2way with CA18RNX or ER18RNX

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For the problem with floorstanding cabiner, somebody proposes to me to reduces the width to compensate the height... Is it a good idea ?

The original cabinet width is 9", which is already relatively narrow for a 7" driver. Assuming you use a 1/2" roundover on side edges, You can reduce it to 8". But a 1" difference in width on a tall baffle mainly has an effect on responses above 1 kHz, not much on baffle step.
 
Jay_WJ said:


The original cabinet width is 9", which is already relatively narrow for a 7" driver. Assuming you use a 1/2" roundover on side edges, You can reduce it to 8". But a 1" difference in width on a tall baffle mainly has an effect on responses above 1 kHz, not much on baffle step.
My point of view is that if reducing the width doesn't precisely compensate the BS in its both "frequencies place" and level, I see no reason it doesn't really help. All is a mater of what does the speaker acousticaly "undergo" as amount of diffracted frequencies.
Assume a given speaker; an increased baffled version will shift BS at lower fr, a lowered baffled version will shift BS at higher fr. The BS spl loss will remain the same.;)
 
Okay. Below are simulation results of the baffle step effects of different baffle sizes. BDS results are very accurate particularly for woofer simulations. As you can see, if we take into account a slight hump at 900 Hz on the original MD14 cab's baffle step, a relative difference in baffle step effect below 1 kHz between standmounting and floorstanding cabs is about 1.5 dB. This must be audible especially if the crossover has full BSC. Also, as shown in the sim, a 1" difference in width of a tall baffle has a minimal effect. The relative difference in baffle step compared to the MD14 response still remains about 1.5 dB.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
OK Kim,

The 900hz hump and the related 1800hz dip are directly due to the sizes of the baffle surrounding the woofer.
In your BS sim is the woofer placed as in the intended hole of the MD14 cab?
What would be the effect if you place the woofer close to the top of the baffle on the 8" width floorstanded version?

Thank you.;)
 
Hello

Jay, thanks a lot for this simulation

So, the difference between 8" and 9" width is low ! lowest rather than the difference between floorstanding and MD14 enclosure...

Finally, what is the aim of BSC crossover design by John if I can build a different enclosure (less width) without (nearly) difference ?

Lastly, my cabinet will have 32" height, and 2" for spikes, not more !

Jay, I'm interested by your xover, but only if I can have it with 1750hz cut off point...

bye !
 
crazyhub said:
In your BS sim is the woofer placed as in the intended hole of the MD14 cab?
What would be the effect if you place the woofer close to the top of the baffle on the 8" width floorstanded version?

Thank you.;)

Yes, the woofer position is the same as used in the MD14 pre-cut baffle.

Moving the woofer a little upward does not have a notable effect below 1 kHz.
 
kaiser38 said:
Finally, what is the aim of BSC crossover design by John if I can build a different enclosure (less width) without (nearly) difference ?

Lastly, my cabinet will have 32" height, and 2" for spikes, not more !

Jay, I'm interested by your xover, but only if I can have it with 1750hz cut off point...

bye !

The purpose of reduced BSC version is different. Note that the reduced BSC amount is greater than 1.5 dB.

I don't understand why you prefer a 1.75 kHz xover point. Using a 1.55 kHz xover point with the 27TDFC (or 27TBFC/G) tweeter helps reduce the system's harmonic distortions in the 1 k to 1.5 kHz range. If you're concerned about the tweeter's power handling issue, you may want to read my blog entries about this issue (Dec 10 and 11th):

http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/jays_blog.htm
 
kaiser38 said:
Hello

Jay, I'm interested by your xover, but only if I can have it with 1750hz cut off point...

bye !

Hi,

A 13% difference, about a tone (e.g. C to D), two frets on a guitar,
and the white keys on a piano split by a black key is hardly worth
getting too precious about.

FWIW one is G6 and the other A6 :

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


:)/sreten.
 
Andy Graddon said:
I have nearly finalised a speaker using the ER18 and 27TDFC

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/Jarrah_stand.jpg

It uses an AR series type of crossover (a different x-o again), which works beautifully.

Hi Andy,

Where do you buy your SEAS drivers? I'm having such a hard time getting Aranmar to quote for shipping to WA I'm considering Madisound as an alternative (I'm building Zaph's Waveguide TMM's).

I always try to support local businesses, but some don't help themselves!

Cheers

Stuey
 
Stuey said:


Hi Andy,

Where do you buy your SEAS drivers? I'm having such a hard time getting Aranmar to quote for shipping to WA I'm considering Madisound as an alternative (I'm building Zaph's Waveguide TMM's).

I always try to support local businesses, but some don't help themselves!

Cheers

Stuey

I got them from Madisound.

You will probably find they end up cheaper that way even after freight !!! If you can ever contact Aranmar. :cannotbe:

There was a rumour a few months ago of someone else taking over the Seas distribution (over your side of the island iirc), but I have heard nothing since.
 
Hello,

There is very difficult to find the good components for the Cross over !

I found 0.15mH and 3.30mH inductors with approximatively the same resistance.

The only brand who sell 12uf capacitor here, is Monacor. There are available in my shop... I'm lucky...

Lastly, impossible to find the resistors 3.5ohm and 4ohm.
Could I take 3.9ohm, and 2 resistors 6.8 ohm (to have 3.4ohm) ?

bye
 
Inductors work like resistors in a circuit:
Series - L(t) = L(1) + L(2) + L(3) + ...
Parallel 1/L(t) = 1/L(1) + 1/L(2) + 1/L(3) + ...

Capacitors are the opposite (ie. parallel adds and series is the reciprocal).

Keep inductors as far away as possible from eachother and preferably at right angles (in both vertical and horizontal planes). Issue with series inductors in series with a driver is increasing DC resistance and therefore lowering efficiency.

As far as component values, most components are usually within a 5% - 10% tolerance anyway, so keep within +/-5% of the value specified and that should be good enough.

Cheers,
David.
 
Your room is not that large. With speakers 1.5 feet away from the back wall, you will need slightly reduced BSC on your floorstanding design. Note that commercial speakers almost always use much less than full BSC, if that's what you've been accustomed to.

If you prefer a higher xover frequency of Zaph's crossover---though I don't know why you do---, here's a simple solution:

1. Use a 3.0 mH inductor for L7 in Zaph's crossover (resistance between 0.15 to 0.2 ohm).
2. Adjust the tweeter's output level to your taste. To do this, try values from 3.4 to 4.1 ohms for R0.

SR71-crossover.gif


You can always double up a resistor for R0. For example, two 6.8 ohms in parallel (3.4 ohms), two 7.5 ohms (3.75 ohms), or two 8.2 ohms (4.1 ohms).

Using 3.4 ohms for R5 is perfectly fine.
 
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