2x100W TPA3116D2 (2 chips, each in PBTL)

cacao ambiance · 2017-10-29 4:03 am

i have a mono 100w version of that board zek. it has a noise floor. could be even worser but it could also be a lot better. its not hifi. more like cheap crap meh-fi. sure boards are a lot lot better.

Sure Electronics' webstore Search results for: 'tpa3116 100w'

zek · 2017-11-27 9:55 pm

zek said:
Did anyone try this board?
NEUE XH M543 high power bord TPA3116D2 audio verstarkermodul Dual channel 2*120 Watt in NEUE XH-M543 high power bord TPA3116D2 audio verstarkermodul Dual channel 2*120 Watt aus Elektronik Aktien auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group

It's a fake, it has only one chip.

DreadPirate · 2017-11-27 11:47 pm

Daijoubu said:
I've narrowed down to Rubycon ZLH and Panasonic FR, 1.488A/17 mOhm and 1.95A/18 mOhm respectively
10k hours rating, bit of overkill but I know I'll never need to replace them ever.

Are they suitable for that application? The panny is 22cents more expensive but with a higher ripple current rating.

Thanks!

I use Rubycon ZLHs exclusively on my Class D amps (sometimes FC if I'm out of ZLH) in values close to the datasheet (in other words, not in large values like 1000uF or 2200uF, but 330uF or 470uF). For the input caps, MKT1822 2.2uF and I find the combination is pleasing to me, though the sound can be described as "sharp," as opposed to "warm" with some sibilance at times. I like the detail that results, very resolving, which to me is the whole reason to go with Class D amps in the first place.

zek · 2018-05-12 3:18 pm

Does anyone have some experience with this board?
2x100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V-24V for Arduino | eBay

Jerms · 2018-05-14 2:53 am

zek said:
Does anyone have some experience with this board?
2x100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V-24V for Arduino | eBay

Yep, lots do. Poultygeist was the first I read of using it, I think. Mine is connected to a Chromecast audio but not currently in use. It sounds good. It won't do 2x100 watts into 8 ohms. It needs a 4 ohm load to approach that. I have read that it isn't really suited for high output use. The solder tracks are thought to be "puny" by some. Used at 16-19V and with normal indoor listening levels it's fine.

zek · 2018-05-14 7:20 pm

@Jerms
Thanks a lot.

bitperfectq · 2019-01-07 7:40 pm

Hi, can anyone recommend a good design dual chip (2X 100W) board with no turn on/ turn off pop?

Preferably sold through eBay or Amazon, I don't mind waiting for shipping or replacing caps, resistors, etc. if necessary.

Think · 2019-01-08 6:40 pm

Jerms said:
.... It won't do 2x100 watts into 8 ohms. It needs a 2 (not 4) ohm load to approach that. I have read that it isn't really suited for high output use. The solder tracks are thought to be "puny" by some. Used at 16-19V and with normal indoor listening levels it's fine.

Put some 105dB/W(very sensitive) 2ohm speakers on them and come back to tell us, it wasn't loud.

You will get about 100W from pbtl tpa3116 at 2ohm, 50w@4ohm, 25W@8ohm with 26V. With 18V you get about half.

The 2 chip 2x100w boards are only louder then the 1 chip boards, when you put a 2ohm load/speakers on them.

CyberPit · 2020-01-16 5:20 pm

JSXINGHE XH-M543 Modification

Hi Guys

I had traced XH-M543 V9 (Single Chip BTL 2ch) board.
I 'm going to modify following pints.

Reduce the gain (Input sens. 20mV --> 1V)
Switching frequency change (400kHz --> 1.2MHz)
Muting Driver Circuit Modification (1Cap to Active Circuit)
MLCC to anther type (Audio Signal Coupling Caps)
Paste Silicone Grease on thermal PAD

Modification information will be described in following posts soon...

pietjep · 2020-01-29 7:35 pm

If I compare the schematic with the PCB I miss the C34 330uF used for muting during power up. I had the previous version with only a resister from mute to ground and that was giving a loud plop during power off. I wonder if this has been improved with this version.

Was the heatsink removable by removing only screws?

CyberPit · 2020-01-29 10:03 pm

Hi pietjep-San,
I guess C34 improves only the power up, So, Now I making modification on this part.

The heatsink can be removed with two screws. It also has Nylon spacer rings between PCB and the heatsink.

CyberPit · 2020-02-02 7:05 pm

HX-M543 Modification

I'm modifying Single TPA3116D2 Board XH-M543.

Modification details will be described in following page...

TPA3116D2 2 channel Amprefire Modification

Current modification plan as follows...

pietjep · 2020-02-05 7:03 pm

Was it original in slave mode? (Gain: 47k and 47K)

CyberPit · 2020-02-06 2:08 pm

pietjep said:
Was it original in slave mode? (Gain: 47k and 47K)

Oh~!, Thank you for your advice.
It was just Copy, Paste and My mistake ....

Updated!

pietjep · 2020-02-07 7:23 pm

pietjep said:
If I compare the schematic with the PCB I miss the C34 330uF used for muting during power up. I had the previous version with only a resister from mute to ground and that was giving a loud plop during power off. I wonder if this has been improved with this version.

Was the heatsink removable by removing only screws?

I have found C34! Its one of the 3 capacitors near the connector for the power.

If I look to the PCB, it looks as if R21 was not between R5 and C34, but between R5 and the Mute pin (pin 12 of the TPA3118) It looks as if R21 is used to limit the current to the mute pin.

And are you sure R1 (near the power LED) and R20 is connected to VCC? Because on the PCB it goes down with a via, just before the big VCC track. Wasn't it connected to C34?

CyberPit · 2020-02-08 4:24 am

pietjep said:
I have found C34! Its one of the 3 capacitors near the connector for the power.

If I look to the PCB, it looks as if R21 was not between R5 and C34, but between R5 and the Mute pin (pin 12 of the TPA3118) It looks as if R21 is used to limit the current to the mute pin.

And are you sure R1 (near the power LED) and R20 is connected to VCC? Because on the PCB it goes down with a via, just before the big VCC track. Wasn't it connected to C34?

I made a X-Ray Like View. It shows R21 is connected in series to the MUTE pin. R20 and R1 are tied to VCC..(May be I need some fix on my schematic ...)

Brianbeyyoung · 2020-02-10 9:51 pm

Can someone tell me what kind of connection the input is (white 3-pin connector). I have the same on another but don't know what it is.

CyberPit · 2020-02-12 1:14 pm

Brianbeyyoung said:
Can someone tell me what kind of connection the input is (white 3-pin connector). I have the same on another but don't know what it is.

I guess it's a JST's "XH" type connector or it's compatible.

farhad · 2020-05-07 5:40 pm

I have bought a m190 amplifier module with two chips. It works flawlessly however it suffers from pop at turning off. No hiss, no noise nothing al all. I am using a 12V 5A switching power supply. The only problem that is bothering is, as I mentioned, a very subtle pop exactly when I turn the amplifier off. I have spent a lot of time reading your posts but could not find a solution. Could you please help me find a solution? Thanks in advance. Image is taken from Amazon but it is exactly the module that I have.

Daijoubu · 2020-05-07 7:53 pm

I googled and found this, basically a simple circuit that mutes the amp

Final Solution for anti-pop on Sure TPA3116

TPA3132D2 - on-delay and emergency shut-down (anti-pop) - also for TPA3116 / TPA3118 - #360customs

2x100W TPA3116D2 (2 chips, each in PBTL)

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