For your consideration
here's the 1st layer Anatomy of Switching Power Supplies | Hardware Secrets
here's the 1st layer Anatomy of Switching Power Supplies | Hardware Secrets
15A*12V = 180W close to your needs 250W~ Big amps/watts "15 amps at 12v DC". ~
more modern ATX specs are around 20A at the +12V for a 350W supply
Thanks for the link!
I've gotten the top off of this PC PSU. It's got 3 little transformers, a couple of sets of 3 transistors (about 20 caps and 30 resistors, some coils and some diodes and some things I don't recognize), and a couple of little ICs. It looks like a couple of 470 uF output caps, and leaking onto the board.
All of this power from such a tiny little unit. Have you ever tried using one of these to power your audio gear? Will this thing unleash the beast?
I've gotten the top off of this PC PSU. It's got 3 little transformers, a couple of sets of 3 transistors (about 20 caps and 30 resistors, some coils and some diodes and some things I don't recognize), and a couple of little ICs. It looks like a couple of 470 uF output caps, and leaking onto the board.
All of this power from such a tiny little unit. Have you ever tried using one of these to power your audio gear? Will this thing unleash the beast?
All of this power from such a tiny little unit. Have you ever tried using one of these to power your audio gear?
No, but I have plans to use one to convert a mobile Ham HF transmitter rig for a base station +13V at 30A.
It is a 400 watt supply. For DC output, it reads: +3.3v - 30a, +5v - 28a, +12v1 - 14a, +12v2 - 15a, -12v - 1a, +5v - 2.5a.
The MAX for the first two (above) is 130 watts.
12v * 29a = 348 watts. (MAx for 2nd two)
12 watts - MAX for 5th one
12.5 watts - MAX for 6th.
It would be nice to have a schematic for this.
The MAX for the first two (above) is 130 watts.
12v * 29a = 348 watts. (MAx for 2nd two)
12 watts - MAX for 5th one
12.5 watts - MAX for 6th.
It would be nice to have a schematic for this.
dual 12V outputs are almost always derived from one secondary winding. It's mostly due to current rating of the output cable wires and molex pins , so they have to split it up.
For basic understanding of the thing, The schematic is not going to be radically different than what is in the guide link above, unless it has PFC.
For basic understanding of the thing, The schematic is not going to be radically different than what is in the guide link above, unless it has PFC.
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I'll go over that. Thanks.
I'd like to ask just a general question... If this $25 supply does all of this, what is gained from the larger supplies of (so many) audio amplifiers? Actually, my 24v/65watt wall wart is doing well. Have you ever heard nice (manufactured) audio gear that had ps's ~like~ this?
One other question would be, would you say SMPS's the only type I need to be picking from for this application?
Cheers,
Mark
I'd like to ask just a general question... If this $25 supply does all of this, what is gained from the larger supplies of (so many) audio amplifiers? Actually, my 24v/65watt wall wart is doing well. Have you ever heard nice (manufactured) audio gear that had ps's ~like~ this?
One other question would be, would you say SMPS's the only type I need to be picking from for this application?
Cheers,
Mark
Depends I don't know your requirements other than 250W. Most linear amps for HiFi have been reluctant to use them for noise issues. Some PA gear does use them AFAIK. But still they are cheaper than loads of iron and copper but not as cheap as PCs due to standardized specs and economies of scale including competition among part vendors with the lowest margins imaginable.
As a radio guy I'm sensitive to the noise pollution of all these power switching things taking over, some of the worse offenders are class D audio gear which is set to take over linear AV receivers and car audio.
As a radio guy I'm sensitive to the noise pollution of all these power switching things taking over, some of the worse offenders are class D audio gear which is set to take over linear AV receivers and car audio.
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standard regulated output voltages 24 or 48 V DC on some user adjustable +/- 20% http://www.meanwell.com/webnet/search/seriessearch.html
this series includes 24 27 36 48 http://www.meanwell.com/search/se-200/default.htm
this series includes 24 27 36 48 http://www.meanwell.com/search/se-200/default.htm
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Their documentation has various voltages. I see prices for SE-200... ($48)
SE-200-27 [Mean Well SE-200-27]
SD-200 ($112)
SD-200B-12, Mean Well SD-200B-12
What do you recommend to get the DC to start with?
SE-200-27 [Mean Well SE-200-27]
SD-200 ($112)
SD-200B-12, Mean Well SD-200B-12
What do you recommend to get the DC to start with?
This one has a fan and is rated at 8,4 Amps , then you could adjust the output upwards to 27 Volts
giving 230 Watts. I'd offer him his asking price minus $10.
NEW MEAN WELL SP-200-24 POWER SUPPLY DC OUTPUT 24V 8.4A - eBay (item 110661369149 end time Apr-13-11 07:20:57 PDT)
giving 230 Watts. I'd offer him his asking price minus $10.
NEW MEAN WELL SP-200-24 POWER SUPPLY DC OUTPUT 24V 8.4A - eBay (item 110661369149 end time Apr-13-11 07:20:57 PDT)
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Thanks - that's the one... SP-200. Pretty neat!
and another Mean Well SP-200-27 AC/DC Power Supply 200W 27VDC 7.5A - eBay (item 130494860847 end time Apr-05-11 23:54:41 PDT)
asking 34 +10 shipping ask him about factory warranty then low ball em
asking 34 +10 shipping ask him about factory warranty then low ball em
asking 34 +10 shipping ask him about factory warranty then low ball em
He doesn't see me coming.
Looks like a pretty good deal. They also have SP-240 models (240 watts).
I've got my antek hooked up and working. The RF noise (from my monitor) via the wall wart supply is completely gone. I've got a 2"x6" board, bolted the transformer to the middle, tossed the steel case, attached the board by heat sink to one end, and fuse, switch, inlet on the other end. It seems clear by listening that it has more power (than the 65-watt wall wart).
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