I'm back...
Hello again, I finally had some time to do some renders of the idea I have for the speakers. Of course it is open to discussion regarding anything that could be bad in the design.
Some things I know that could be better but may leave the way they are because they are not critical for what I understood are: The tweeter distance to the midrange is a little too big I think. Also the speakers are surrounded by the metal design plate that may not be the best in that position but I can try to place the speakers flushed with them.
I also know that the rounded corners are going to be extremely hard to make as in the pictures and I will do my best to make them but in the worst case scenario I will just make them as round as I can.
The woofer box has very close to the 150 liters. The midrange has around 17 liters. Of course I will double check and re-calculate the dimensions before doing anything to make completely sure they are correct, compensating with the inner bracing, speaker area, vents and anything else that protrudes inside.
Any ideas or things that you may not like in the design will also be welcomed because this is still a work in progress.
Thank you in advance...
Leo
Hello again, I finally had some time to do some renders of the idea I have for the speakers. Of course it is open to discussion regarding anything that could be bad in the design.
Some things I know that could be better but may leave the way they are because they are not critical for what I understood are: The tweeter distance to the midrange is a little too big I think. Also the speakers are surrounded by the metal design plate that may not be the best in that position but I can try to place the speakers flushed with them.
I also know that the rounded corners are going to be extremely hard to make as in the pictures and I will do my best to make them but in the worst case scenario I will just make them as round as I can.
The woofer box has very close to the 150 liters. The midrange has around 17 liters. Of course I will double check and re-calculate the dimensions before doing anything to make completely sure they are correct, compensating with the inner bracing, speaker area, vents and anything else that protrudes inside.
Any ideas or things that you may not like in the design will also be welcomed because this is still a work in progress.
Thank you in advance...
Leo
Hi,
I rather like it. My main critics would be that it seems very complex for a DIY Project and may be just too much to to realise. Of course, if you have easy access to all the tools and resources to realise the cabinets as drawn, more power to you.
The only thing I dislike is that snakeneck coming up to the tweeter, creeps me totally out.
Actually, the ideal tweeter distance would be so small, you would have to go coax anyway. So as we are already way off, no worries about being of a little more.
Ciao T
I rather like it. My main critics would be that it seems very complex for a DIY Project and may be just too much to to realise. Of course, if you have easy access to all the tools and resources to realise the cabinets as drawn, more power to you.
The only thing I dislike is that snakeneck coming up to the tweeter, creeps me totally out.
Actually, the ideal tweeter distance would be so small, you would have to go coax anyway. So as we are already way off, no worries about being of a little more.
Ciao T
Thanks for your input Thorsten. I hope I can do it the way it is pictured. I know it is pretty complicated but I have some tools and planning to buy some more since I like to do some wood work in the house and my girlfriend loves that too 
Also my father had a woodworking company many years ago so I learned some things from that.
As for the snakeneck, yes I know it is strange but I think it actually breaks a little the rest of the square design to give it a special touch. Of course this is just aesthetics and it would be very difficult to please everybody unless I do something really simplistic.
I actually tried a square section neck to keep everything square but it didnt look good at all. I will try a couple more iterations to see if I come up with something else interesting.
Leo
Also my father had a woodworking company many years ago so I learned some things from that.As for the snakeneck, yes I know it is strange but I think it actually breaks a little the rest of the square design to give it a special touch. Of course this is just aesthetics and it would be very difficult to please everybody unless I do something really simplistic.
I actually tried a square section neck to keep everything square but it didnt look good at all. I will try a couple more iterations to see if I come up with something else interesting.
Leo
Hi picowallspeaker, I am trying to design a nice 3 way speaker cabinet to accommodate the 3 drivers we have been talking about in the rest of the thread.
The midrange is actually completely separated from the main woofer cabinet. It has some legs right now. I still dont know what kind of legs I will use in the end but it will be separate for sure.
Leo
The midrange is actually completely separated from the main woofer cabinet. It has some legs right now. I still dont know what kind of legs I will use in the end but it will be separate for sure.
Leo
I like it!!!
I might change the tweeter housing and use angular flat sides like the rest of the cabinet. It would sort of match the rest of the design a little better.
The same goes with the base. I started doing something similar to your base and ended up just reversing the truncated pyramid to keep the same style. In your case I might consider just removing that base. I like the way the center is raised up between the ports. Maybe some short stout legs to get it off the floor and inch or so.
Overall, it is a pretty exciting looking design, but it will be difficult to execute. However, if you think you can do it, I'd go for it and give it a try.
If you can make it happen I think you would dazzle everyone that sees it when you tell them that you made it and you should be proud.
I might change the tweeter housing and use angular flat sides like the rest of the cabinet. It would sort of match the rest of the design a little better.
The same goes with the base. I started doing something similar to your base and ended up just reversing the truncated pyramid to keep the same style. In your case I might consider just removing that base. I like the way the center is raised up between the ports. Maybe some short stout legs to get it off the floor and inch or so.
Overall, it is a pretty exciting looking design, but it will be difficult to execute. However, if you think you can do it, I'd go for it and give it a try.
If you can make it happen I think you would dazzle everyone that sees it when you tell them that you made it and you should be proud.
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Thanks Loren
Also I will try some more styles for the base as you said.
Leo
The more I look at it the more I like it. You have a very good eye for product design and a great imagination. Nice work!
Excellent design
Like very much the wood texture (type and direction of grain). Leo, look at this (beautiful) tweeter from Kent's "copper-speaker-cabinet" for "Burning Man's".
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...ers-copper-speaker-cabinet-7.html#post1956786
In your case, what's a tube for, when what you need is a small box or a no-box for a plain tweeter. In this case (tweeter) form doesn't follow function.
The other (inverse) way, is to look at it, from the point of view of a fantasy (like other designs at diyAudio) and make it very Beaux-Arts. (I don't want to confuse you) There are 1000 different designs, but, you let your design and imagination mature, to play it safe.
Google your tweeter for ideas. You may end with a different one (tweeter), or a more versatile panel/driver integration. Here, notice the magnets/center of the cone/CD on the vertical line for closer time/phase alignment. Plus, you have the space in the middle for the tweeter (WTM).
http://ldsg.snippets.org/HORNS/images/systems/041213/041213-stack2.jpg
Like very much the wood texture (type and direction of grain). Leo, look at this (beautiful) tweeter from Kent's "copper-speaker-cabinet" for "Burning Man's".
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...ers-copper-speaker-cabinet-7.html#post1956786
In your case, what's a tube for, when what you need is a small box or a no-box for a plain tweeter. In this case (tweeter) form doesn't follow function.
The other (inverse) way, is to look at it, from the point of view of a fantasy (like other designs at diyAudio) and make it very Beaux-Arts. (I don't want to confuse you) There are 1000 different designs, but, you let your design and imagination mature, to play it safe.
Google your tweeter for ideas. You may end with a different one (tweeter), or a more versatile panel/driver integration. Here, notice the magnets/center of the cone/CD on the vertical line for closer time/phase alignment. Plus, you have the space in the middle for the tweeter (WTM).
http://ldsg.snippets.org/HORNS/images/systems/041213/041213-stack2.jpg
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Inductor, most interesting designs on those pictures. The first one seems to have come from 20,000 leagues under the sea
The tube in my design is just for aesthetics. I know I dont need the box for a tweeter. I will keep playing with different possibilities in that area.
domtw, yes I will post some pictures as soon as I start building it for sure.
Leo
The tube in my design is just for aesthetics. I know I dont need the box for a tweeter. I will keep playing with different possibilities in that area.
domtw, yes I will post some pictures as soon as I start building it for sure.
Leo
Ok in the meantime, a simple question...
Hi everyone, I am still working on some variations for the tweeter section of the cabinets but so far when I show them to my family and friends, the long snakeneck is still winning for a little margin Anyway, you will see them in a couple days.
On another note in the meantime while I finish the renders here, I had a simple question: If you had to choose 2 drivers for a smaller 2 way with a 12" woofer and tweeter and you could not spend more than lets say $100 in the drivers or up to $140 if the difference would be decent from the $100 version, what drivers would you choose?
I have a possibility but there may be better ones: Eminence BETA-12LTA and Fostex FT17H.
Let me know what ideas do you have.
Thanks...
Leo
Hi everyone, I am still working on some variations for the tweeter section of the cabinets but so far when I show them to my family and friends, the long snakeneck is still winning for a little margin
Anyway, you will see them in a couple days.On another note in the meantime while I finish the renders here, I had a simple question: If you had to choose 2 drivers for a smaller 2 way with a 12" woofer and tweeter and you could not spend more than lets say $100 in the drivers or up to $140 if the difference would be decent from the $100 version, what drivers would you choose?
I have a possibility but there may be better ones: Eminence BETA-12LTA and Fostex FT17H.
Let me know what ideas do you have.
Thanks...
Leo
It is impossible to match a standard tweeter with a 12",even with a 10". It 's hard even for a 8" to reach 2 Khz without break-up modes . You'll need a Constant Directivity Horn
or a Waveguide to give acoustic load to the low end of tweeter's emission.
Ps. A little FR Fostex would fit the job
or a Waveguide to give acoustic load to the low end of tweeter's emission.
Ps. A little FR Fostex would fit the job
What do you mean by a FR Fostex?
Also, the ones I gave were just an idea. It can also be the Fostex FT207D or the Fostex FT28D that goes down to 1KHz, of course I have to change the woofer to one that suits the dB of the tweeter. But it has to be doable.
Remember this is a possible future project for a friend that is not looking for the best sounding system, simply something that sounds good.
Thanks.
Leo
Also, the ones I gave were just an idea. It can also be the Fostex FT207D or the Fostex FT28D that goes down to 1KHz, of course I have to change the woofer to one that suits the dB of the tweeter. But it has to be doable.
Remember this is a possible future project for a friend that is not looking for the best sounding system, simply something that sounds good.
Thanks.
Leo
You can go for a tested design.Hi everyone, I am still working on some variations for the tweeter section of the cabinets but so far when I show them to my family and friends, the long snakeneck is still winning for a little margin
On another note in the meantime while I finish the renders here, I had a simple question: If you had to choose 2 drivers for a smaller 2 way with a 12" woofer and tweeter and you could not spend more than lets say $100 in the drivers or up to $140 if the difference would be decent from the $100 version, what drivers would you choose?
I have a possibility but there may be better ones: Eminence BETA-12LTA and Fostex FT17H.
Let me know what ideas do you have.
Thanks...
Leo
I would start a new thread and make it a new development speaker (never tested). To make it the way you said, with a 12" woofer, I would use as main speaker the FaitalPRO 3FE20 and cross it at ~300Hz to the 12" woofer or 10", look at the dispersion at frequency, that you want to.
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Thanks Pico and Inductor. I see how the FR drivers would work better in this case. I have never heard one of those drivers, do they sound good in the higher frequencies? How do they compare with a normal tweeter?
And last question on this subject ( I think How does the Faital Pro compare to lets say a Fostex FE126En 4" ?
Thank you again...
Leo
And last question on this subject ( I think
How does the Faital Pro compare to lets say a Fostex FE126En 4" ?Thank you again...
Leo
I like the look of this design! If you can pull it off it'd be awesome. I agree that the wooden beam base and the tweeter housing are slightly weaker points of the visual design. Inductor made a good point IMO:
Increasing the distance between the woofer and mid just slightly to accommodate a discrete tweeter between them could look fantanstic. The woofer and midrage enclosure shapes are spot on and it doesn't feel like the tweeter needs to be a big visual feature. For the base, some kind of metal columns/spikes/feet could work.
Just ideas anyhow, I'd be really keen to see this design built! Should be very good efficiency
Plus, you have the space in the middle for the tweeter (WTM).
Increasing the distance between the woofer and mid just slightly to accommodate a discrete tweeter between them could look fantanstic. The woofer and midrage enclosure shapes are spot on and it doesn't feel like the tweeter needs to be a big visual feature. For the base, some kind of metal columns/spikes/feet could work.
Just ideas anyhow, I'd be really keen to see this design built! Should be very good efficiency
As others have suggested I would lean toward a full-range to handle mid and high frequencies.
The issue you need to consider is matching the SPL level. Most full range drivers seem to be much lower SPL than 92 dB. This demands a different woofer than the one you listed.
If you cross at or below 600 Hz the off-axis response will probably be of no concerns.
The issue you need to consider is matching the SPL level. Most full range drivers seem to be much lower SPL than 92 dB. This demands a different woofer than the one you listed.
If you cross at or below 600 Hz the off-axis response will probably be of no concerns.
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