Okay so I currently have two 6.5" tang bands shoved into a small ish denon home theater sub, its about 1 cubic foot ported.
My question, would it be worth it for me to build two of the double folded tapped horns but keep the same plate amp? I don't have to mount the plate amp to the box horn, i can mount it elsewhere and just run wires to both horns.
Currently I have only the one powered sub with the (2) tang bands, but if I built two small horns i could place them in different areas of the living room. I'm thinking one beside each side of the couch.
So would I notice a difference in output (big enough difference to go and spend 20+ hours building two horns) with the same amount of power going into them?
My question, would it be worth it for me to build two of the double folded tapped horns but keep the same plate amp? I don't have to mount the plate amp to the box horn, i can mount it elsewhere and just run wires to both horns.
Currently I have only the one powered sub with the (2) tang bands, but if I built two small horns i could place them in different areas of the living room. I'm thinking one beside each side of the couch.
So would I notice a difference in output (big enough difference to go and spend 20+ hours building two horns) with the same amount of power going into them?
okay well 96 views and no answers...soooo i took the plunge and decided to take a crack at building one.
it's finished, but i have to wait two days for the glue to dry, damn it! i want to hear this thing!!
look at that nice circle my router/jig cut
dont mind the gaps in this pic...this was before i glued anything, i just laid out all the cut pieces in order to see what i was working with...
it's finished, but i have to wait two days for the glue to dry, damn it! i want to hear this thing!!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
look at that nice circle my router/jig cut
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dont mind the gaps in this pic...this was before i glued anything, i just laid out all the cut pieces in order to see what i was working with...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My 2c in the PA world.
"corner loading" a front loaded horn is firing into the corner at about 1 mouth diameter away, so that the corner actually becomes a 'quasi extension' of the horn path.
"corner loading" of a tapped horn, is the horn sitting in the corner firing out. It seems that I get more output and better sound that way.
Try it both ways, and report back.
agree....all of the tapped horns in my home ..3 different styles all the mouths are pointed away from the wall, but in a corner....like you said.
Although i did my first PA tapped horn this weekend and i found that soon as i pointed the mouth at the wall.....in a 100,000 cubic foot room, it made a world of difference between firing directly into the room.
just have to try it and see what you like the best.
Although i did my first PA tapped horn this weekend and i found that soon as i pointed the mouth at the wall.....in a 100,000 cubic foot room, it made a world of difference between firing directly into the room.
just have to try it and see what you like the best.
Looks good! I was very surprised by the quality bass output of the one (out of two) I built.
Words to the wise, from experience that is.
1. Use the iron for sure......it's critical to the design. Mount it as far from the driver as you can.
2. The mouth is a very tight fit to mount the driver....if you're strong by even a MM or two on the front panels it's near impossible to get the driver in.
3. Don't do as I did mistakenly and button up the cab before you've figured out the wiring, I'm now racking my brain to figure out how to make it look good wiring wise.
4. The cabinet does a great job of controlling excursion. With that said, a subsonic filter south of 30hz is imperative.
Words to the wise, from experience that is.
1. Use the iron for sure......it's critical to the design. Mount it as far from the driver as you can.
2. The mouth is a very tight fit to mount the driver....if you're strong by even a MM or two on the front panels it's near impossible to get the driver in.
3. Don't do as I did mistakenly and button up the cab before you've figured out the wiring, I'm now racking my brain to figure out how to make it look good wiring wise.
4. The cabinet does a great job of controlling excursion. With that said, a subsonic filter south of 30hz is imperative.
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Iron? The design calls for a 4,7mh inductor wired in series, it alters the Q of the driver and flattens response.
Me? I'd remove the driver to finish the mouth, and to also put some sort of gasket on the mounting surface. Just make sure you can get it out if needed. One of the front panels on mine was strong by maybe 1.5mm, it was very hard to get the driver in even with that slight variance.
I didn't mess up the second, it's just unfinished due to my many ongoing projects, and less than desirable weather.
Well to paint it, or leave it raw? More power to you either way. I'm going to paint the inside of the mouth and baffle black to make the driver a less noticeable.
i decided to finish the boxes a little bit.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
painted flat black
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