I wouldn't and I can't understand why anyone would bother.
The FR125S is able to play to 20kHz -3db.
If someone really feels it's necessary to have a tweeter just buy the WR125S. It would be a whole lot easier to blend a tweeter with that driver.
Adding a tweeter to the FR would do more harm than good.
The FR125S is able to play to 20kHz -3db.
If someone really feels it's necessary to have a tweeter just buy the WR125S. It would be a whole lot easier to blend a tweeter with that driver.
Adding a tweeter to the FR would do more harm than good.
Timn8ter said:
I have not seen measurements for either of those drivers but I would assume even though the FR might go to 20KHz on axis, it will fall sharply off-axis probably around 8KHz - I mean, it is a 4.5" driver! But, since it does have an extended response it would be a good candidate for a 1st order xover.
The OP is going to be using these as PC speakers so off-axis response is not likely to be an issue.
That is exactly my point. The WR125S has a natural HF roll-off beginning around 12kHz and is less expensive than the FR125S. Why pay for the HF extension of the FR if you don't need it?
(btw,I've built several different designs based on both drivers including a WR125S/FT207D with 1st order XO which was reviewed here)
http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue20/alegrialing.htm
That is exactly my point. The WR125S has a natural HF roll-off beginning around 12kHz and is less expensive than the FR125S. Why pay for the HF extension of the FR if you don't need it?
(btw,I've built several different designs based on both drivers including a WR125S/FT207D with 1st order XO which was reviewed here)
http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue20/alegrialing.htm
samsagaz said:
Yes and getting a better speaker in return. With a first order xover and the tweeter being placed touching directly over the woofer I doubt you would hear it not being a point source.
Maybe I am odd, but I still like to have a good power response for my PC speakers, kitchen speakers, bedroom speakers or whatever they are. I have some based on Tangband W871 and even rocking side to side, if I am close to them I can hear the treble response changing. A change of 15 degrees is pretty obvious, and they are only 3" not 4.5". But I can hear perfectly well up to 20KHz so maybe if you can only hear up to 17KHz anyway it wont matter to you.
i received the speakers and build the boxes, but really dont like too much how they sounds 
i really wanna die, i really DONT LIKE HOW THEY SOUND
i spend the money and time (4 days building the boxes) and dont like the sound, i think that need some kind of tweeter and the efficience is really low.
i really wanna die, i really DONT LIKE HOW THEY SOUND
i spend the money and time (4 days building the boxes) and dont like the sound, i think that need some kind of tweeter and the efficience is really low.
Lets see if we can tweak them towards more acceptable. They do need some 100+ hrs on them, just to make sure they have loosened up.
What don't you like about them?
Amplifier (you probably already told us)?
The cabinet is the slotted version of the CSS/Adire recommended 7 litre reflex.
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/FR125S-7L-slotPortBR.pdf
I wouldn't shy away from trying a little damping in the port.
dave
What don't you like about them?
Amplifier (you probably already told us)?
The cabinet is the slotted version of the CSS/Adire recommended 7 litre reflex.
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/FR125S-7L-slotPortBR.pdf
I wouldn't shy away from trying a little damping in the port.
dave
samsagaz said:
Higher levels are better....
That could be good ears and the FRs just falling off to fast, or it could be you just need to adjust to having been exposed to too many metal dome tweeters.
Certainly most FRs fall off on the top more than a tweeter would. There might well be a fairly easy fix for that, as it is amazing how even a little bit of modest help can add to the sparkle at the top. Do you have a source for small poly capacitors?
dave
samsagaz said:well, i can find some small caps, wich specs?
and how i connect it?
If you can get some caps, i can send you some little tweeters that might do the job (i'll just send them)... you will need a 1 uF cap + a half-dozen 0.1 uF caps. Once you figure the optimum value for your ear then you can get a single cap for each speaker.
dave
samsagaz said:received the tweeters, you are the best, i received it without cost
Please, can you tellme what capacitor material and how to connect it to the Fr-125s?
You'll have to play to get the right blend. A 1st guess would be that you will end up with ~1.8 uF in series with the cap. The best way to do it is to start with 1 uF and add increments of 0.1 uF until you start getting too much tweeter & then back it off a notch or 1. Once an ideal value (for you) is attained you can shop for a really good cap of appropriate value (or not). Don't use more than 3.3 uF or you risk letting the smoke out.
dave
PS: Steve at ApexJr deserves some thanx to, as he has sent me quite a few of these tweeters gratis to seed to the community.
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