yes and in extreme one i think the current record is 177.8 db, now that is also quite an accomlishment as well. to that with one speaker.
higher efficiency speakers are good to a point, to extreme spl like i stated about you need lots and lots of watts, most high efficiency speakers cant handle that much power.
higher efficiency speakers are good to a point, to extreme spl like i stated about you need lots and lots of watts, most high efficiency speakers cant handle that much power.
all you need is lots and lots of batteries and in extreme compitition, and yes most the batteries are sometimes connected with solid steel. and for lower class lot and lots of runs of 0 gauge wire from the 2-300 amp+ alternators under the hood.
the more batteries the more stored power you have and the less your volts drop.
oh and i dont know if anyone answered the actual question good enough:
easy way is to put separate batteries to run at 16v in you trucnk and keep them separate.. Either then charge them with a batery charger for each compitition and between runs, or get a 16v alternator,( Iraggi makes some good nice priced ones) but if you do upgrade your alternator to 16v you will need to use a stepdown box in order to run 14v to the rest of the electrical system.
Or you could just run the 16v completely separate from the rest of the electrical setup. either way have fun doing that i am about to do the same thing(hook up 16v for 2 soundstream 6500d's)
Iraggi alts: http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Alternator-and-Electronics
easy way is to put separate batteries to run at 16v in you trucnk and keep them separate.. Either then charge them with a batery charger for each compitition and between runs, or get a 16v alternator,( Iraggi makes some good nice priced ones) but if you do upgrade your alternator to 16v you will need to use a stepdown box in order to run 14v to the rest of the electrical system.
Or you could just run the 16v completely separate from the rest of the electrical setup. either way have fun doing that i am about to do the same thing(hook up 16v for 2 soundstream 6500d's)
Iraggi alts: http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Alternator-and-Electronics
Well I'll venture out to speak at you again about this, as i did in one of my two earlier posts.
Maybe the peanut gallery belly achers can leave us alone so we can talk about this without his insulting rants about manlyness and mirrors.
You can buy seperate battery cells from just about any battery supplier that carries a broad line of truck and car batteries. they come in 2.0 volt cells.
Just like the combined cells of your normal car battery.
You must then stack these to the correct votage and current ratings desired. I would suggest very large cables and brazed connections, or solid Nickle plated copper buss bar conductors, NOT STEEL.
Steel has high carbon content and therefore has very POOR electrical performance.
As for charging this setup: Well the stabilizers as I mentioned earlier can be used to also charge your stack at the higher than nornal voltage rate.
but a seperate alternator charging scheme is more efficient and much cheaper to deal with.
Battery's and sealed up spaces like trunks don't go together well. Batteries must be vented to the outside of the vehicle or your trunk will turn a beautiful shade of green and puke brown from corrosion.
I have seen a whole PG install corroded in just 4 months because of one marine gel cell in the trunk of a VW. I freaked when i saw it.
I have almost 40 years in this business, so trust me or not, I have just about seen it all.
I have seen a hydraulic motor driven off of a hydraulic pump powered by a single battery drive 5 alternators to speed to generate 1500 amperes for a show car.
I have also seen the pics of the old Pioneer truck that burst into flames, ( not a pretty sight) Looks just like your pics of all those amps and batteries, only burned to crisp.
Anybody here have a background in power distribution systems, please see the link below:
Now this is POWER.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXiOQCRiSp0
Oh If anyone has issue with my attempts to share information please PM me directly, I would prefer to communicate it directly between ourselves. Please allow me a moment to flex,,, aahhh ... not thats better I'm all flexed up and have no one to choke !!
If I have been negative in this or any other post about SPL, well after 37 years in the business, maybe I earned the right to speak my mind, and to ask those very pointed question that might just stop and make YOU 'THINK"
The average car battery is honestly rated at a mear 71 amp hours. There are Super cells available if you have the bucks for them, Please see the latest Lithium Ion batteries for Electric cars (made in China).
I earnestly believe the current SPL culture is almost completely developed around current commercial technologies availible from the local car stereo outlet and the Exide battery company., and Bat Stat Caps.
If someone actually brought forth some really new technology in this field it might actually become more interesting, But I'm sure it would break some rule for some judge somewhere .
I remember a 100 watt car that used to win all the shows, and nobody could figure out how he was hitting 148 DB's on 100 watts... He did this for 2 yaers, Until they found the air tube plumbed to his bass enclosure that puffed air against the microphone diaphragm with every hard bass drum hit....Funny guy hey?? lol lol lol 2 years ??? must be stupid judges I figure...
Question for all you Engineers out there posting in this post. HOW do you measure the SPL of a 20 hertz sinewave at any power level inside the cab of a vehicle say 1 meter deep, when phyically it takes 32 feet for the wave to form completely ????
Or are we just measuring air flow against a microphone diaphram at 1 meter from a wall of cones pumping air blasts in a comfined space, not much different than that of a port on a bass enclosure, don't you think???
Just a thought or two, perhaps to make you THINK
I actually believe I could calculate the Sound pressure by just doing the math of the cab cavity, and the cone square area, with total X-max of the cones at sea level with standard barametric air pressure, and of course 70 degrees F temperature, versus the air movement velocity, as influenced by frequency and volume... Hummm...
Oh, and what do I do for a living,,, well I restore amplifiers for a living, even the 2 to 5 kilo-watt ones, and I have supported two different show cars in my short time in the business, of just under 4 decades.
Lots of trophies, in their homes.
Now if someone has become offended by my disposition, and or my intensity of information exchanged here in this post, well please go blow yourself, in the mirror so it will do you some good
Maybe the peanut gallery belly achers can leave us alone so we can talk about this without his insulting rants about manlyness and mirrors.
You can buy seperate battery cells from just about any battery supplier that carries a broad line of truck and car batteries. they come in 2.0 volt cells.
Just like the combined cells of your normal car battery.
You must then stack these to the correct votage and current ratings desired. I would suggest very large cables and brazed connections, or solid Nickle plated copper buss bar conductors, NOT STEEL.
Steel has high carbon content and therefore has very POOR electrical performance.
As for charging this setup: Well the stabilizers as I mentioned earlier can be used to also charge your stack at the higher than nornal voltage rate.
but a seperate alternator charging scheme is more efficient and much cheaper to deal with.
Battery's and sealed up spaces like trunks don't go together well. Batteries must be vented to the outside of the vehicle or your trunk will turn a beautiful shade of green and puke brown from corrosion.
I have seen a whole PG install corroded in just 4 months because of one marine gel cell in the trunk of a VW. I freaked when i saw it.
I have almost 40 years in this business, so trust me or not, I have just about seen it all.
I have seen a hydraulic motor driven off of a hydraulic pump powered by a single battery drive 5 alternators to speed to generate 1500 amperes for a show car.
I have also seen the pics of the old Pioneer truck that burst into flames, ( not a pretty sight) Looks just like your pics of all those amps and batteries, only burned to crisp.
Anybody here have a background in power distribution systems, please see the link below:
Now this is POWER.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXiOQCRiSp0
Oh If anyone has issue with my attempts to share information please PM me directly, I would prefer to communicate it directly between ourselves. Please allow me a moment to flex,,, aahhh ... not thats better I'm all flexed up and have no one to choke !!
If I have been negative in this or any other post about SPL, well after 37 years in the business, maybe I earned the right to speak my mind, and to ask those very pointed question that might just stop and make YOU 'THINK"
The average car battery is honestly rated at a mear 71 amp hours. There are Super cells available if you have the bucks for them, Please see the latest Lithium Ion batteries for Electric cars (made in China).
I earnestly believe the current SPL culture is almost completely developed around current commercial technologies availible from the local car stereo outlet and the Exide battery company., and Bat Stat Caps.
If someone actually brought forth some really new technology in this field it might actually become more interesting, But I'm sure it would break some rule for some judge somewhere .
I remember a 100 watt car that used to win all the shows, and nobody could figure out how he was hitting 148 DB's on 100 watts... He did this for 2 yaers, Until they found the air tube plumbed to his bass enclosure that puffed air against the microphone diaphragm with every hard bass drum hit....Funny guy hey?? lol lol lol 2 years ??? must be stupid judges I figure...
Question for all you Engineers out there posting in this post. HOW do you measure the SPL of a 20 hertz sinewave at any power level inside the cab of a vehicle say 1 meter deep, when phyically it takes 32 feet for the wave to form completely ????
Or are we just measuring air flow against a microphone diaphram at 1 meter from a wall of cones pumping air blasts in a comfined space, not much different than that of a port on a bass enclosure, don't you think???
Just a thought or two, perhaps to make you THINK
I actually believe I could calculate the Sound pressure by just doing the math of the cab cavity, and the cone square area, with total X-max of the cones at sea level with standard barametric air pressure, and of course 70 degrees F temperature, versus the air movement velocity, as influenced by frequency and volume... Hummm...
Oh, and what do I do for a living,,, well I restore amplifiers for a living, even the 2 to 5 kilo-watt ones, and I have supported two different show cars in my short time in the business, of just under 4 decades.
Lots of trophies, in their homes.Now if someone has become offended by my disposition, and or my intensity of information exchanged here in this post, well please go blow yourself, in the mirror so it will do you some good
Jus to make things clear:
That kind of amplifiers are intended for SPL contests and can provide the rated power but only for a very limited period of time before the thermal protection kicks in (or something burns or explodes).
An amplifier producing 7KW continuous with 80% efficiency will be dissipating (7000/.8)-7000=1750 watts in its heatsink and internals, while the usual heatsinks can't handle much more than 100W long term without fans (and even 10W of losses in the windings are usually enough to burn one of those PSU toroids).
1000W into 4 ohms is probably the highest continuous rating for safe long term use.
In general, very little show cars can handle long show periods -say 5 hours- at full volume (just before distortion appears) without damaging any piece of equipment or overheating amplifiers (except the ones prepared by really crazy people). BTW: I find long and good-sounding rave-like shows more exciting than SPL.
That kind of amplifiers are intended for SPL contests and can provide the rated power but only for a very limited period of time before the thermal protection kicks in (or something burns or explodes).
An amplifier producing 7KW continuous with 80% efficiency will be dissipating (7000/.8)-7000=1750 watts in its heatsink and internals, while the usual heatsinks can't handle much more than 100W long term without fans (and even 10W of losses in the windings are usually enough to burn one of those PSU toroids).
1000W into 4 ohms is probably the highest continuous rating for safe long term use.
In general, very little show cars can handle long show periods -say 5 hours- at full volume (just before distortion appears) without damaging any piece of equipment or overheating amplifiers (except the ones prepared by really crazy people). BTW: I find long and good-sounding rave-like shows more exciting than SPL.
this one is for eva....
i think your equation is off a little. yes (7000/.8)-7000=1750 but just from looking at it, it looks wrong tell me if i am am wrong on this one but shouldnt it be somethign like: (.8*7000)=5600. wouldnt this be 80% efficiency? i would think the formula would be different and correct be if i am wrong. But if you look at your equation for 50%....(7000/.5)-7000= 7000 which would mean at 50% efficiency is perfect????? idk you tell me.
Also for example my amp at 6500 watts which says it is a 89% efficiency, http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Ground_Zero_GZPA_1.6000D/
(idk if that is correct) how do you measure it at 14 and 16 volts do you do the math for each or????????
EDIT:
Oh wait isnt efficiency actually refering to the draw off amps(mine has 465 amp draw) in relation to how much power it puts out? as to how much power is lost.
i think your equation is off a little. yes (7000/.8)-7000=1750 but just from looking at it, it looks wrong tell me if i am am wrong on this one but shouldnt it be somethign like: (.8*7000)=5600. wouldnt this be 80% efficiency? i would think the formula would be different and correct be if i am wrong. But if you look at your equation for 50%....(7000/.5)-7000= 7000 which would mean at 50% efficiency is perfect????? idk you tell me.
Also for example my amp at 6500 watts which says it is a 89% efficiency, http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Ground_Zero_GZPA_1.6000D/
(idk if that is correct) how do you measure it at 14 and 16 volts do you do the math for each or????????
EDIT:
Oh wait isnt efficiency actually refering to the draw off amps(mine has 465 amp draw) in relation to how much power it puts out? as to how much power is lost.
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