheet 1mm
- mill finished ally extrusion profile ( adamhall.com )
- beech planks
- inner dimension: 10.4“ d x 12.4” w x 5.9“ h.
Here are some pics of the results and of the housing. Distance 114” . PJ is 60”.
Larger than 60” will show perturbing screen door effect.
exterior view:
from within:
light engine: this is how I built it
my cam is fuly automatically, so I cannot adjust the exposure time L
I have to paint it black inside. The brighter area is a reflection of the ally inside I have to paint black later on.
The dark spot can be seen on the last pic (lower left corner) results from the heat.
I’ve to improve the air flow coz the controller is tightened on a plywood plank stops the air flow to an “air jam”.
As you can see, the reflector works very efficiently. ;-)
this is my latest project. A 5” psone with the new light engine.
These are the components:
- 5” psone-panel ( native reso 320x240) I know, it’s low. Its just 4 fun
- 150 W HQI-T naked ( stripped pyrex shell)
- dremeled, dichroic par20 reflector
- ir-filter
- fresnel f 210/210 mm ( approx: 8 ¼ “)
- fs mirror surplus
- lens 9” surplus
- condensor surplus
- ballast, ignitor from ebay
- 2 radial blowers
- 1 axial blower
enclosure:
- ally sheet 1mm
- mill finished ally extrusion profile ( adamhall.com )
- beech planks
- inner dimension: 10.4“ d x 12.4” w x 5.9“ h.
Here are some pics of the results and of the housing. Distance 114” . PJ is 60”.
Larger than 60” will show perturbing screen door effect.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
exterior view:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
from within:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
light engine: this is how I built it
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
my cam is fuly automatically, so I cannot adjust the exposure time L
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have to paint it black inside. The brighter area is a reflection of the ally inside I have to paint black later on.
The dark spot can be seen on the last pic (lower left corner) results from the heat.
I’ve to improve the air flow coz the controller is tightened on a plywood plank stops the air flow to an “air jam”.
As you can see, the reflector works very efficiently. ;-)
Hey I_eat_flowers thanks for the encouraging post.
I'm just starting out with a 5" project and have been unsure of the possibilities of it being usable. Once you take into account the flakey way people selling these small lcds have been describing the resolution, none of them seem to be any higher than that. Did you do any kind of mod with the panel? I read somewhere that the resolution wasn't even that high. Of course I could easily be mistaken, I keep telling myself to take notes on this info but have yet to do so.
Anyway, I think that it looks good and is encouraging to those of us trying out a 5" based setup.
I'm just starting out with a 5" project and have been unsure of the possibilities of it being usable. Once you take into account the flakey way people selling these small lcds have been describing the resolution, none of them seem to be any higher than that. Did you do any kind of mod with the panel? I read somewhere that the resolution wasn't even that high. Of course I could easily be mistaken, I keep telling myself to take notes on this info but have yet to do so.
Anyway, I think that it looks good and is encouraging to those of us trying out a 5" based setup.
Heya IEF, great to see you finnaly got the projector happening, great work, looks a top job!!
Ancorp, IEF has a few heat issues with his lcd, when the lcd gets quite warm it changes the contrast of the image. No doubt once cooled he will get his blacks back and the imaging pixels will be brighter. The heat is the obvious one of his contrast issue here, though imo, those lcds arent the best, but very watchable.
Trev
Ancorp, IEF has a few heat issues with his lcd, when the lcd gets quite warm it changes the contrast of the image. No doubt once cooled he will get his blacks back and the imaging pixels will be brighter. The heat is the obvious one of his contrast issue here, though imo, those lcds arent the best, but very watchable.
Trev
@corryn,
I tried to make a closeup. It's impossible with that crappy cam.
@ancorp,
thank you buddy.
for a low reso lcd it's quite watchable at all.
@justme
thx for the nice words.
yeah, the reso is just 320x240. And the only thing I did was a mod improves the brightness.
there are two other mods improving the color saturation, and a "reddish" reducing. but it was imho not necessary.
If I find that pdf on my hdd I'll come up with it. But I have to translate first. It'll take a lil while.
@Trev
yeah, finally I soved the third project. First it was a kind of "reserearch" for me, but after having finished the light box I had the desire to see it work. I couldn't withstand.
So I got more and more knowledge. It's a bit of an obsession. ;-)
And now I've soved the heat issue. I extracted the plank caused a "hot air jam". Now the flow is okay. I've tested it for four hours and the display stays "cool".
But the main reason for building this pj was to find out the light output of the new box and I have to say It was worth it.
The light output is what I've expected thogh with an ellipsoidal dichroic reflector ace's using I'll get the ultimate performance.
I tried to make a closeup. It's impossible with that crappy cam.
@ancorp,
thank you buddy.
for a low reso lcd it's quite watchable at all.
@justme
thx for the nice words.
yeah, the reso is just 320x240. And the only thing I did was a mod improves the brightness.
there are two other mods improving the color saturation, and a "reddish" reducing. but it was imho not necessary.
If I find that pdf on my hdd I'll come up with it. But I have to translate first. It'll take a lil while.
@Trev
yeah, finally I soved the third project. First it was a kind of "reserearch" for me, but after having finished the light box I had the desire to see it work. I couldn't withstand.
So I got more and more knowledge. It's a bit of an obsession. ;-)
And now I've soved the heat issue. I extracted the plank caused a "hot air jam". Now the flow is okay. I've tested it for four hours and the display stays "cool".
But the main reason for building this pj was to find out the light output of the new box and I have to say It was worth it.
The light output is what I've expected thogh with an ellipsoidal dichroic reflector ace's using I'll get the ultimate performance.
G'day IEF nice work again there mate...
Was wondering what the chances would be or if you have tried it already, with that light unit in your other projector mate? Like to see the results with that reflector and the 150watt behind a Lilli LCD if its @ all possible or your opinion on the expected result if this was done. I have heard what Trev has had to say it would be like on a 7 inch but would like to hear your opnion also
Thanks in advance IEF
Was wondering what the chances would be or if you have tried it already, with that light unit in your other projector mate? Like to see the results with that reflector and the 150watt behind a Lilli LCD if its @ all possible or your opinion on the expected result if this was done. I have heard what Trev has had to say it would be like on a 7 inch but would like to hear your opnion also
Thanks in advance IEF
heya hillbilly,
thx for the nice comment buddy.
To be honest, I don't want to rip off my lilliput-pj to build in that light engine.
I think with the setup I made the output has increased around 20 percent maybe coz I've catched the light what otherwise bounces wild.
Using more light would cause merely a worse contrast. Black will turn to gray and white won't be white.
Imho 150 W CDM ( or other ceramic lamps) with a cold elllipsoidal reflector would have the same output as a 400 W soup-laddle-condensor setup.
I don't think, that we cannot compare the lilli-setup (spherical mirror-reflector and HTI 152 W) and the new light engine. The HTI has a short arc gap which generates a higher efficiency as a common hqi or cdm.
A light-meter would be not bad to get clarity.
thx for the nice comment buddy.
To be honest, I don't want to rip off my lilliput-pj to build in that light engine.
I think with the setup I made the output has increased around 20 percent maybe coz I've catched the light what otherwise bounces wild.
Using more light would cause merely a worse contrast. Black will turn to gray and white won't be white.
Imho 150 W CDM ( or other ceramic lamps) with a cold elllipsoidal reflector would have the same output as a 400 W soup-laddle-condensor setup.
I don't think, that we cannot compare the lilli-setup (spherical mirror-reflector and HTI 152 W) and the new light engine. The HTI has a short arc gap which generates a higher efficiency as a common hqi or cdm.
A light-meter would be not bad to get clarity.
alapimba said:hello
can you post pictures on how do you put together the lcd and the fresnels and the controller board? i need ideas to suport the lcd and the control board.
your pj looks nice.. i hope i can do the same
thx
hey alapimba,
here is some kind of a plan I used for my first psone project.
click
here is a pic of the display- and controller fixture.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the fresnels are in front of the panel and tightened by means of two brackets.
hope that helps abit.
and thanks for the nice words.
Its a worse eficentcy thats why short arc lamps dont last aslong, they have a higher power rating per mm and burn out the electrodes. They have a higher intensity but thats it.
If you wer to compare the 2, it wont work out too well for your bulb as the cdm-t puts out more light, your bulb is also placed horizontally. I get what your on about though and realy there is no comparison.
Trev
Thanks for your pictures
tell me one thing.. what is the size of the projected image?
in my setup that it's still on the beginning my image is only 75cm and the wall is at 220cm from the projector.
something like this:
here is some pictures on how i did the tests and results
Thanks once again
tell me one thing.. what is the size of the projected image?
in my setup that it's still on the beginning my image is only 75cm and the wall is at 220cm from the projector.
something like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
here is some pictures on how i did the tests and results
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks once again
ace3000_1 said:
;-) I haven't meant the economically efficiacy bud. I thought more the higher output ( lm/watt). ya know, the uhp-lamps built in commercial pj's have a very short arc and have a higher intensity too. The hti has a life span of 2khrs. That's fair.
ace3000_1 said:
If you wer to compare the 2, it wont work out too well for your bulb as the cdm-t puts out more light, your bulb is also placed horizontally. I get what your on about though and realy there is no comparison.
Trev
yepp, though I never compared to a cdm-t ;-)
alapimba said:
heya bud, looks pretty good.
yeah your image is small, coz u have a projection lens with a long focusing length.
better use one w a shorter fl then ure image will be bigger at a shorter distance.
there is a calculating tool from gunawanw. dunno where to find. by means of that u'll be able to calculate the proper objective fits ur desired image size.
hope that helps abit.
cu.
hello, thanks for your reply
Tell me one thing, in other forum one user told me that i could make the image bigger putting the 2nd fresnel (the one between the lcd and the objective at more distance from the lcd.. like 5cm.. it really happends? i tried but i didn't saw any improvement..
Thanks
Tell me one thing, in other forum one user told me that i could make the image bigger putting the 2nd fresnel (the one between the lcd and the objective at more distance from the lcd.. like 5cm.. it really happends? i tried but i didn't saw any improvement..
Thanks
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