OK BYRTT, I've exhausted all possibilities. Did the Box prototype not once but twice. Made one from Styrofoam that I had laying around. Did the EQ process and nothing. I do have a feeling it's the bluetooth frequency reducing the volume or the amp itself. when the amp is turned on it makes a chime and that chime is significantly loud but its only during bluetooth streaming that the volume is reduced. There's no getting it to work. I'll call it a day with this speaker issue since I have a feeling its the amp and it's the only one I have for now. This radio is for our son for lullabies so the volume will do. I do want to get the radio dial light working so that's my next obstacle I'll try to resolve. Thanks a million BYRTT and I'm sure I'll seek your help once again
I just saw this thread and see you are having problems getting decent SPL from the 4FE35? That is one of the best and most sensitive drivers available for $25. They sound great actually. I can only guess that the problem is your amp not being able to drive them. Try putting them in a 0.4x scale mini Karlsonator. They sound excellent and are very loud.
Your welcome javy I'm sorry all the energy it cost you when looking back, okay the positive thing you got some insight on the speaker drivers side.
Regarding errors for your amp maybe see three possible ways to be the error.
First one is amp is defect and needs exchanged.
Second one is power supply to feed amp can't deliver the power needed or you have errors where cable seems to be spliced as an example reversed polarity, see yellow arrow in picture. When looking at website for the amp i can't see data for power supply's watt power or current needed, only the voltage is mention to be 5V. Could you check that polarity +/- and the splice is ok, and that the supply is marked example 5V/1,2A at least and more current is better to get the claimed 6W output (5 x 1,2 = 6W).
Third one is what load specification amp can supply and this either is not mentioned at the website. If for example it's only meant for 8 ohm loads it can be a overload protection that kicks in to protect amp overload, but i think it's rated 4 ohm. Quick test if amp don't like 4 ohm load is to put the two 4FE35 in serial connection which makes the amp see a 8 ohm load. In practice connect pos pole speaker 1 to pos pole at one channel connector at amp, the neg pole speaker 1 connected to pos pole speaker 2 and last the neg pole speaker 2 connected to neg pole at same connector as speaker 1 have pos pole. Now see if the mono signal coming from both speakers get higher output levels.
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Regarding errors for your amp maybe see three possible ways to be the error.
First one is amp is defect and needs exchanged.
Second one is power supply to feed amp can't deliver the power needed or you have errors where cable seems to be spliced as an example reversed polarity, see yellow arrow in picture. When looking at website for the amp i can't see data for power supply's watt power or current needed, only the voltage is mention to be 5V. Could you check that polarity +/- and the splice is ok, and that the supply is marked example 5V/1,2A at least and more current is better to get the claimed 6W output (5 x 1,2 = 6W).
Third one is what load specification amp can supply and this either is not mentioned at the website. If for example it's only meant for 8 ohm loads it can be a overload protection that kicks in to protect amp overload, but i think it's rated 4 ohm. Quick test if amp don't like 4 ohm load is to put the two 4FE35 in serial connection which makes the amp see a 8 ohm load. In practice connect pos pole speaker 1 to pos pole at one channel connector at amp, the neg pole speaker 1 connected to pos pole speaker 2 and last the neg pole speaker 2 connected to neg pole at same connector as speaker 1 have pos pole. Now see if the mono signal coming from both speakers get higher output levels.
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Your welcome javy I'm sorry all the energy it cost you when looking back, okay the positive thing you got some insight on the speaker drivers side.
Regarding errors for your amp maybe see three possible ways to be the error.
First one is amp is defect and needs exchanged.
Second one is power supply to feed amp can't deliver the power needed or you have errors where cable seems to be spliced as an example reversed polarity, see yellow arrow in picture. When looking at website for the amp i can't see data for power supply's watt power or current needed, only the voltage is mention to be 5V. Could you check that polarity +/- and the splice is ok, and that the supply is marked example 5V/1,2A at least and more current is better to get the claimed 6W output (5 x 1,2 = 6W).
Third one is what load specification amp can supply and this either is not mentioned at the website. If for example it's only meant for 8 ohm loads it can be a overload protection that kicks in to protect amp overload, but i think it's rated 4 ohm. Quick test if amp don't like 4 ohm load is to put the two 4FE35 in serial connection which makes the amp see a 8 ohm load. In practice connect pos pole speaker 1 to pos pole at one channel connector at amp, the neg pole speaker 1 connected to pos pole speaker 2 and last the neg pole speaker 2 connected to neg pole at same connector as speaker 1 have pos pole. Now see if the mono signal coming from both speakers get higher output levels.
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Hey BYRTT,
The splice is for a POT Switch. When I tested it I decided to do it without the spliced cable to eliminate any variables like you mentioned, so I did a straight new USB to amp not crossing through a switch. I checked with a voltmeter and exactly 5v is being delivered to the amp. I purchased his adapter and cable. the adapter reads 5v/1a. The speakers because they are 4OHMs based on the engineer will only pull 4.5 watts but when I did some of my own measuring it looks like only 1.3 watts is being driven. I don't know how all this works but thats what the voltmeter is saying.
The amp is rated at 4OHms as I have crossed all my Ts and dotted all my Is with the engineer. I like your in series idea. I'll try that right now, hmmmmmm.
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You mean one of these that you built?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...sonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-16.html#post3722988
I think I'll try that when I get my hands on this amp:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2O20Y...UTF8&colid=ZF0TIU0HMOX3&coliid=I39T44Z9ZJMKPH
What do you have driving yours?
Alright guys, I connected the 4FE35 speaker to a 15w amp I took out a GBoom speaker I have and it sounded amazing. I mean amazing. So, then I connected my amp to the GBoom 10W speaker since it was open and wa wa wa, the volume is low. I mean low. All I can say is that this Amp has gotten the best of me and it's time to build my own.
Thanks for your help guys.
Thanks for your help guys.
I use $13 TPA3116D2 (Ybdz model on Aliexpress Online Shop Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design|Aliexpress Mobile). Great amps for full range drivers. Use 19v laptop brick supply. Another amp that works is the $6 TDA7297 "lunch money amp" it is class AB and is cheap but don't let the low price fool you. In use that with a mini Karlsonator 0.4x scale and Faital Pro 3FE25's right now as the kitchen stereo and it sounds great.
One more thought on your problems. Do you have phase flipped on one driver? That will make speakers cancel each other out and would explain why you say they are not loud.
One more thought on your problems. Do you have phase flipped on one driver? That will make speakers cancel each other out and would explain why you say they are not loud.
Phase flipped? They didn't cancel each other out with the GBoom amp? They rocked. The GBoom amp also pushed my original speakers too. My current amp is just capping it I think. I'm going to take your amp suggestions into serious suggestions. I'm trying to put together a setup now with what I have with bluetooth capabilities. That's why I bought this current amp with bluetooth built in. I can't find anything like it out there that is an amp/bluetooth combo at the 15w+ range unless you build it yourself.
Buy a $15 BT receiver and buy a $6 isolated DC-DC converter for dropping the 12v or whatever into 5v for the BT. I have done this before and you need the isolated converter otherwise you get a nasty groundloop noise from BT onto the amp. The converter is made by Murata. Use the Mutata MEE1s1205sc converter. It works very well and provides all the power that the BT needs (50mA I think). There are other models for different input voltages.
Glad you tried another amp - I wasn't kidding about the 4FE35 being one of the best fullrange drivers out there.
Wait until you try one in a mini Karlsonator - you will be amazed at the sound.
If you look in the class D forum you will see that the TPA3116D2 is probably the current king of efficient great sounding compact and cheap amps. There are a lot of variants and the one I suggested is verified to sound great stock. Can be made better with swapping out the main power caps for Panasonic OSCON's 330uF 25v SEPF. Add $4 for that.
Glad you tried another amp - I wasn't kidding about the 4FE35 being one of the best fullrange drivers out there.
Wait until you try one in a mini Karlsonator - you will be amazed at the sound.
If you look in the class D forum you will see that the TPA3116D2 is probably the current king of efficient great sounding compact and cheap amps. There are a lot of variants and the one I suggested is verified to sound great stock. Can be made better with swapping out the main power caps for Panasonic OSCON's 330uF 25v SEPF. Add $4 for that.
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Buy a $15 BT receiver and buy a $6 isolated DC-DC converter for dropping the 12v or whatever into 5v for the BT. I have done this before and you need the isolated converter otherwise you get a nasty groundloop noise from BT onto the amp. The converter is made by Murata. Use the Mutata MEE1s1205sc converter. It works very well and provides all the power that the BT needs (50mA I think). There are other models for different input voltages.
Glad you tried another amp - I wasn't kidding about the 4FE35 being one of the best fullrange drivers out there.
Wait until you try one in a mini Karlsonator - you will be amazed at the sound.
If you look in the class D forum you will see that the TPA3116D2 is probably the current king of efficient great sounding compact and cheap amps. There are a lot of variants and the one I suggested is verified to sound great stock. Can be made better with swapping out the main power caps for Panasonic OSCON's 330uF 25v SEPF. Add $4 for that.
I'm going to put a little grocery list together, you mind scanning it for me to make sure I'm getting the right stuff. Also, will you be handy if I have any questions on wiring this stuff up. Already looking at the Murata and it looks like something out of War of the Worlds to me but looking at the DATASheet doesnt look that bad.
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XRK971, quick question, the radio now has two speakers, both are 4ohm originally. I think they are 3-4w speakers. Will the TDA7297's 2x15w output channels be too much for the original speakers? Should I look at a 2x3w ? this is just a question that applies to this particular radio so that it maintains that 40s era sound and doesnt imply I'm deviating from the original topic, as that's what the Faital Pros are for for radio # 2 now that we concluded it was the original amp and the solution has been discovered.
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No don't worry about the higher power. In fact, that is about the perfect power level to drive the 4FE35's. You will hear distortion before anything bad happens. The x-damage is like 8mm and you won't hit that in all likelihood with this amp.
One other note, if you intend on using this radio as a radio, that is an AM/FM tuner as source material the TDA7297 is class AB and will have less interference with audio signals.
One other note, if you intend on using this radio as a radio, that is an AM/FM tuner as source material the TDA7297 is class AB and will have less interference with audio signals.
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Buy a $15 BT receiver and buy a $6 isolated DC-DC converter for dropping the 12v or whatever into 5v for the BT. I have done this before and you need the isolated converter otherwise you get a nasty groundloop noise from BT onto the amp. The converter is made by Murata. Use the Mutata MEE1s1205sc converter. It works very well and provides all the power that the BT needs (50mA I think). There are other models for different input voltages.
Glad you tried another amp - I wasn't kidding about the 4FE35 being one of the best fullrange drivers out there.
Wait until you try one in a mini Karlsonator - you will be amazed at the sound.
If you look in the class D forum you will see that the TPA3116D2 is probably the current king of efficient great sounding compact and cheap amps. There are a lot of variants and the one I suggested is verified to sound great stock. Can be made better with swapping out the main power caps for Panasonic OSCON's 330uF 25v SEPF. Add $4 for that.
XRK971 can I use this instead of the murata converter? Only reason I ask is because I have Amazon Prime and shipping + this converter would be cheaper than getting it from Mouser. Only wondering.
Buy a $15 BT receiver and buy a $6 isolated DC-DC converter for dropping the 12v or whatever into 5v for the BT. I have done this before and you need the isolated converter otherwise you get a nasty groundloop noise from BT onto the amp. The converter is made by Murata. Use the Mutata MEE1s1205sc converter. It works very well and provides all the power that the BT needs (50mA I think). There are other models for different input voltages.
Glad you tried another amp - I wasn't kidding about the 4FE35 being one of the best fullrange drivers out there.
Wait until you try one in a mini Karlsonator - you will be amazed at the sound.
If you look in the class D forum you will see that the TPA3116D2 is probably the current king of efficient great sounding compact and cheap amps. There are a lot of variants and the one I suggested is verified to sound great stock. Can be made better with swapping out the main power caps for Panasonic OSCON's 330uF 25v SEPF. Add $4 for that.
XRK971 can I use this instead of the murata converter? Only reason I ask is because I have Amazon Prime and shipping + this converter would be cheaper than getting it from Mouser. Only wondering. Not sure if there's an amp conflict with this converter based on you mentioning before the 50mA variable.
Amazon.com: SMAKN Dc/dc Converter 12v Step Down to 5v/3a Power Supply Module: Electronics
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I don't know but it is so cheap you may as well try it. The main thing to look for is to make sure the ground on the input is not the same as ground on the output. If they are the same the ground loop isolation problem has not been solved. This may be no better than a 12v cigarette adapter that has USB 5v on the other side. My suspicion is that they are not isolated otherwise it would be touted.
Eh what the heck for 5 dollars more I'd rather be safe. I'll get the Murata, sorry for going back and forth.
X, quick question, an ex coworker of mine had a 2x3w PAM8403 Mini Power Amplifier Board laying around and he let me have it. It runs on 5v. I'm assuming I dont need the murata converter for the bluetooth for this guy right since its 5v to 5v.
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