$325 Lab 12 based PA tapped horn ~ 35Hz extension

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loudsubz

Member
Joined 2007
Duratex is the bomb!

When I was doing my BFM cabs I put them in and it turned out mint. I also bought a small bucket and only used 1 coat.

I did it in 3 steps:

1. Use oil based primer to seal the wood and provide a good base boat
2. Use latex flat black for second coat
3. Use Duratex for final coat

I liked using oil based for my first coat as it seems to stick better than latex
 
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djlivex

Member
Joined 2010
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m R g S r

Member
Joined 2011
Those look good! With the kinda purple tint.

Got the second one almost all finished. Getting close to taking more measurements on the pair once they're finished, and I will do so with the big qsc mx2000a

imageaiqa.jpg


Also made a ramp to help roll these in and out of my basement, with steep stairs.
Coated the ramp in duratex of course
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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Shadydave

Member
Joined 2012
Dura-Tex and drywall mud

The thing that I really like about Dura-Tex is that they recommend using regular drywall mud to fill in screw heads and any little imperfection.
I would have not believed it, but the instructions say to NOT use Bondo, water putty, epoxy or other wood fillers.
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The instructions say the Dura-Tex will not stick to these fillers.
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Then sand, of course repeat, and then just paint over the whole thing with Dura-Tex.
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I painted a sub with Dura-Tex, right over sanded drywall mud and it has lasted 9 months now without any cracks at all.
And I really flog that cabinet.
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I just finished another set of cabinets and primed them with "Kilz" before coating with Dura_Tex.
That saves allot of the more expensive Dura-Tex.
I had the paint guys at Lowes put some Black coloring in the Kilz so it covered up with the black Dura-Tex easier.

Dave
 
weltersys

weltersys

Member
Joined 2008
Shadydave said:
The thing that I really like about Dura-Tex is that they recommend using regular drywall mud to fill in screw heads and any little imperfection.
I would have not believed it, but the instructions say to NOT use Bondo, water putty, epoxy or other wood fillers.

The instructions say the Dura-Tex will not stick to these fillers.

I had the paint guys at Lowes put some Black coloring in the Kilz so it covered up with the black Dura-Tex easier.
Click to expand...
Dave,

The instructions just downloaded say use drywall spackle or Bondo for best results, avoid rubbery fillers.

Black Kilz, good tip!

Art
 

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m R g S r

Member
Joined 2011
Here's the super compact midbass I started on. Sims well for what I want. Large peak from 120-200hz then it slowly falls. I'll be using the 2x15" midbass with the pair of PAL12's. midbass/low midrange ran up to 500hz.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Will be loaded with Celestion 15" drivers, and braced well.
Specs are 67L internal volume, (2) 4" ports, tuned to 80Hz.
 
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turbodawg

Member
Joined 2004
m R g S r said:
I also got most of the stuff I need to complete the system.
(4)18 sound 1" HF drivers
Dayton 10" round waveguide
(4) eminence sealed back midranges
(4) celestion 15" for midbass

imagelkrd.jpg


imagewsi.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks sick! Do you have a thread going on the total system?

What are your thoughts about the output of the tops vs. subs, it seems like a single sub (or even two) on each side won't be enough to keep up with the kick/mid/tops, unless I misunderstand the configuration? Building more?
 
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m R g S r

Member
Joined 2011
Well it looks like ill be able to get right around 125db for one PAL12 (down to 36-38Hz or so) and about 130db with a pair.
That's more than many other subs put out. I think it'll be fine for the time being. I can just run the rest of the system not all out. Will have some headroom there.

Besides, with a louder midbass section, it may "hit you in the chest" harder giving the illusion that there is actually more sub bass.

It's nearing completion, hopefully within the next few weeks. It's been an expensive last month or so lol
 
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turbodawg

Member
Joined 2004
m R g S r said:
Well it looks like ill be able to get right around 125db for one PAL12 (down to 36-38Hz or so) and about 130db with a pair.
That's more than many other subs put out. I think it'll be fine for the time being. I can just run the rest of the system not all out. Will have some headroom there.

Besides, with a louder midbass section, it may "hit you in the chest" harder giving the illusion that there is actually more sub bass.

It's nearing completion, hopefully within the next few weeks. It's been an expensive last month or so lol
Click to expand...

IC...your 12's sim in max output similar to my ported 15's (~125db peak), but granted yours are far more sensitive. The 10" peavey tops I have mine paired with outrun the subs by about 30-50%. I was metering 110db constant with 114 db peaks with music in a leaky 600 sqft room a couple weeks ago, at about 70-80% of full output.

I agree the kick bins will help. Also depends on inside vs. outside of course.

I feel like one high and one mid driver would be enough to keep up with a pair of midbass drivers and two subs, each side, but that's just a guess.

Are you doing live sound or pop/edm?
 
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turbodawg

Member
Joined 2004
m R g S r said:
Ohh And I would love 2 more. I just can't afford the space when transporting.
$ wise it's a bargin for the amount of "sub bass" (I say that because this is PA based. It's not actual Home Theater 20hz) you can get from 4 cabinets loaded with $165 drivers and a used qsc mx2000a.
Click to expand...

For most effective use of space, on each side, I would run 1x high, 1x mid, 1x15" kick (sealed), and 2x of your subs. IMHO.


Do you have another thread discussing your system? Not to derail this one...
 
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m R g S r

Member
Joined 2011
Thanks man!
Yeah I know we're all here to help eachother out. Believe me if I had a way to transport them, I'd built a lot more than two of these!

Also I didn't see your other comments before. But I'm building this for my friends who DJ, mostly techno. But I'm going after SQ not just sheer output. Which is also why I feel that for now this will do.
 
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