Time to rebuild the stereo subwoofers.
Two simple 150 litre sealed boxes. In one I'll use a Cerwin Vega Vega15-4 because I have it but I'm going to need something in the other box of similar specification
Size is set by WAF and the secondary function is as stands for the tops
As yet I don't have an amplifier of suitable high power but by the time the boxes are built I should have
There doesn't seem to be mucxh around in Australia at the moment and I don't really want to spend $800- on a driver but I can't see any currently available $200- woofer matching CV
It seems that I have a choice between the SBA 42FHCL or one of three Dayton subwoofers and I can't seem to be able to choose.
DSP would be handled by the Behringer if needed as I do want some SPL at or around 16Hz although Max SPL I don't need too much really, 95 to 105 will match the tops ability. Help and opinions and any cheaper alternatives. All the other 15s in the shed are midrange drivers
Two simple 150 litre sealed boxes. In one I'll use a Cerwin Vega Vega15-4 because I have it but I'm going to need something in the other box of similar specification
Size is set by WAF and the secondary function is as stands for the tops
As yet I don't have an amplifier of suitable high power but by the time the boxes are built I should have
There doesn't seem to be mucxh around in Australia at the moment and I don't really want to spend $800- on a driver but I can't see any currently available $200- woofer matching CV
It seems that I have a choice between the SBA 42FHCL or one of three Dayton subwoofers and I can't seem to be able to choose.
DSP would be handled by the Behringer if needed as I do want some SPL at or around 16Hz although Max SPL I don't need too much really, 95 to 105 will match the tops ability. Help and opinions and any cheaper alternatives. All the other 15s in the shed are midrange drivers
As a previous champion of 15" drivers, I will say that right now the most cost effective 15" is probably an 18".
With the current inflation rates what they are, quite a few of the 18" available are cheaper per displacement.
You might even get lucky and score a nice single 21" cheaper than two comparable xmax 15".
With the current inflation rates what they are, quite a few of the 18" available are cheaper per displacement.
You might even get lucky and score a nice single 21" cheaper than two comparable xmax 15".
WAF says a definite "NO" to any 18" in the loungeroom. Any affordable 18" in a 150litre box would also [ maybe] be too much one note bass and maybe not get any usable output at 16Hz
Picture of the current 18" bass box to show why, it needed 600litres to sound good. Australian prices are pretty high for what you get
Picture of the current 18" bass box to show why, it needed 600litres to sound good. Australian prices are pretty high for what you get
Attachments
I completely understand about the WAF thing, that alone is reason enough.
As to the other arguments listed, thought you said sealed boxes?
That a 18" will result in more "one note bass" than a 15" in this particular case seems very unlikely to me.
For what you are describing you want these things: Displacement and displacement.
That is just for the sake of argument though, because WAF trumps the whole discussion.
As to the other arguments listed, thought you said sealed boxes?
Please forgive me for asking, how are you going to achieve "one note bass" by using 18"s instead of 15"s in sealed boxes? Both will involve a fair bit of EQ. At the volume and frequency you set as goal of design I think you'd want a very high xmax 15" which will inarguably involve a heavy cone and plenty of flapping about with a respectable amount of inertia (expensive!). Not a huge difference but a bigger displacement driver that requires slightly less flapping about will in most cases have at the very least a comparable amount of mass to a higher xmax 15".
That a 18" will result in more "one note bass" than a 15" in this particular case seems very unlikely to me.
For what you are describing you want these things: Displacement and displacement.
That is just for the sake of argument though, because WAF trumps the whole discussion.
I say that because of the quality of the "Affordable" 18" drivers in such small sealed boxes leading to a really high Qb and the resulting peak.
I tried that particular 18" in a 150 litre box and it was simply horrible and no amount of EQ seemed to assist, it was however cheap
A 15" in a 150 litre box seems to me a reasonable compromise up from the 12" currently in use in that size box.
WAF said the the Kicker to the RHS in the black 220l box was "Too big and ugly" or I'd be re-using that despite its limited power handling with only 8mm relatively distortion free excursion
So WAF rules
The current subs are CV Vega124s which are OK but I can't seem to get them EQ'd to where I want them, although that may be operator error too with the DEQX, I like organ music and also "Bass&Drums"
Said No to the use of drivers in the roof cavity also which was another idea I had to use up a half dozen semi decent 12"
I tried that particular 18" in a 150 litre box and it was simply horrible and no amount of EQ seemed to assist, it was however cheap
A 15" in a 150 litre box seems to me a reasonable compromise up from the 12" currently in use in that size box.
WAF said the the Kicker to the RHS in the black 220l box was "Too big and ugly" or I'd be re-using that despite its limited power handling with only 8mm relatively distortion free excursion
So WAF rules
The current subs are CV Vega124s which are OK but I can't seem to get them EQ'd to where I want them, although that may be operator error too with the DEQX, I like organ music and also "Bass&Drums"
Said No to the use of drivers in the roof cavity also which was another idea I had to use up a half dozen semi decent 12"
G’day!
I had a similar problem- I needed to fill a column/speaker stand no wider than 35cm for WAF. By the time I worked out the cabinet height to ensure the tweeter was at ear level, and, and the maximum depth to match my TV cabinet, I had a net volume of 100L to play with.
Then I went and looked at an app called SpeakerboxLite. There’s a free PC based version that is not as intuitive, but works all the same.
You plug in your box volume, box type eg. Ported or sealed etc, desired F3, and then select from your desired driver size eg. 15” and the program will spot out a dozen or so close matches.
It’s like doing speaker cabinets with TS parameters in reverse- it choose the drivers based on your cabinet requirements.
You can even shortlist manufacturers so you don’t get recommendations from drivers that cost more to ship than to buy on this island continent!
Check it out!
Eg.
I had a similar problem- I needed to fill a column/speaker stand no wider than 35cm for WAF. By the time I worked out the cabinet height to ensure the tweeter was at ear level, and, and the maximum depth to match my TV cabinet, I had a net volume of 100L to play with.
Then I went and looked at an app called SpeakerboxLite. There’s a free PC based version that is not as intuitive, but works all the same.
You plug in your box volume, box type eg. Ported or sealed etc, desired F3, and then select from your desired driver size eg. 15” and the program will spot out a dozen or so close matches.
It’s like doing speaker cabinets with TS parameters in reverse- it choose the drivers based on your cabinet requirements.
You can even shortlist manufacturers so you don’t get recommendations from drivers that cost more to ship than to buy on this island continent!
Check it out!
Eg.
Last edited:
Not a direct answer, but FWIW the WAF can in some cases be due to seeing big cones. In the past I went with slot-loaded and later band-pass designs that hid the driver behind a small port. A cushion on top made them items of furniture; no doubt they could look like small cupboards or something instead.
In the end I also moved to more smaller distributed subs. Crossed over low enough that they didn't need to be put by the main speakers, and so not staring one in the face.
Not what you were asking, but possibly useful to consider in the bundle of compromises needed here. You can get a massive amount of sub without 18" drivers staring at the wife.
In the end I also moved to more smaller distributed subs. Crossed over low enough that they didn't need to be put by the main speakers, and so not staring one in the face.
Not what you were asking, but possibly useful to consider in the bundle of compromises needed here. You can get a massive amount of sub without 18" drivers staring at the wife.
With 16Hz being a goal, how about considering car audio drivers ? They usually offer decent xmax and are less expensive than hifi stuff.
I reckon 4x 15's push push with a linkwitz transform would get close to your 105dB goal.
Over here I'd consider something like these Rockford Fosgates
Rob.
I reckon 4x 15's push push with a linkwitz transform would get close to your 105dB goal.
Over here I'd consider something like these Rockford Fosgates
Rob.
Indeed.
Mine helped me put these out for celebrating the national day yesterday, proudly making movies sending them to friends on the so called "social" media.
Getting rid of these soon, got some 18" to replace them, the difficulty seems to be sourcing reasonably priced building materials if you are lucky enough to find any at all inflation rates on plywood is through the roof because of ahem global issues.
Might end up with OSB and just prettify it.
SpeakerLite is just software, so it's a start when you're stuck for options and need to get a shortlist.
Like AI, it's not real smart. Needs to be checked, or have oversight, by a real human.
I'm with Harry72- I'd take RSS390HF over the Ultimax15, for clean bass in a sealed box, particularly if you're wanting to read to mid hundreds Hz in a 3-way.
Like AI, it's not real smart. Needs to be checked, or have oversight, by a real human.
I'm with Harry72- I'd take RSS390HF over the Ultimax15, for clean bass in a sealed box, particularly if you're wanting to read to mid hundreds Hz in a 3-way.
I might just do this another way.
I just listed the Old School CV and if it sells I'll save money and buy a pair of the SBAudience OB 15 and just use the amp I have.
I won't get 16Hz but using DSP I should be able to flatten it a bit and get enough at 30
Modelling says that with 150 Watts I can get 105 maybe 107dB and there will be the pair of them
I just listed the Old School CV and if it sells I'll save money and buy a pair of the SBAudience OB 15 and just use the amp I have.
I won't get 16Hz but using DSP I should be able to flatten it a bit and get enough at 30
Modelling says that with 150 Watts I can get 105 maybe 107dB and there will be the pair of them